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Discussion Starter #1
This has never happened before. Used to set it reasonably close to the middle to set idle.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
With my new VOM tach, I can see that I can't get it to go below 890 rpm. What gives??
 

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I don't think this is a vacuum leak either. I pinch the pcv hose, and the rpms dont raise.

I am just about fed up with this. Here I go to buy a brand spanking new AAC.
 

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Okay, you're not getting the thing into timing mode correctly, I don't think. Let me try to find the thread about this really quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
mattb said:
Your IAC may be dirty too. Clean it out.
That is when all the trouble started. This thing is super clean. Hope I didn't drop a spring. I am not having any luck with cleaning. In fact, all the cleaning is adding up to BIG dollars. I have worked with small parts for a number of years and find it difficult to believe that it is me who is messing this stuff up. Thanks for your thoughts though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thefultonhow said:
Okay, you're not getting the thing into timing mode correctly, I don't think. Let me try to find the thread about this really quickly.
It's in timing mode. Marks are steady and so is idle. Thanks for trying though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)

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I am right with you on this one. My screw is turned ALL the way in and I cant get my base idle lower then 870 in timing mode. My timing is set at 16. I do not understand. Its not always been like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
pauley01 said:
I am right with you on this one. My screw is turned ALL the way in and I cant get my base idle lower then 870 in timing mode. My timing is set at 16. I do not understand. Its not always been like that.
Heh, could this be the end to our sorrows then? Are you going to try it out? (removing the TPS before restarting) I pm'd the creator of that thread that the fulton mentioned and asked him if it helped. I can't try it today until I get out of work. Other than that its just buy another IACV.

I also bumped the old thread that thefulton mentioned.

Yep, 890 is the lowest it will go. I don't know if this would cause the warm idle drop I am talking about but certainly worth a shot.
 

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I am going to try it. My major problem is gas consumption. I have 1/4 tank of gas left and have only been 150 miles. I think my MAF is my main problem. While my car is idling like shit, I can pull the MAF plug and wham...problem is gone. It idles perfect. When I put the plug back on, it starts surging again. I have sprayed MAF cleaner on it multiple times and its not helping.

I hope I have diagnosed this right. Shitty gas mileage, running rich (black muffler tip) and terrible idle. I can rev up to 5K with no problems, so that does make me wonder about the MAF.
 

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Turn your screw all the way in, then set the car into timing mode. If you did it correctly and the screw is in, it'll die real quick (if everything is clean, and it sounds like you cleaned everything really well).

I see alot of people having hard time getting the car into timing mode correctly...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
pauley01 said:
I am going to try it. My major problem is gas consumption. I have 1/4 tank of gas left and have only been 150 miles. I think my MAF is my main problem. While my car is idling like shit, I can pull the MAF plug and wham...problem is gone. It idles perfect. When I put the plug back on, it starts surging again. I have sprayed MAF cleaner on it multiple times and its not helping.

I hope I have diagnosed this right. Shitty gas mileage, running rich (black muffler tip) and terrible idle. I can rev up to 5K with no problems, so that does make me wonder about the MAF.
So you do have an extra MAF to diagnose with don't you? If so, did you get the same results with the other part? I know that sometimes a problem in one area may make you think that a totally unrelated part is at fault. My gas mileage seems to be shitty to, but I haven't checked in a while. I am going to give this a shot to. I have cleaned the MAF sensor many times over as well. Have you played with the ARV yet or the coolant temp sensor? I have my old coolant temp sensor for you if you want it to try out and keep. I also have my old ARV. I could ship it down for you to try out. I just don't have another MAF :(

Let me know if this procedure corrects it. I'll do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
cavern said:
Turn your screw all the way in, then set the car into timing mode. If you did it correctly and the screw is in, it'll die real quick (if everything is clean, and it sounds like you cleaned everything really well).

I see alot of people having hard time getting the car into timing mode correctly...
That's interesting. I'll try that to. I truly believe that my car was in timing mode while this is happening though. Timing Mark is stable as can be.
 

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I mean...it doesn't seem like rocket science to get the car into timing mode...I followed the "shortcut" way:
1. Warm Car Up
2.) Rev past 3K three times
3.) With car RUNNING, disconnect the TPS
4.) The End...I am in timing mode.

When I check the pulley, the marks are still....I assume I am in timing mode...right?


EDIT: I am still waiting on my replacement MAF... :shock:
 

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You cant tell by the marks if your in timing mode or not, because you can stick a timing light on (say a digital one) and it will check timing based on what rpm you are at, its just not an accurate reading, thus the marks will show up.

Just keep the car running when you do it, heres what I do.

1. Adjust screw to about half way (motor is off)
2. Turn on car.
3. Warm up car
4. Rev over 3k 3-4 times, letting it drop down to idle each time then back over 3k.
5. Unplug TPS, adjust rpm.

During this step (5) you can turn your rpm really low (screw in) to see if you can get the car to bog, means you are in timing mode correctly.

6. Check Timing.
7. Adjust Distributor
8. Plug TPS back In
9. Done.
 

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Yep, Yep...Thats exactly what I do...Problem is, at 15* timing, when I turn the screw ALL the way in, my car will idle at 750-800. No lower. It does not bog...its actually where it should be set. So your saying that means something is dirty or broken then?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
cavern said:
You cant tell by the marks if your in timing mode or not, because you can stick a timing light on (say a digital one) and it will check timing based on what rpm you are at, its just not an accurate reading, thus the marks will show up.

Just keep the car running when you do it, heres what I do.

1. Adjust screw to about half way (motor is off)
2. Turn on car.
3. Warm up car
4. Rev over 3k 3-4 times, letting it drop down to idle each time then back over 3k.
5. Unplug TPS, adjust rpm.

During this step (5) you can turn your rpm really low (screw in) to see if you can get the car to bog, means you are in timing mode correctly.

6. Check Timing.
7. Adjust Distributor
8. Plug TPS back In
9. Done.
hmmm, I'll try this method, and report back...I doubt that turning the screw all the way in will result in anything lower than the rpm it is stuck at now though, but it is worth a shot.
 

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I dont think something is broken, but when you unplug the TPS, the motor should rev really high real quick then if the screw is all the way in it will drag and die very quickly.

If your worried about your MAF check the voltage on it.

When your car is not in timing mode, the screw might affect the idle slightly, but not significently, the ECU wont let it go below 750, it will rev back up to change the mixture.
 
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