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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,

I am new to this forum and need some assistance with getting my engine swap to work. The swap was performed on a Nissan B14 (Sunny), however I saw a decent amount of wiring topics on this forum and was hoping someone can help give me some insight on my current problem at hand.

I installed a SR20DET from a Nissan liberty into my B14 and just finished the wiring using the liberty harness. The ECU relay clicks on, fuel pump primes, engine cranks but no spark. Injectors also pulse while cranking so I am assuming crank and cam sensors are good. Double checked all power (ECU pin 34,104,4,36 & 46) and grounds on the ECU plug.

I assumed that maybe the coil in the distributor may have failed. I want to confirm this but I don't know which wires on the distributor correlate to cam, crank and coil. I have searched the net for a pin out or wiring diagram of the Avenir style 8pin distributor with no luck. Below are the wires I have and the voltages I get with ignition switch on:

Black - Ground
White/Red - 12V
Black/Red - 5V (ECU pin 31)
Brown - 5V (either ECU pin22 or 30)
Green/Black - 12V
White/Black - 12V
Black/Yellow - Ground
Orange/Black - (ECU pin1)

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I have been comparing this to the US style 6pin/2pin distributor wiring. Should there be a 12V switched feed (Black/Red) for the Ignition coil from the battery? In an attempt to isolate which 12v feed this might be, I disconnected the the ECU, switched ignition on and checked for voltages. At this point I was expecting there to be one 12V feed on the distributor plug for the coil but there was none at all. Is the feed for the coil supposed to come from the ECU or the battery? Was trying to verify if the coil is really busted before going out to buy a replacement distributor.
 

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Verify that the inside of the cap is clean and free of any oil on the optic sensor or plate
Check that the rotor and cap are clean and within spec.
For giggles, verify that you have continuity across each spark plug wire.

If the distributor checks out physically, pull it from the engine but keep it wired up. Pull all of the plugs and put them in the spark plug leads and lay them across a conductive steel plate or something so that they have a ground. Turn the key to on and rotate the distributor shaft by hand and see if you have spark.

Are you using the Liberty Harness, ECU, and distributor?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, thank you for your response.

Yes I am using the Liberty Harness, ECU and Distributor. I had inspected the rotor cap, seems to be good. I gave the contact points and rotor contact a little cleaning just in case.

Have not tried manually turning the distributor by hand yet. Will double check the plug wires as well, would have to be rather unlucky for all plug wires to be bad but given my luck anything is possible:rolleyes:

What trips me up is that when looking at the US wire diagrams for the 6/2 pin disty it shows that the power for the coil comes from a switched ignition source. With the ECU disconnected and ignition switched to on, I have no 12V on the distributor plug which made me assume that I did not have a power source for the coil. However I ended looking at a jdm diagram for the N14 pulsar GTir and a SR18 version which shows the coil 12V source coming from the ECU.

I have been using the following diagram (same as Haynes manual) to help get an idea of the pin out of the distributor.
* I believe this diagram came from the scanner danner forums.

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I have three 12V sources:

Green/Black - making an assumption that this is connected to the resistor as it reads just over 11V and not enough to power a test light.
White/Read - cam position sensor source voltage
White/Black - Possibly base voltage to the power transistor (it flickers then goes dim while cranking)

rest of wires:
Black - Ground
Black/Red - 5V
Brown - 5V
Black / Yellow - Ground
Orange/Black - ? Need to check while cranking. Based on wire colours to ECU, it should be pin 1, Ignition signal 1.

I am going to check continuity from the distributor plug to the sub harness, ECU plug and under dash harness to get an idea of what goes where.
 

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Wiring issues suck. I hope you are also referencing OEM service manuals as well How To Use NICOclub Factory Service Manuals.
If the whole setup came from a running car, it doesnt make sense that it doesnt work, assuming this B14 chassis had an SR20DE in it before hand. Do you have any friends around that have spare parts to test with?, i.e a DE distributor, DE/DET Harness, and maybe even a different ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
FSM manuals and some pin outs online. Most information on the net are for silvia, but the pin outs are very similar even for the GA16. I was able to find some differences on my particular setup for the boost solenoid etc.

The car was GA16 but I got all the mechincal and electrical bits for the swap. Based on all the information that I have seen for wiring up swaps I did not see any where a switched 12V for the coil was external to the harness but will double check. All that was required where the specific power and ground pins mentioned before.
 

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Not sure if this will help but I did some digging around when I did my coil on plug setup, I listed out some wiring diagrams for that if it helps. Obviously your system isn't a COP but wiring is similar when talking external coils and whatnot.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not sure if this will help but I did some digging around when I did my coil on plug setup, I listed out some wiring diagrams for that if it helps. Obviously your system isn't a COP but wiring is similar when talking external coils and whatnot.

Thank you, glanced at this before, but will look at in detail now.

I did some continuity tests from the distributor to the harness, accessory sub harness and the under dash harness. All continuity checked out at the ECU plug and the ECCS relay so I can assume at this point that the switched 12V for the coil is coming from the ECU as there is no connection of the distributor wires to any of the sub harnesses with the exception of ground. Here is what I found:

Black - Ground
White/Red - 12V (Pin 38/47 - ECU power)
Black/Red - 5V (Pin 31 - Crank Angle 1 Degree Signal)
Brown - 5V (Pin 22/30 Cam angle 180 Degree Signal)
Green/Black - 12V (Pin 3 - Ignition CK signal)
White/Black - 12V (white/black on ECCS relay)
Black/Yellow - Ground
Orange/Black - (Pin 1 - Ignition Signal)

I will double check spark at the distributor cap and voltage on ignition signal wires while cranking before purchasing replacement distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pulled plug one from distributor and tested for spark with a test light. I confirmed that I DO have spark! Very weak, barely visible hairline spark. I initially tested with an inline tester which would not have lit up with that weak spark. It would seem that I have a bad coil.

