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So I’ve recently finished my T25 turbo install and feel obliged to try and give back to the forum that made the project possible in the first place. I plan on posting some pics of the finished product soon, but I thought I'd begin by posting a comprehensive parts list. I’ve gone back over old receipts/emails and compiled this list. I suppose every install’s different, but this is what I ended up using and I’ve tried to be as thorough as possible. If nothing else perhaps it can help anyone thinking of doing this sort of project get a more ‘realistic’ look at exactly what they’ll need instead of a short list of the main parts everyone already knows they need. I’m sure I’ve missed a few things, but it should be fairly complete. If I were to do it again, I swear I could save a couple hundred bucks on shipping alone. I tried to buy as many things as I knew I’d need up front but inevitably had to buy a number of things individually, after starting the install, as I discovered I needed them. Some things I got a good deal on, others I got raped on because I needed them right away. I figure overall I finished about where I expected as far as price. All told, including the cost of shipping and purchase of tools I have just about 3 grand in the project.

Perfectly good parts I opted not to install:
1. Aftermarket ECU (Though some probably strongly disagree, I don’t trust flying blind on a JWT ECU. I’d rather spend about the same money on the tools to let me tune myself. At least this way I know exactly the person to blame if my motor blows up. Besides I’m not sure how OBD-II compliance works with their OBD-I ECUs)
2. Cams (seemed like a lot of work/money/hassle/risk for what you get)
3. Upgraded clutch (current one is slightly above OEM spec but only a few months old so I gotta burn it up first :teeth: )
4. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (Apparently don’t need it from what I’ve been seeing on the AFR curves)
5. Boost controller (My 8psi setting at the actuator will remain unless I upgrade stock internals)
6. Turbo timer (might add one later so I don’t have to sit in the car while it idles)
7. Custom midpipe. I’m about to do the muffler and see what that does…I’ll do the mid pipe eventually if I still want more…

Core Turbo Parts: ($335) – Private Sale found on SR20forums (First purchase…This ridiculous price pretty much started the whole project)
1. Journal Bearing T25 from W10 (CHRA in excellent condition)
2. BB Manifold /w heatshield
3. BB compressor J-pipe flange /w gasket
4. BB exhaust dump pipe /w heatshield

Fuel Management parts:
1. Apexi SAFCII ($220) – ebay
2. Used 370cc Injectors from an SR20DET ($90) - private sale found on SR20Forums
3. Walbro 190lph fuel pump ($79) - lightningmotorsports.com
4. Zeitronix Zt-2 Wideband Controller /w Bosch wideband O2 sensor ($279) - Zeitronix.com
5. EGT probe /w harness for Zt-2 ($77) - Zeitronix.com (installed in cylinder 4 exhaust port on BB manifold. Must be drilled and tapped for 1/8" NPT as close to block as possible)
6. Pocketlogger software download from pocketlogger.com ($40)
7. PDA adapter cable for Zeitronix Zt-2 to Palm PDA for digital tuning's pocketlogger software. ($15) - For realtime monitoring/logging of AFR, EGT, TPS, RPM from Palm PDA.
8. Old ass Palm IIIc PDA (Free) - One of my Dad's 4 old ones. The pocketlogger setup is clearly overkill, but you do at least need a laptop in place temporarily for logging with the Zeitronix software.

Intake parts:
1. FMIC and universal 2.5" piping kit ($160) - ebay (I know what you're thinking but it was actually of excellent quality for the price. Polished aluminum pipes with all Mandrel bends, quality welds on the end tanks, triple ply silicone couplers, 20+ t-bolt clamps included. I was quite surprised)
2. Rubber intake tube off my bro's NX1600. – (Free!) Perfect for routing BOV recirc line because you can use the stock resonator opening for it.
3. Greddy Type-S blow off valve ($40) - ebay (Yes, this is the pricing for the Chinese knockoff, but it holds boost perfectly well, and if you hook up both the vacuum and boost signals the sound is awesome if you set the spring real loose. You’d never know it was recirculated from the noise)
4. 3ft of 3/4” rubber washing machine hose for BOV recirc line. ($9) – Local hardware store. I wanted 1inch, but couldn’t find it.
5. Greddy BOV Intercooler adapter flange 2.5" ($32) - ebay (Cast aluminum section of tubing with exact flange for greddy type BOVs)
6. 6ft of 3/16" silicone hose for vacuum lines ($9) - ATP Turbo
7. Vacuum T-fittings for BOV, wastegate actuator, boost gauge hookups ($2) - Local pepboys (Don't tap anything off of the stock vacuum lines that go to the emissions system. i.e. evap and egr! You will throw engine codes)
8. Silicone reducer couplings for matching 2.5” piping to turbo, intercooler, TB, maf ports: 2" to 2.5" (1), 2.25" to 2.5" (3), 2.5" to 2.75" (1), matching T-bolt clamps ($107) - ATP Turbo (Ya it’s not cheap when you buy from these guys!)
9. 5ft of 1/2" rubber hose for rerouting intake lines ($5) - Local Pepboys
10. HKS oil catch tank ($50) - ebay - To separate blow by gasses from the valve train ( I had to lose the stock oil separator)
11. Air filter and Maf adapter plate ($40) - Local Pepboys (Ya I got ripped off...The ebay filter never showed up and I ran out of time. At least it's a really good quality filter for the money)

