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Diluted Purple power is what I used and elbow grease. Windex/tar remover would have worked wonders too but I didnt have any on hand at the time.
Ryan's P10 revival project thread
221 - 240 of 257 Posts
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1,525 Posts
Will do momentarily. Master cyl in installed inside the cabin. I sure hope your pedal is mounted on the inside! ha
Anyway, according to FAST they show the gasket installing on the front of the Master cylinder....which would also indicate that the cylinder is supposed to be installed on the cabin side. However, I've seen installs with it outside so I assume it works the other way around too.
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1,525 Posts
11/24 - 12/1
Work has progressed on the car, it is slowly getting closer to its goal....The car didn't get my undivided attention as I had to work on a 22RE so whenever I had a chance to do something I did it, but it usually something little and easy or whatever came to mind at the time hence small things here and there.
First thing I noticed was that there was a lot of water pooled up in this area, so I drilled and painted a drain.
Parts from Summit showed up, decided I'd attach the P/S High pressure line AN adapter. M16x1.5 to -6AN.
Started working on the 20v fuel rail using these...
I got them mounted on, but the fuel input side needed the bolt slots filed a bit more for the bolts to fit. The return side was a breeze except I felt it could use some longer screws/bolts and replacement them. About all the engine related stuff I did.
I painted a bad part of the engine bay, Half assed, I know. I want to replace the lower radiator support, 6speed swap, etc later on so I figured I would repaint the bay at that time and just cover up this stained area quickly....you can see here how tinted/stained/yellowed the original paint has become.
Reason why the lower support will eventually be replaced. Its bowed in the middle. (Also because of stripped out cross member bolts)
P11 clutch pedal install, is easy but tough because of the lack of space. The P11 pedal is bigger than the P10
You'll notice just like the P10, the pedal only has 1 stud. In the P10's case the other stud is on the cable-firewall plate. I only assume the other stud is on the firewall in the P11. I didn't pull the pedal myself so I dunno. I was originally going to use a nut and bolt, but then realized that once the brake booster is in there how difficult it would be to remove a nut/bolt combination, so I decided to have a bolt (allen bolt from the TB works great) tacked to the firewall. Worked good except the tack looks like it has warts. You'll notice in the photos above that the upper bolting flange is in a different location between the two. I made an "L" bracket out of some steel we had here and attached it to the side of the P11 pedal to use the P10 bolt hole. Sorry no pics for this stage...
Because the pedal has more 'depth' to it, when installing the pedal you have to smash against the ducting for the driver side HVAC vent. Its doubly difficult when you add a stud like I did on the firewall. In addition you need to remove the spacer tacked on the firewall and since the hole in the firewall on a P10 is round, you have to grind/file/reshape the firewall a bit (the P11 clutch master is oval/twinkie shaped).
Preparing to weld (this is before cleaning BTW)
Installed...don't mind the ugly welding....apparently grounding the welder was an initial issue which caused the ugliness. Painted the area quickly and then moving on...
I had bought a Flex-a-lite 392, which is a 12" pusher/puller fan and installed in on the A/C condenser (which I replaced from my bent up one). It is a tight squeeze, but you can fit this 12" fan as a pusher with the stock hood latch support. Things to overcome....
1) Airbag front crash sensor (93.5+ cars only). This need to have 7/8" or 1" spacers installed, along with, of course, longer bolts. Otherwise it will hit the fan. Horrible picture, but here is the sensor spaced out and the grille installed.
2) Because of the spacing of the sensor, the back of the grille may need some notching to keep it from rubbing the airbag sensor.
3) The hood latch support will need to be ground down as so...
4) The upper core support where the hood latch attached needs to be bent slightly.
and viola! it will fit in there snuggly.
If you don't want to grind down the hood latch support, you can make a different one like a lot of guys do when turbo'd..
The bottom part of the aluminum bracket bolts on to the bumper support, well for support.
