[BradsG20]

Hey everyone I'm new to the G20 world and to these boards but I've browsed quiet a bit and searched for information. (Im not a new guy in car forums, very active on others so I know how annoying questions can be if a search easily answers them ). The cars a 2000 G20 Touring, 5sp. Completely stock.

So Im looking for some advise. My car was throwing Cat Flow Fault code before (but ran great), and then last week through MAF sensor code and wouldnt rev past 2100 rpm. The MAF was replaced but it wasnt an OEM part, it was a Standard Motorsports Part - still not a cheap $80 piece (was like $250 but that was before I read up on here about OEM MAF being 'required') but not OEM. My wires, plugs, cap and rotor just arrived today and I will install them tonight. But I've read the non-OEM MAF seem to not agree with these computers so I got a price from Travis for an OEM part.

Anyways my question is, if the car is hesitating at various RPM, stalls at idle occasionally (mainly when its cold and hasnt warmed up yet) does this sound like a faulty MAF / MAF not agreeing with the computer issue? It runs like a POS but run, and throws no codes. I will put on the new cap/rotor/wires/plugs tonight and if that doesnt work I'll reset the ecu. But after that Im leaning towards buying an OEM MAF because Im thinking it may be the issue.

PS. Does this part number sound right for the OEM MAF.. 226802Y001 or 22680AD201. The Infiniti dealer in Toronto quoted me $633 for this part just want to confirm he looked up the right part.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Brad

 

[BradsG20]

Replaced wires/plugs/cap/rotor. Still have the same hesitation at random RPM in all gears. Im really leaning towards buying that OEM MAF.

I think Im going to try and reset the ECU now and see if that helps. I've read you turn the 'screw head' near the back of the ECU clockwise wait 2 seconds then turn counterclockwise and that will reset it. I also checked for vac leaks and cracks in the intake with no luck, smoke test showed nothing either. Would a the MAF being changed need an ECU reset/would the ECU need to 'learn' this MAF? I know for the IACV that is the case but is it the same for MAFs?

Im not new to trouble shooting cars, this one is just stumping me. Im working on boosting my other car and bought this as winter beater/dd as I boost the my other car but this issue is throwing me for loops. A quality mass air flow SHOULD work so Im lost as to why it wouldnt read properly if that is even the issue. Maybe theres something else Im missing on the engines/cars...

I'll likely go reset the ECU now and see whats up. Any advice is welcome.

EDIT: I 'reset' the ECU by leaving the neg battery cable unhooked for a couple hours with no changes to the driveability of the car. I know this isnt the proper way to reset it but since the '00+ ECUs dont have the screw to turn, its best I could do.

 

[z32 fairlady]

I'm getting the same issue now. No lights/codes just a rough idle and bucking as I'm driving. The car is barely driven anymore because I no longer commute as much as I used to.

EDIT: Found this post...

http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread...s-2001-g20-idle-and-stall-problem-help-please

 

[bahamassr20]

if you need to test a bad maf disconnect it and start the car. if the car idles better with maf disconneted than plug up there is your problem

 

[z32 fairlady]

I drove the car Wednesday night. CEL finally came on. Thursday morning I started it up to take to my local parts store to get read it came off. Took it anyway, hooked it up. Got a speed sensor error and misfire on cylinder 3. Plugs purchased and wires on order from Perry Infiniti.

 

[ENO]

typically stalling is an issue with that stupid thing on the intake mani....the name is escaping me at the moment

 

[BradsG20]

So the stalling seems to have stopped - maybe because the weather has gotten colder? It only ever stalled on initial start up but only if you didnt rev it up. Im thinking with the colder weather causing the engine to rev higher at initial startup has caused this to vanish. So if the engine has been sitting long enough, like over night, to be completely cold it will cold idle fine. But as soon as it warms up a bit it likes to stall at idle.

But it still bucks at random RPM in all the gears when driving and has a huge lack of power that randomly comes and goes. The garage has another MAF on order because we are thinking this MAF may be faulty, will try that and see if it makes a difference. Will also try the EGR blockoff and IACV hose bypass described in that link above.

 

[BradsG20]

Soooooo.... My buddy at the garage called his supplier for Mass Air Flows, then he called the manufacturer, and apparently they've been having tons of problems with these lately. In the mean time I had a OEM MAF shipped up from Cali thanks to Travis - Thank you sir.

And put the OEM MAF on, sent the Standard Motorsports part back, and BAM PROBLEM SOLVED! The car has never ran this well since I've owned it - about 6 months.

 

[DMSentra]

Gnet knows aftermarket mafs are no bueno.

 

[JDM_Ej]

Gnet knows aftermarket mafs are no bueno.

My MAF died suddenly back in February I think. Limped home with the sensor unplugged and replaced it with an AutoZone Remanufactured unit. I bought only because it was urgent. It's still working well today. Like I said though, this is a reman unit, not a new aftermarket unit.

Oem is always the way to go if you can spend the $$$$. :thumbsup: for Travis.

 

[DMSentra]

Prob wont start tomoorow...

 

[JDM_Ej]

Prob wont start tomoorow...

THANKS

lol