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Looking good copy cat... err I mean buddy :) Ha ha J/K! That purple power sure does work wonders! Does the A/C bracket work for the stock P10 A/C compressor? I had to swap over the DE A/C bracket over to my VE, because the P11 VE bracket won't work. Jealous on all the AL brackets, all of mine are still steel. My P11 PS pump is still AL though.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
I love lurking this thread. Its really cool that your doing all of this work, and posting all of the progress. After about a decade of use, I've noticed that resealing the bottom oil pans/timing cover, new front main seal, timing chain, and injector flow testing/cleaning are about the best refreshes you can do to an SR20 engine. They stop leaking oil, and idle/run a hell of a lot smoother.

It will be nice to see where you get this car in a few more months, it is really coming along.
Thanks! Bit by Bit. I hope within a couple months I'll get it running. I keep 'adding' things to my list so it keeps adding time :)
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Looking good copy cat... err I mean buddy :) Ha ha J/K! That purple power sure does work wonders! Does the A/C bracket work for the stock P10 A/C compressor? I had to swap over the DE A/C bracket over to my VE, because the P11 VE bracket won't work. Jealous on all the AL brackets, all of mine are still steel. My P11 PS pump is still AL though.
As copy cats usually go, mine isn't nearly as good looking as yours...when I saw yours in person I remember the block looked new!
I'll check out the A/C bracket for you tomorrow. I think I found another part that I can change to AL, although its chassis side. I'll probably find out this weekend and post results.
 

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As copy cats usually go, mine isn't nearly as good looking as yours...when I saw yours in person I remember the block looked new!
I'll check out the A/C bracket for you tomorrow. I think I found another part that I can change to AL, although its chassis side. I'll probably find out this weekend and post results.
Ha ha, there are things that you're doing that look better than mine too. I think both will look super nice when all finished up! A dual engine bay picture would be sweet after both are done :)
 

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Discussion Starter #207
I checked out the P10 bracket vs the 20v AL bracket. No dice on getting the P10 compressor to mount to it. You'd have to use the 20v compressor with the AL bracket. Which also means you have to have custom A/C lines made. 20v has the low pressure line on the back end and the high pressure side near the pulley. Basically backwards from the standard P10 compressor. I remember someone using the 20v on their car...maybe a P11? So using P11 A/C line might make it a drop in.
 

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Discussion Starter #211 (Edited)
11/18 ~ 11/23

Got working on the car. Got a lot done, but not a lot done.

I got to work on the power steering. Not in chronological order...although it seems like it.

Off went the fender


Then the bumper


Then the ABS pump and not pictured, but the washer reservoir, brake lines and master cylinder.


Headlight, vapor canister, heater hoses, etc.


P/S system... just missing the rack, pump and the rubber high pressure line. About the only thing I'm going to reuse in this photo is the reservoir.


I decided to mount the P/S cooler up under the windshield cowl. Originally, I was going to plumb it in the wheel well but then realized there is not much real estate in there other than the bumper area.



I bent up some aluminum stock to make brackets so it manages to hover just above the wiper linkage without hitting. The -6an hose I'm using is routed/tucked in such a way that it does not interfere with the linkage at all, but clearance is tight! The hose than runs over the center wiper post bracket needs some insulation to prevent chafing, but the other line has adel clamps to keep it from chafing. You can see the first bulkhead fitting coming out the firewall. This would be the return line from the rack. The 2nd bulkhead would also come out the firewall on the other side of the wiper motor.

The picture is dark, but you can see the 2nd bulkhead in the shadow. It is a pain to tighten down the AN fittings, but doable. The hole you see there is where the hose will route into the well wheel to connect back up to the reservoir. On the AN hose that routes here will have a captive rubber grommet to prevent chafing of that hole and more adel clamps.


The last length of line will run up until the 'upper' frame along the wheel arch....much like the positive cable you see in the 1st photo, but on the back side of it. I need to remove the shock and check the suspension motion to make sure it won't hit the new P/S return.

One thing about custom stuff and particularly when working on the chassis is that you can't undo things. The photo below is an example. The big hole below the wiper post is my first attempt at mounting the bulkhead fitting. wiper linkage smashed right into it lol. So now I need to figure out what to do with this hole.