Exhaust Parts:
1. 2.5" BB/Avenir downpipe ($149) - JGY Customs (And it was actually in stock!)
2. 2.5" turbo muffler from Summit Racing ($15) – Not yet installed
3. 2.5" ID to 3" ID polished exhuast tip ($20) - Summit Racing
4. SR20DET exhaust manifold gasket ($15) – ebay
5. 18mm o2 sensor bung and plug set for Wideband O2 port ($9) – ebay (Welded to JGY downpipe 22” from turbo)
6. 1/2" NPT female steel weld bung for custom EGR feed line fitting. ($8) - ATP Turbo (Welded to downpipe just past the turbo dump pipe)
7. Catalytic converter Gasket ($2) - rockauto.com
8. Downpipe exhaust gasket – ($9) – ATP Turbo
9. Turbo flange gasket to Manifold ($12) - ATP Turbo
10. Dump pipe flange gasket (Mine came with the turbo parts)
11. 1/2" braided 304SS hose with 1/2" NPT male ends 3ft ($28) - gopherindustrial.com (For EGR feed to bpt diaphragm. Gotta have it in NY state)
12. 1/2" compression to female thread pipe union fitting ($5) - For joining SS hose to cut EGR tube. - Aubuchon Hardware

Oil/Water Parts:
1. T25 turbo oil feed line kit ($60) - ebay (braided SS feed line)
2. T25 turbo oil drain flange&gasket ($15) (old one was way too big original 5/8" and leaked) – ebay
3. 1/8" NPT 0.06" oil inlet restrictor for Journal bearing T25 ($14) - ATP Turbo
4. Banjo fitting kit for T25 coolant lines 3/8" barb fittings ($36) - ATP Turbo
5. 25ft spool of 3/8" rubber fuel hose for coolant lines ($9) – ebay
6. Oil pan gasket ($5) - rockauto.com
7. 1' of -4 AN braided hose – ebay – (36” feed line wasn’t quite long enough to do the routing I wanted.)
8. (2) 1/8"NPT to -4 AN adapter fittings ($3) – ebay
9. Nissport oil pressure adapter (1/8" BSP male threads into stock block fitting and has (1) 1/8 BSP female for stock sender and 3 1/8" NPT female fittings for whatever else you need to feed) ($49) - nissport.com
10. 1/4" NPT to 3/8" barb fitting for oil return line threaded into block – ($2) – Home depot. This way you only have to drill a 7/16” hole in your block and you get a 3/8 barb, which is plenty for a T25 oil drain. (assuming you’re using the restrictor of course)

Electrical & Other Parts:
1. Single DIN aftermarket Headunit & Line level adapter - You'll need the extra space for the gauges
1. Battery relocation kit ($50) - Summit Racing (installed before starting turbo install because I knew I’d probably need the space, and indeed I did)
2. (5) 8mm (1.25pitch studs) to replace old studs on turbo exhaust side ($5) - ATP Turbo
3. (10) 8mm (1.25pitch locking head nuts) ($9) - ATP Turbo
4. (10) NGK BKR7E spark plugs ($16) - rockauto.com (Had to buy at least 10)
5. VDO 2-1/16" 80 PSI Oil pressure Gauge ($25) - donssport.com
6. Pressure sender for oil gauge 1/8" NPT ($24) - donssport.com
7. VDO 2-1/16" 250F Water temp gauge ($25) - donssport.com
8. 1/8" NPT Temp sender for water gauge ($7) - drilled and tapped into water outlet flange - donssport.com
9. VDO 2-1/16" 0-30 IN.Hg to 0-25PSI boost gauge ($30) - donssport.com
10. 8' nylon boost tubing kit for boost gauge ($12) - 42 Draft Designs
11. Single DIN size triple 2-1/16" gauge pod for in-dash gauge mounting ($25) – ebay
12. Plenty of electrical wire for hooking up gauges, senders, extending sensors, etc.
13. Lots and lots of hose clamps and cable ties for various intake, water, vacuum line tightening.