Would the resistor also be a potential cause of this problem? I assume this is located within the harness?
 

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If you are running new BKR6 or BKR7’s with around a .028" to .030" gap in your car, and you are getting weak spark, then I would try testing your system with a different distributor. If a new or re-manufactured distributor gives the same issue, then you know the issue is likely still in your wiring / harness / ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you are running new BKR6 or BKR7’s with around a .028" to .030" gap in your car, and you are getting weak spark, then I would try testing your system with a different distributor. If a new or re-manufactured distributor gives the same issue, then you know the issue is likely still in your wiring / harness / ECU.
Sourcing a replacement distributor at the moment. The spark is too weak to even traverse the plug wire to the spark plug. It was only visible when testing at one of the post on the distributor cap.
 

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If the distributor is not the issue, check out this swap thread about a SR20det into a GA16DE NX2000. HOWTO: 1.6 GA16DE to 2.0 SR20DET swap
Item:SR20DE Harness
Description:Another area where I had some major delays. The BlueBird wiring harness doesn't match up with your underdash harness. Another forum member apparently wired his GA16DE engine harness to work on a bluebird motor, but had to not only rewire the harness, but also the distributor. Save yourself headaches and just get the SR20DE harness!
Purchased From: Sr20Forum Member
Price:$100
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Unfortunately the distributor swap did not work. Same issue where there is barely a spark on the distributor cap.

I scanned the car with ECU talk and realized that every time I crank I get a code 21 ignition signal primary.

Based on this I was trying to check voltage on the Orange/Black wire (Pin1 Ignition Signal) of the distributor on crank. I don't seem to be getting any readings from this even though the CAS is working as the injectors do pulse while crank. I am not sure if this should read 12V on crank?

Will troubleshoot some more. So far I have double checked all my power and ground connections on ECU connector and it seems that all connections made at under dash harness and accessory harness on the engine bay checks out OK. ECU talk can also get readings from sensors, injectors, displays the RPM while cranking and strangely even the ignition timing. WIll have to check all ground connections on the engine bay as well.

I need to resolve why I don't seem to be getting an ignition signal to the transistor/power module of the distributor as this should be coming from the ECU. Or maybe I cannot pick this up on the multi meter?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No I tried another 8pin Avenir distributor...It was used though.

What has me perplexed is that I am still getting a spark from the distributor cap and also the ECU talk software displays the ignition timing when cranking. I am not sure how small the measurement from the Ignition signal wire is and if it will even be displayed on my multi-meter but the fact that base ignition is being displayed on the ECU talk software makes me think that the ignition signal is there.

I was thinking of checking the resistor but I believe with a faulty resistor the car would have started but stalled when the ignition switch went to the ON position if I understand correctly. Still researching the Code 21 error I keep getting.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, so today I checked all my power and grounds off the ECU harness again: 12V on pin 36,46,38,47 and 9-10V on pin 34 while cranking. Some swap write ups mention to have 12V on pin 109 also but from wiring diagrams I noticed that 109 has a connection to ping 46, so with ignition I confirmed that there is 12V on pin 109.

Cleaned up all the grounds on the engine room, ground to alternator (added an additional ground here) and ground from gearbox to chassis to battery. I checked the harness grounds to the two points on the back of the intake manifold, not sure if there are any more grounds on the harness?

Still a weak spark coming from distributor. I even tried adjusting the distributor while cranking. What I did notice is that the spark is actually traversing the plug wire as I can barely make the spark out on the inline tester but it's still too weak to jump the gap on the spark plug.

I came across a silvia post with the exact issue where a faulty ignitor was the cause. This can mean I possibly have two faulty distributors.....I am a bit skeptical but I will get a replacement next week to try.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi Guys,

I am back at this and still lost at the moment.

Quick update:

After adding some extra grounds to from engine to chassis I now have slightly brighter spark. The spark barely jumps the gap of the spark plug and still too weak to start the engine.

I have confirmed which pins of the US style disty correspond to the 8pin Avenir disty. With this I have gone through the FSM troubleshooting guide for both the cam sensor and ignition system.

The cam sensor checks out fine. When it comes to the ignition system I was not able to check the resistor as I can not find it. I have searched the harness loom for the white square casing that houses it but found nothing so I am assuming that the resistor is internal. As I understand the resistor is internal in the VVL distributor and they both look the same.

What does not check out are the coil resistances when compared to the FSM:

Primary resistance - 2.18K ohms (FSM suggested - 0.5 - 1.0ohms) when checking using the distributor connector pins. I assume this reading is because of the resistor being internal. If I open the distributor up and check the primary resistance directly between coil positive and negative I get less than an ohm which is within spec. I believe the two screws shown in the picture are coil negative and positive.

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Secondary resistance - I read 15.6Kohm (FSM suggested 25Kohm) on the secondary. I also read 16.8Kohm on the spare distributor I bought. I am going with the suggested resistance of the US style distributor and making a big assumption that the coil resistance is the same for both the US and Avenir. This would indicate that I have a bad coil?....on two distributors....???

Can anyone tell me what the secondary coil resistance of the Avenir distributor should be? I also see that the VVL distributor looks the same, 8 pin connector as well. Does anyone know if it can interchange?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the engine fired up today! The 12V feed to the distributor coil was the problem. Voltage checks out OK so I assume it may be an amperage issue, bad or damages connection somewhere on the harness. I ended wiring a new feed from the battery via a relay.
 
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