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Discussion Starter #401 (Edited)
I ended up wrapping it in header wrap too. I am hoping it holds until I get to they dyno on Saturday, then depending on the results make a permanent solution.

I got most of the car back together, installed the new axle seals that have been leaking, installed all of the new sensors, installed the intake plenum and roughed in the piping, installed the header, wired up the new MAP sensor and shortened the IAT wiring, and installed the shock tower bar. The throttle cable and bracket gave me a bit of a struggle, since I am using the B15 throttle cable I had to mount the bracket behind the TB instead of in front and the TPS ended up facing up. This along with clearance to the firewall made things interesting. I have to fill the coolant, install the overflow bottle, set the TPS voltage, and finish up the fuel lines before I can start it. There are a few interior bits that need to be put back in as well but nothing that would prevent me from taking it on a test drive. I need to get a decent base tune and any issues taken care of before Saturday. Weather looks nice so I should be able to drive it to work to rough in the tune and use up the old gas.

 

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Discussion Starter #402
Ran in to a few issues again last night. First was that my dumbass forgot to ground the ECU harness to the intake manifold, turned the key on and no fuel pump and no communication to the laptop. Started going over all my connections, then remembered I had not connected the ground. Fixed that, fuel pump on, no fuel pressure. Checked for fuel in the return line, it was there. Turned up the Nismo fuel pressure regulator, no change. Found the stock regulator and put it on, fuel pressure. By this time it was late and time for bed. But, everything should be ready for a start up tonight. The interior is still in shambles but good enough to test drive.

I ordered an Aeromotive 13129 regulator, it should be here Thursday. Not sure I really need one since I think I will run 3 Bar fuel pressure, but if I decide to go E85 I might need to bump it up.
http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/regulators/fuel-injected/efi-bypass-regulator/
 

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Discussion Starter #404
Kool nice to see everyone coming out with there projects. You need bigger injectors if you gonna be running e85
You might be right. I was at 65-70% or so last year at 4 Bar on the 444cc injectors. Which is right on with the rating of 351WHP at 4 Bar, so 237WHP is about 67% of that. If it takes a full 30% more it will be pushing it. Might have to go with the ID750s then.
 

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Discussion Starter #405
It runs again, for the most part. Tune needs a lot of work still, pretty lean in the low load range. Because of this the idle is a little funky. Made a few changes and went for a drive and logged it. Went in and reviewed it and made some changes. I also fixed the Neutral switch connector that broke off when I was swapping axle seals. Hoping to get some good tuning in tonight so I can start driving it to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #406 (Edited)
Got to the dyno yesterday. I wasn't near ready with the tune and it made for a long frustrating day. I ran out of fuel adjustment on the fuel table right when I was putting the final touches on. I used the "optimize fuel table" function and it would not idle after that. So i ended up pulling 5 points from every cell and adjusting the injector size to bring it back. This cause the top part that was almost smooth to change and had to basically start over.

First dyno chart is from some earlier runs when the car was still cool. 242 WHP and 182 Ft lbs.


After some work got the cam switch over smooth and the rest of the AFRs smooth.


Overall I was pretty happy with the results, took from 10am to 1pm and about 25 pulls. Wish I had more time to get these things worked out before the dyno but it did not happen that way. I have lots of work to do on the rest of the fuel table as well. Car feels crazy on the street, borderline violent. It just seems to throw you back in the seat all the way to red line. I do not remember it quite like this last year.
 

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Discussion Starter #408 (Edited)
I have been working on the driveability part of the tune and it is getting a lot better, almost done. I also installed the Addco rear sway bar. I had the rear shocks about 3/4 the way up before to help the rear come around and after I put them to full soft. The rear seems a lot more predictable and smooth, and does seem to rotate quite a bit better. I will play with the shock settings and go find some twisty roads and see how it really does. So far I like it and it was a good addition to the suspension setup.



 

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Discussion Starter #410
Using stock replacement end links. I ordered mine through Summit Racing as I do a lot of parts.
 

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I kinda want to take the header off snickers and send it to you for you to test on your car. Since you have rear mount alternator it will fit. It may or may not make power but worth testing for curiosity sake if you wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter #412
I kinda want to take the header off snickers and send it to you for you to test on your car. Since you have rear mount alternator it will fit. It may or may not make power but worth testing for curiosity sake if you wanted.
I am willing to try, I get relatively cheap dyno time. I have a local guy with your budget header I think I can try, and someone with your stepped header, it is still new though, not sure he will want me to use it.

As I am debating on how to fix this header I am thinking it might be easier to make a new one, and that opens all sorts of options. One option would be to replicate this header but make it stepped.

I have been looking around SR20-Forum at other 88mm dynos to compare. One was at similar HP levels but 15 ft-lbs less, and one was around 255 WHP and still 9-10 ft-lbs less. Makes me think this setup is working even though the header may not be ideal. It is also holding power comparable to most of those setups.