Tools purchased for the project:
1. Drill bits for NPT fittings. 3/8” NPT is (37/64”), 1/4” NPT is (7/16”), 1/8” NPT is an “R” size bit. You’ll probably use this one the most if you have senders/probes to drill and tap.
2. Pipe tap and die set ($10) – Harbor Freight (Can’t beat a 10 dollar set that has 1/2”, 3/8”, and 1/4” NPT pipe taps.
3. 14” abrasive cutoff wheel for cutting intercooler, intake and exhaust piping. – ($49 On sale) – Harbor Freight (I would have lost my mind without this saw. I figure I made about 15 cuts doing the intercooler piping alone)
4. 90degree drill attachment with 3/8” chuck. Used this with 7/16” bit to drill the block for 1/4” NPT.

Other ‘specialty’ tools used:
1. 90AMP flux core/MIG welder and Auto-dimming helmet. For welding bungs, spot welding wastegate actuator to mount, etc.
2. Inductive timing light to adjust base advance (Do after SAFC install so you have a very accurate RPM readout)
3. 90 degree screwdriver for removing injector retainer caps
4. Hose pliers for removing water, vacuum, fuel lines without damaging them

Professional Services:
1. Injector testing/cleaning – ($55) – Accurate Technical Services (cleaninjectors.com) – It's nice to know that your used injectors spray evenly, are flow matched and don’t leak before you start using em…
 

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wats this baby come to in total :p im 2 lazy and im tired :O
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ya, my total was a few hundred higher because all prices don't include shipping, and I ended up having to buy a second set of injectors from someone on the SR20 forum because the dude I bought the first set from on Ebay sent 2 with blown coils.
 

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aye this will help me GREATLY in the small tiny bits n peices i need and what to search for on ebay, :) i plan on doing a full set up for UNDER £500 including exhaust.

the main problem is the turbo which is going to set me back AT least 100, i have my eyes on 1 at the momemt :) a standard T28 :p
 

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FireStorm said:
the main problem is the turbo which is going to set me back AT least 100, i have my eyes on 1 at the momemt :) a standard T28 :p
I hope this is not the same cheap turbo that you were asking about a few days ago :-\
 

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nono not that1, a standard one off a pulsar :)

Mark what are you on about, its 32.50 :)

well see whre 500quid gets me mate :p

not to mention the spax lowering springs brand new for £20 :)

and this guys guid proves you can find most on ebay, and will help a LOT of ppl greatly
 

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whats the difference between your setup and the one offered by jgy,im wanting to do a turbo setup but the jgy ones cheaper?Is the quality less with jgy?
 

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Kaplooi said:
Perfectly good parts I opted not to install:
1. Aftermarket ECU (Though some probably strongly disagree, I don’t trust flying blind on a JWT ECU. I’d rather spend about the same money on the tools to let me tune myself. At least this way I know exactly the person to blame if my motor blows up. Besides I’m not sure how OBD-II compliance works with their OBD-I ECUs)
2. Cams (seemed like a lot of work/money/hassle/risk for what you get)
3. Upgraded clutch (current one is slightly above OEM spec but only a few months old so I gotta burn it up first :teeth: )
4. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (Apparently don’t need it from what I’ve been seeing on the AFR curves)
5. Boost controller (My 8psi setting at the actuator will remain unless I upgrade stock internals)
6. Turbo timer (might add one later so I don’t have to sit in the car while it idles)
7. Custom midpipe. I’m about to do the muffler and see what that does…I’ll do the mid pipe eventually if I still want more…
1. Admirable that you want to tune the car yourself, but "flying blind" on JWT's program is a little harsh. Their tune is extremely conservative and you will certainly not blow your motor because of their fuel maps. If anything, it's the safest tune available. Also, I ran a 95 200SX SE-R JWT ECU (OBDII) in my 99 P11.

2. Apparently you think ~30 whp isnt worth 2-3 hours and $500, but several days and ~$2500 for 80 whp is. Funny math ;)

3. Probably won't take long... best get the parts in advance in case you need to do an "emergency" clutch job.

4. I think youre fine with the stock FPR and the Walbro 190. The AFPR will be a nice upgrade down the road, but you certainly dont need it now.

5. It wont take long before you hunger for more boost ;) I'd recommend an electronic boost controller (e.g. Blitz Spec S) over a manual one when you take the plunge. Also, you dont need to do anything to the stock internals until you reach around ~25 psi.

6. Turbo timers arent the necessity they used to be. Youve got a water-cooled center section on your turbo and that goes a long way to eliminate the issue. As long as you go easy on it as youre pulling into the parking lot youre fine without a turbo timer. Not too many people feel the need to boost right into their parking spot!

7. If you mean the B pipe (cat back portion), do this ASAP. The stock exhaust robs considerable horsepower after turbocharging. When you replace the cat back exhaust it will feel like a completely different animal.



- Greg -
 
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