11/24 - 12/1
Work has progressed on the car, it is slowly getting closer to its goal....The car didn't get my undivided attention as I had to work on a 22RE so whenever I had a chance to do something I did it, but it usually something little and easy or whatever came to mind at the time hence small things here and there.
First thing I noticed was that there was a lot of water pooled up in this area, so I drilled and painted a drain.
Parts from Summit showed up, decided I'd attach the P/S High pressure line AN adapter. M16x1.5 to -6AN.
Started working on the 20v fuel rail using these...
I got them mounted on, but the fuel input side needed the bolt slots filed a bit more for the bolts to fit. The return side was a breeze except I felt it could use some longer screws/bolts and replacement them. About all the engine related stuff I did.
I painted a bad part of the engine bay, Half assed, I know. I want to replace the lower radiator support, 6speed swap, etc later on so I figured I would repaint the bay at that time and just cover up this stained area quickly....you can see here how tinted/stained/yellowed the original paint has become.
Reason why the lower support will eventually be replaced. Its bowed in the middle. (Also because of stripped out cross member bolts)
P11 clutch pedal install, is easy but tough because of the lack of space. The P11 pedal is bigger than the P10
You'll notice just like the P10, the pedal only has 1 stud. In the P10's case the other stud is on the cable-firewall plate. I only assume the other stud is on the firewall in the P11. I didn't pull the pedal myself so I dunno. I was originally going to use a nut and bolt, but then realized that once the brake booster is in there how difficult it would be to remove a nut/bolt combination, so I decided to have a bolt (allen bolt from the TB works great) tacked to the firewall. Worked good except the tack looks like it has warts. You'll notice in the photos above that the upper bolting flange is in a different location between the two. I made an "L" bracket out of some steel we had here and attached it to the side of the P11 pedal to use the P10 bolt hole. Sorry no pics for this stage...
Because the pedal has more 'depth' to it, when installing the pedal you have to smash against the ducting for the driver side HVAC vent. Its doubly difficult when you add a stud like I did on the firewall. In addition you need to remove the spacer tacked on the firewall and since the hole in the firewall on a P10 is round, you have to grind/file/reshape the firewall a bit (the P11 clutch master is oval/twinkie shaped).
Preparing to weld (this is before cleaning BTW)
Installed...don't mind the ugly welding....apparently grounding the welder was an initial issue which caused the ugliness. Painted the area quickly and then moving on...
I had bought a Flex-a-lite 392, which is a 12" pusher/puller fan and installed in on the A/C condenser (which I replaced from my bent up one). It is a tight squeeze, but you can fit this 12" fan as a pusher with the stock hood latch support. Things to overcome....
1) Airbag front crash sensor (93.5+ cars only). This need to have 7/8" or 1" spacers installed, along with, of course, longer bolts. Otherwise it will hit the fan. Horrible picture, but here is the sensor spaced out and the grille installed.
2) Because of the spacing of the sensor, the back of the grille may need some notching to keep it from rubbing the airbag sensor.
3) The hood latch support will need to be ground down as so...

4) The upper core support where the hood latch attached needs to be bent slightly.
and viola! it will fit in there snuggly.
If you don't want to grind down the hood latch support, you can make a different one like a lot of guys do when turbo'd..
The bottom part of the aluminum bracket bolts on to the bumper support, well for support.
The funny part about all of this is that with this particular fan, which is really slim, I probably could have left the factory P/S cooling lines and it would have fit, perhaps with a little tweaking. So much for searching/researching beforehand. Any way.
One of the last things I did was make one of the remaining P/S return lines. I do believe it will be out of the way and won't rub anything to death.
FYI - I went through a couple sets of metric adapters to figure out what would work the best on our rack and although expensive ($20 each), the flaming river brand ones work the best. The high pressure side is perfect from what i could tell, threads in with threads to spare. The return side was not deep enough (as with the other brands), but the FR had more shank left to add more threads so that is what I did. The return thread is M16x1.5 and high side is M14x1.5 BTW. It looks like it gave me just enough more that the oring is seated in the rack properly. Only the first start up will tell. Sorry no pics for this part either.
Other than the high side, I need to finish modifying the reservoir and then connect the last hose to complete the circuit.
Need to order some more stuff as I forgot to order the clutch line stuff and some fuel stuff. Unfortunately the next two weeks will have only minor updates as I need to work on an A32 next weekend and then probably work on SkidMark (DL0 car I sold) the following weekend. So maybe the next time I have a major update will be the weekend before Christmas and over Christmas break.