After getting everything mocked, I disassembled everything and changed the wiper linkage/transmission. The center post on mine was really worn out and was moving vertically in addition to axially.

When I took off the fender I did some weight reduction....lol


Took the condenser out so I could replace it. Finally got around to replacing it. This damage occurred before I owned the car, front end collision. The hood, grille were aftermarket and the original bumper had a lot of filler to fix cracks. I changed those parts a while back now.


Without the P/S lines and ABS components, it is going to make cleaning the engine bay a breeze! (This picture still has the P/S parts still)


Found some rust and fixed it... All the new holes I made I also used QN0 touch paint to help prevent future rust.


Car just before I put the bumper, light and fender back on and pushed it back outside.


I did some work on the 20v as well. I remounted the P/S pump and fitted the new belt I got, 34" worked well. Glass beaded the alternator brackets and painted the lower cast iron one (masked off keys areas for grounding). Little odds and ends brackets. Mock installed the fuel rail and decided to change the engine side fuel connections to AN and decided to change the FPR from the NISMO one to a Tomei one.


Brought to you by....(tastes like gummy bears)
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Also powder coated the alternator adjustment, radiator, vapor canister and P/S cooler brackets, just waiting for install :)

 

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Discussion Starter #213
Yay!



$99 each at nissanraceshop.com Center panel and gaskets not included. If you can find the coupon code its an additional $10 off (shows up in their ads). I can't remember the code for the life of me right now though...nrsroll5 or something like that.
 

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any more details on your cooler setup?

i cut my little cooler pipe thing off in the front as well & figured i could run without it...but then though might as well as add a cooler.

curious about how your connecting the rubber from the res to it...push lock?
 

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Discussion Starter #216
any more details on your cooler setup?

i cut my little cooler pipe thing off in the front as well & figured i could run without it...but then though might as well as add a cooler.

curious about how your connecting the rubber from the res to it...push lock?
The reservoir will need to be modified. Originally I was going to try to use a clamp, but the tube OD is just too big for 6an to fit comfortably. I don't have it yet, but I bought a weld-in 6an bung and will weld it on the bottom and seal off the original side return. Reason why the bottom is because where the return is connected, there isn't enough room for the AN fittings ( it would run into the relay box). The cooler itself is the smallest Derale I could find IIRC about 9" it also is the cheapest part about $30. Derale also sells non AN versions too. This is all return stuff so the AN stuff is overkill. Regular pressure hose & clamps should work fine. The stainless braid is what I had laying around so I used it otherwise I would have ordered braid-less AN hose (the fuel line will be like this).

I was contemplating to go without the cooler lines too as a lot of turbo guys remove them without ill effects it seems. I figured since Nissan spent the time & money to loop the return in front of the radiator there was a reason (P/S pump & fluid longevity?). What you could do is....the earlier B13 SE-Rs had a small frame mount P/S cooler. It was single row and about 6-9" long. If you retrofitted that it would make a for a simplified system, but dunno how it would work with our ABS lines though.

The fuel line stuff will be push lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #217 (Edited)
A/C Clutch Bearing came in yesterday. The bearing from this 20v compressor is the same dimension as the P10/B13 ones and I'm assuming the P11/B15 too. The only difference I noticed that Nissan changed bearing suppliers. The 20v had Nachi and the P10 one had a NTN or NSK bearing, can't remember which. So I replaced the clutch bearing with Nachi bearing # 35BG05S16G-2DL (on the box). But on the bearing itself it has a slightly different # btw so don't freak if you buy it. The number on the bearing matched the number that came out of the compressor. Just a heads up.

Assembled....
 

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Discussion Starter #218
Last couple days of work outcome....clean up is a bitch. Not obvious in the photo, but P11 clutch pedal is installed that is a biatch too.


Think this is the farthest I'm going to teardown the engine bay...only a handful of stuff left on.
 

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bAH!

no abs here (anymore)

post up some shots of you p11 pedal.

i could not figure out if it mounted inside or out, & got like 100 different people saying its inside, no its outside..

I wound up making a bracket (cut up the p10 cable one) & made a gasket, i think my pedal is mounted on the inside...ill double check tonight.
 
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