The funny part about all of this is that with this particular fan, which is really slim, I probably could have left the factory P/S cooling lines and it would have fit, perhaps with a little tweaking. So much for searching/researching beforehand. Any way.
One of the last things I did was make one of the remaining P/S return lines. I do believe it will be out of the way and won't rub anything to death.
FYI - I went through a couple sets of metric adapters to figure out what would work the best on our rack and although expensive ($20 each), the flaming river brand ones work the best. The high pressure side is perfect from what i could tell, threads in with threads to spare. The return side was not deep enough (as with the other brands), but the FR had more shank left to add more threads so that is what I did. The return thread is M16x1.5 and high side is M14x1.5 BTW. It looks like it gave me just enough more that the oring is seated in the rack properly. Only the first start up will tell. Sorry no pics for this part either.
Other than the high side, I need to finish modifying the reservoir and then connect the last hose to complete the circuit.
Need to order some more stuff as I forgot to order the clutch line stuff and some fuel stuff. Unfortunately the next two weeks will have only minor updates as I need to work on an A32 next weekend and then probably work on SkidMark (DL0 car I sold) the following weekend. So maybe the next time I have a major update will be the weekend before Christmas and over Christmas break.
Work has progressed on the car, it is slowly getting closer to its goal....The car didn't get my undivided attention as I had to work on a 22RE so whenever I had a chance to do something I did it, but it usually something little and easy or whatever came to mind at the time hence small things here and there.
First thing I noticed was that there was a lot of water pooled up in this area, so I drilled and painted a drain.
Parts from Summit showed up, decided I'd attach the P/S High pressure line AN adapter. M16x1.5 to -6AN.
Started working on the 20v fuel rail using these...
I got them mounted on, but the fuel input side needed the bolt slots filed a bit more for the bolts to fit. The return side was a breeze except I felt it could use some longer screws/bolts and replacement them. About all the engine related stuff I did.
I painted a bad part of the engine bay, Half assed, I know. I want to replace the lower radiator support, 6speed swap, etc later on so I figured I would repaint the bay at that time and just cover up this stained area quickly....you can see here how tinted/stained/yellowed the original paint has become.
Reason why the lower support will eventually be replaced. Its bowed in the middle. (Also because of stripped out cross member bolts)
P11 clutch pedal install, is easy but tough because of the lack of space. The P11 pedal is bigger than the P10
You'll notice just like the P10, the pedal only has 1 stud. In the P10's case the other stud is on the cable-firewall plate. I only assume the other stud is on the firewall in the P11. I didn't pull the pedal myself so I dunno. I was originally going to use a nut and bolt, but then realized that once the brake booster is in there how difficult it would be to remove a nut/bolt combination, so I decided to have a bolt (allen bolt from the TB works great) tacked to the firewall. Worked good except the tack looks like it has warts. You'll notice in the photos above that the upper bolting flange is in a different location between the two. I made an "L" bracket out of some steel we had here and attached it to the side of the P11 pedal to use the P10 bolt hole. Sorry no pics for this stage...
Because the pedal has more 'depth' to it, when installing the pedal you have to smash against the ducting for the driver side HVAC vent. Its doubly difficult when you add a stud like I did on the firewall. In addition you need to remove the spacer tacked on the firewall and since the hole in the firewall on a P10 is round, you have to grind/file/reshape the firewall a bit (the P11 clutch master is oval/twinkie shaped).
Preparing to weld (this is before cleaning BTW)
Installed...don't mind the ugly welding....apparently grounding the welder was an initial issue which caused the ugliness. Painted the area quickly and then moving on...
I had bought a Flex-a-lite 392, which is a 12" pusher/puller fan and installed in on the A/C condenser (which I replaced from my bent up one). It is a tight squeeze, but you can fit this 12" fan as a pusher with the stock hood latch support. Things to overcome....
