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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Steps to Modify the 95-99 Maxima Front Strut Tower Bar for the G20t (P11) *UPDATED*

I've recently purchased a front strut tower bar for the 1995-99 Nissan Maxima and read that it can be modified to fit the P11s. The generic/no name brand bar was purchased from www.ebay.com for $22.

Since I could not find instructions to do the modifications, the below are my instructions.

Instructions to modify the front strut tower bar for the 1995 - 1999 Nissan Maxima to fit the 1999 - 2002 Infiniti G20/G20t (P11).

I. Pre-requisite:

A front strut tower bar for the 1995-99 Nissan Maxima. This bar needs to be round. My instructions is only for the round bar.

The level of difficulty is easy for the do-it-yourselfer.

Pic 1



Flat bars are also available but may be harder to modify to fit the P11s.

II. Materials/Tools Required:

hack saw
vise-grip pliers
metal file
ruler
high-speed bottom and plug tap bits (size 14x1.50 mm)
400 fine sand paper

III. Procedures:

1. Test fit the brackets on the Infiniti G20t to ensure the brackets fit the front stut
mounts. If you purchased the bar for the 1995-99 Nissan Maxima, it should fit.

2. Remove both brackets from the bar (pic 2)

Pic 2



3. Locate side of the bar in which the bolt (that attaches to the bracket) is screwed on clock-wise (pic 3). Unscrew the bolt.

Pic 3



4. Since the length of the bar is 31 and 1/4 inches, use a hack saw to cut off 2 inches. Make sure the correct bar end where the bolt is screwed on clock-wise is cut off. The length of the bar should be 29 and 1/4 inches long. This length is perfect and will fit the P11 with room to spare.

5. You can smooth out the surface of the bar end that was cut off using a file (you can also use a nail file because the bar is aluminum).

6. Using the plug tap bit (pic 4), slowing turn the tap bit clock-wise to begin threading the bar (pic 5). Be sure to put grease on the cutting teeth of the bit. This will keep the bit sharp and easy to turn. Also, a vise-grip plier will give you leverage and help you grip the bar. Make sure you put a cloth between the bar and plier because it will leave a mark on the bar.

Pic 4



Pic 5



7. Once your done threading the bar using the plug tap bit, remove the bit.

8. Repeat step 6 using the bottom tap bit. This procedure will produce nice and clean thread cut.

9. Once your done threading the bar using the bottom tap bit, remove the bit. You should now have a nicely threaded bar (pic 6).

Pic 6



10. Screw on the bolt clock-wise to make sure it fits the new bar threads (pic 7).

Pic 7



11. Using 400 fine sand paper, sand the bar to smooth out the scratches made (by the pliers). Since the bar already had scratches/blemishes, sanding the bar makes it look cleaner (pic 8).

Pic 8



Since it's a generic noname brand, you can stick any label brand you want on it. For me, I'll keep it clean.

III. Installing the bar

1. Unscrew the three nuts from the right and left front strut mounts. Mount the strut bar brackets and tighten the bolts to factory torque settings (16 - 22 lbs) (pic 9).

Pic 9



2. Make sure the bolts that attaches to the bar are screwed on both sides. Attach the left side of the strut bar to the bracket (Pic 10). Turn the bar so that both sides of the bar bolts are unscrewing evenly and align with the right bracket. Once the right bolt is aligned to the right bracket, attach the strut bar to the bracket.



3. Both left and right sides of the strut bar should now be mounted on the brackets evenly (Pic 11).



4. Turn the strut bar to tighten both left and right bolts evenly. Tighten the locking nuts for the left and right bolts. Tighten the nuts for the bolts connecting the bar to the brackets to complete the installation (pic 12).

Pic 12




Any questions or corrections, please let me know...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks to Yahnozha for his steps...

I also like the flat bar better but both sides of the bar and bolts need to be cut. For me, the round bar would be a quicker modification. Only one side of the bar needs to be cut and threaded.

At least we can now choose to modify either flat or round strut tower bars...

Also, the round bar is a solid FSTB and does what it's designed to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi All,

I've completed the instructions to modify the front strut tower bar for the 1995 - 1999 Nissan Maxima to fit the 1999 - 2002 Infiniti G20/G20t (P11).

If anybody has questions regarding the procedures, feel free to email or pm me.

Good Luck!
 

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'Luke'
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Crying Freeman said:
Thanks to Yahnozha for his steps...

I also like the flat bar better but both sides of the bar and bolts need to be cut. For me, the round bar would be a quicker modification. Only one side of the bar needs to be cut and threaded.

At least we can now choose to modify either flat or round strut tower bars...

Also, the round bar is a solid FSTB and does what it's designed to do.
I agree, the round bar looks better and stronger than the flat one. Nice job !!

That said, there is always the option of the beefy bars of Cusco, Carbing or Stillen (if you can find the latter)...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Loek said:
I agree, the round bar looks better and stronger than the flat one. Nice job !!

That said, there is always the option of the beefy bars of Cusco, Carbing or Stillen (if you can find the latter)...
Thanks Loek...I hope these instructions get permanently posted somewhere.
 

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Loek said:
I agree, the round bar looks better and stronger than the flat one. Nice job !!

That said, there is always the option of the beefy bars of Cusco, Carbing or Stillen (if you can find the latter)...
Or just make your own.


Nice instructions :thumbsup:
 
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