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Its usually the ballast. I know my passenger side OEM HID flickers at start up but after about 5-10 seconds is solid just like the driver side. I suspect mine is getting low power at start up on that side because if I get the RPMs above 1500RPMs it stops flickering sooner. Wondering if a more powerful alternator will fix it?
 

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question, first off my 02 p11 sport has daytime running lights so...
put in my xenon dual about two weeks ago. worked awesome no problems. a couple days ago i notice that the day time running lights on passenger side dont work some days(the lights use the high beam bulb but way less power) anyone have an idea as to why sometimes they dont work (driver side works fine as with the rest of lights turn signals and parking lights)
 

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^ thanks for the info but that one was the high beam, i forgot to mention my passenger side low beam is aiming to all the way to the left side, how do i adjust to right angle?
 

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Hello everyone...this is my 1st post here and I need some help. I drive a P11 Nissan Primera 200sti and I had a front smash nt 2 long ago...I repaired everything and now I only have a problem with the headlights. In south Africa the primera's have a single beam headlight but I could only buy a brand new import dual beam for the car. Now the problem is the wiring. The headlights I got has 5 pins on the connector n 6 wires...red(low-beam I think), yellow(high beam I think), white(park light+), black (ground for park light and low beam), green(????) the green is connected like a ground wire to the headlight housing so I'm not sure...can someone advise me on what that wire is and where should it go...thanks
 

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I just received my set of duals but it didn't come with the HID ballast. Has anyone been successful using an aftermarket hid ballast or bulb and ballast combo. Will another OE Ballast work? Any info appreciated.
 

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FYI,
I got these in the link following : http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Nokya-H4-9003-Male-Wire-Harness-Heavy-Duty-14-AWG-Connector-Pigtail-NOK9151-/111103478342?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19de488a46&vxp=mtr

So, This connector's idea should be lil bit plug and play in P11. Saying, you don't need to spice oem wires but you must hook up 4 wires of jdm headlight (Xenon type, Halogen 's not be sure) to connector's pigtails.I also believe, it could be compatible either JDM dual Halogen and Xenon type.
 

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FYI,
I got these in the link following : http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Nokya-H4-9003-Male-Wire-Harness-Heavy-Duty-14-AWG-Connector-Pigtail-NOK9151-/111103478342?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19de488a46&vxp=mtr

So, This connector's idea should be lil bit plug and play in P11. Saying, you don't need to spice oem wires but you must hook up 4 wires of jdm headlight (Xenon type, Halogen 's not be sure) to connector's pigtails.I also believe, it could be compatible either JDM dual Halogen and Xenon type.
So your harness only has a male side. Are people cutting off the female sides of the other harness that's been posted?

This is the best explanation I have found on the site, so I'm copying it to this thread. Thanks Jeff!

o2G2o said:
We did it in a parking lot with wire strippers, tape, a Phillips screw driver and a 10mm socket in half an hour. Knowing what I know now, we could cut that time in half.
All you need to do is twist the 2 black wires from the power harness on the back of the Xenon, then twist them to the black wire from the car powering the OEM headlight. Then connect the two remaining wires (red from car to red from Xenon, green from car to green from Xenon) and you are done. Same thing with corner lights, except the wire count is already correct so no splicing two wires together on those.
 

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Best way I've found to get the lows to stay on with the highs is to get a H4 Bixenon harness like this. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-h4-motocontrol-bi-xenon-wire-harness.html#.U74z6I3n-Hs

You can either cut off the ends or get some 9006 male pigtails. Will work for both halogen and xenon. Power comes straight from the battery so the halogen might be brighter and will be safer on the stock car wiring.
I'm not really concerned about the lows staying on with the highs, but I think that's good information for others on the forum who are looking to achieve this. Also, seems like another ballast device that will need to be squeezed in and mounted somewhere in the engine compartment.

I'm just looking to stay as stock as possible, so I want a harness to prevent splicing up my oem usdm side.
 
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