1) Airbag front crash sensor (93.5+ cars only). This need to have 7/8" or 1" spacers installed, along with, of course, longer bolts. Otherwise it will hit the fan. Horrible picture, but here is the sensor spaced out and the grille installed.
2) Because of the spacing of the sensor, the back of the grille may need some notching to keep it from rubbing the airbag sensor.
3) The hood latch support will need to be ground down as so...
4) The upper core support where the hood latch attached needs to be bent slightly.
and viola! it will fit in there snuggly.
If you don't want to grind down the hood latch support, you can make a different one like a lot of guys do when turbo'd..
The bottom part of the aluminum bracket bolts on to the bumper support, well for support.
The funny part about all of this is that with this particular fan, which is really slim, I probably could have left the factory P/S cooling lines and it would have fit, perhaps with a little tweaking. So much for searching/researching beforehand. Any way.
One of the last things I did was make one of the remaining P/S return lines. I do believe it will be out of the way and won't rub anything to death.
FYI - I went through a couple sets of metric adapters to figure out what would work the best on our rack and although expensive ($20 each), the flaming river brand ones work the best. The high pressure side is perfect from what i could tell, threads in with threads to spare. The return side was not deep enough (as with the other brands), but the FR had more shank left to add more threads so that is what I did. The return thread is M16x1.5 and high side is M14x1.5 BTW. It looks like it gave me just enough more that the oring is seated in the rack properly. Only the first start up will tell. Sorry no pics for this part either.
Other than the high side, I need to finish modifying the reservoir and then connect the last hose to complete the circuit.
Need to order some more stuff as I forgot to order the clutch line stuff and some fuel stuff. Unfortunately the next two weeks will have only minor updates as I need to work on an A32 next weekend and then probably work on SkidMark (DL0 car I sold) the following weekend. So maybe the next time I have a major update will be the weekend before Christmas and over Christmas break.
Joined
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1,525 Posts
this is what i did for that stud....took the p10 stock cable piece & cut it up
worked great...
![]()
did you have to open the hole in the FW a bit to fit the MC? i did a little
That was a good idea! Didn't think of it, much cleaner than mine. I did open up the hole for the P11 MC.
BTW the P11 reservoir and rubber hose, which was available from the dealer up to somewhat recently is now discontinued...
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1,525 Posts
Thanks for the reminder
Joined
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1,525 Posts
Thanks!
Joined
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1,525 Posts
12/1 ~ 1/17
I have done nothing to this car.
The motor itself is pretty much ready, just need to install the plenum that Charles graciously modified for me and add the IACV. All I need really to finish the wiring, which isn't much if I just want it to run the engine (add VVL solenoid wiring and lengthen so wiring, change Knock and coolant sensor clips)...which I am tempted to do. At the same time I want to tuck the harness a bit and clean it up...new sheathing, tape, rerouting, bulkhead connector, etc. But when it comes to wiring I am lazy, because I don't care for it much.
Here is a few things I need to do.
1) Wiring
2) Install Plenum, IACV
3) Make a clutch line
4) Make P/S high pressure line
5) Reinstall the brake lines, ABS
6) install engine
7) Change the knuckles out for the 5 lug
In the meantime, I am also pondering on whether or not skip the 5 speed and change to 6 speed. I think I'll end up with the 6 speed swap at a later date, but its at the back of my mind. I need a flywheel, shifter and clutch for that to happen, so more $$$.
Having another p10 is also a distraction
I have done nothing to this car.
The motor itself is pretty much ready, just need to install the plenum that Charles graciously modified for me and add the IACV. All I need really to finish the wiring, which isn't much if I just want it to run the engine (add VVL solenoid wiring and lengthen so wiring, change Knock and coolant sensor clips)...which I am tempted to do. At the same time I want to tuck the harness a bit and clean it up...new sheathing, tape, rerouting, bulkhead connector, etc. But when it comes to wiring I am lazy, because I don't care for it much.
Here is a few things I need to do.