I am curious if a better designed header would gain any up top and not loose any under the curve. I like where the power is at, but if a better header would gain all over that would be great.

The tune is dialed in now so I wanted to get back to the dyno to do a pull when it was cold to confirm what peak HP is. I will see if I can borrow the stepped header and see what happens. Is your header similar specs to your old stepped header?
 

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I kinda want to take the header off snickers and send it to you for you to test on your car. Since you have rear mount alternator it will fit. It may or may not make power but worth testing for curiosity sake if you wanted.
I wanted to suggest this to you a long time ago. Please do if Nick is willing.
 

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This header is later diameter 4-2-1 for 6500-9000 rpm power on high compression high hp. Not for low end or midrange. The header you had is tuned for a TQ peak of around 7000rpm or so. Which is most likely why you make great power up to 7000 then your tq rolls off. If you had a larger diameter and shorter runners te peak would be later and your top en would climb.

Are you able to make a mid pipe relatively easy? Mine is made for my car but may not work on a regular engine bay. Lots of little changes. I have a v band right after the oil pan and a brace there as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #415
I have a fabricator that can make the mid pipe, or even make a small section that connects to the one I have now. Last night we discussed some options, one of them building a new header, start just slightly shorter than mine and continue to shorten it to see what happens. The more I look at my graph the more I like it, the low end torque is great for what I want, but if I could get it to hold slightly better after peak, it would be ideal.

First things first, I am going to pull my header back off and see if we can get it welded back together and sealed. Then do a few more pulls just to get final numbers. Then I could test your header, and depending on the results, then make a new header to see what we can get. But there are so many options / variables I am not sure I want to spend the money for a slightly different curve. What would the benefit of a 4-2-1 have over my header now at similar lengths and diameter? Would a stepped header be much different? Ect, ect....

I have been reading up on designs and the answer is there is no clear one header is better than the other. It depends on your specific setup and what you want out of it. There is not much info out there on different headers in the SR community.
 

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Discussion Starter #416
I have been driving the car most days when it is not crazy hot or rainy and it is nothing short of spectacular. So much fun to drive, the acceleration is crazy and it handles the corners like a dream. I need to get this car on the track and see what it can really do. The car is prefect for daily driving, not too much power where is is hard to drive, and the reliability is prefect. The tune is pretty much done, the header still needs to be sealed. I am thinking about making another one slightly shorter as it might be easier than trying to fix this one. I love the power band though, not sure I am willing to give up and low end for any top end. Once I fix the header I want to get finial dyno numbers with a non-leaking header then try E85.
 

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Discussion Starter #417
Another spring rolls around and the car goes through a few more changes. New springs installed, went with Swift 9K front and 7K rear from 8K front 5K rear. There must have been something fundamentally wrong with the original springs that came with the coilovers because the car behaves way different. First, it is not as bouncy, it feels more planted when hitting bumps and the rear end does not bounce. It seemed that the rear might have been too soft, or the progressive type springs gave too much droop which made the car pivot more on the front wheels. The biggest difference is the rear end rotation and turn in response. Before I had to fight it into the corner, but once hard into the corner it would like to rotate. Now it rotates right away and responds to the the turn in much better.

I also swapped out the JDM headlights with an HID kit for a set of USDM ones and back to standard bulbs. I put in some PIAA Xtreme White bulbs, they are not super tinted and provide a good amount of light.

I still have a new set of ID850 injectors, an Autotech top feed fuel rail, Aeromotive fuel filter, Innovate Ethanol sensor (gauge is installed), and a new wideband O2 sensor to install. But before all of that goes in I want to have a new header built. I bought a flange from Mazworkx but I have not settled on a design yet. I am thinking about purchasing the PipeMax software and see what different designs will yield. I am leaning towards a tri-y to try to have a good mid range power band that hopefully will hold a little better than the Mazworkx header.

I have been very busy with working full time and being in school full time, so I am not sure when I will get a chance to get the car into the shop to fab a header. The car has almost 19,000 miles on it since the rebuild and I still love to drive it when the weather is nice. Such a fun car to drive that does not disappoint when you get on it or take it through some windy roads.

As I briefly mentioned about the Ethanol gauge, I had to change how my gauges were installed to fit all 4 instead of the original 3. I still have some wiring to do before they are finished up, but I will try to get some pictures when it is all done. Also was able to install a black dash, this one does not rattle as much which is nice.
 

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Glad to hear that you are still enjoying the car. Sounds like the spring change really improved the personality of the car for you! I'm exciting to see what you come up with the header. Keep it up!!
 

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It's just amazing that you've been updating this thread since 2011. I literally have no words other than congratulations and keep up the good work! You're definitely amazing!
 
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