1) Wiring
2) Install Plenum, IACV
3) Make a clutch line
4) Make P/S high pressure line
5) Reinstall the brake lines, ABS
6) install engine
7) Change the knuckles out for the 5 lug
In the meantime, I am also pondering on whether or not skip the 5 speed and change to 6 speed. I think I'll end up with the 6 speed swap at a later date, but its at the back of my mind. I need a flywheel, shifter and clutch for that to happen, so more $$$.
Having another p10 is also a distraction
Joined
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3,202 Posts
mmm, weld porn.Yay! I got my plenum back and modified for the N1 TB (installed). Thank you Charles!!
Joined
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1,525 Posts
Well, nothing has really progress here.
I don't see myself working on this car for a little while as I concentrate on the black car. I did install/test fit the 20v manifold from Charles and since reinstalled a VE pulley I yoinked from it for the black car. Thats about it. For the time being unfortunately, it will be a temporary parts car for the KH3 car....The AGX shocks/struts, front knuckles, koyo radiator and some miscellaneous parts will donate itself to the KH3 mobile. All to be replaced later on of course.
Once I get the KH3 car WCC ready and nothing significant happens (as in breaks), I will move back into working on this one. In the meantime, I did decide that I will go ahead and replace the lower part of the radiator support (bent and stripped) and then repaint the engine bay, being that it has been part for this long and I don't see myself doing this level of tear down and cleaning again in the near future.
I am pretty confident that I will get back to working on this car this year
I don't see myself working on this car for a little while as I concentrate on the black car. I did install/test fit the 20v manifold from Charles and since reinstalled a VE pulley I yoinked from it for the black car. Thats about it. For the time being unfortunately, it will be a temporary parts car for the KH3 car....The AGX shocks/struts, front knuckles, koyo radiator and some miscellaneous parts will donate itself to the KH3 mobile. All to be replaced later on of course.
Once I get the KH3 car WCC ready and nothing significant happens (as in breaks), I will move back into working on this one. In the meantime, I did decide that I will go ahead and replace the lower part of the radiator support (bent and stripped) and then repaint the engine bay, being that it has been part for this long and I don't see myself doing this level of tear down and cleaning again in the near future.
I am pretty confident that I will get back to working on this car this year
Joined
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1,525 Posts
Easter, 4/5
Haven't work on this car, but today I found an opportunity to pick up some parts for it.
This past week a Spec V showed up in one of the pull a parts, so I went up there today to pull some parts from it.
I haven't had much success in sourcing a P12 shifter, so I picked up the Spec V shifter/cable assembly. Since the P12 transmissions I have are not LSD, I picked up the trans as well in addition to the transmission to frame mount.
I also heard recently from Anthony, aka bootiesan, that the spec v cross member would work with some modification. So I picked that up as well in case I want to use that too.
After Lynnwood, I went up to Lake Stephens and picked up an oem wood grain steering wheel from a 99 I30 Limited. I think it would match the motif with this car as it has the '96 G20 wood grain
Just more parts to add to the pile for this car.
Happy 21st Birthday (car was manufactured 4/94)!
Haven't work on this car, but today I found an opportunity to pick up some parts for it.
This past week a Spec V showed up in one of the pull a parts, so I went up there today to pull some parts from it.
I haven't had much success in sourcing a P12 shifter, so I picked up the Spec V shifter/cable assembly. Since the P12 transmissions I have are not LSD, I picked up the trans as well in addition to the transmission to frame mount.
I also heard recently from Anthony, aka bootiesan, that the spec v cross member would work with some modification. So I picked that up as well in case I want to use that too.
After Lynnwood, I went up to Lake Stephens and picked up an oem wood grain steering wheel from a 99 I30 Limited. I think it would match the motif with this car as it has the '96 G20 wood grain
Just more parts to add to the pile for this car.
Happy 21st Birthday (car was manufactured 4/94)!
221 - 240 of 257 Posts
