Infiniti G20 Nissan Primera Forum banner

Has your G20 Ever had my skipping/shaking/sputtering problem?

  • Yes

    Votes: 5 33.3%
  • No

    Votes: 6 40.0%
  • Mine still has the problem, I would like it fixed.

    Votes: 1 6.7%
  • I have no idea what you are talking about.

    Votes: 3 20.0%

  • Total voters
    15
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello Forum!

I bought my little 92 G20 in july, paid $850 for it. The car has 162k miles on it and had a rebuilt engine put in it in 2003. Car was a bit dirty and needed a few things. When i got it, I replaced the passenger side cv joint, brake pads, oil & filter, spark plugs & wires, and air filter.

Well it became my everyday car. I noticed right away that when the car got warm the engine would start skipping/skaking/sputtering and act like it wanted to stall between 1k and 2k RPMs when you would lightly accelerate, or like when you were driving around a parking lot or in lots of stop and go traffic. Although when you would get right on the gas the car had plenty of power and did not skip/shake/sputter. Then I talked to some friends who work on cars and they suggested that I try a higher grade of gas. So it did that for about a month and got a tiny bit of improvment, So then my father suggests running a bottle of injector cleaner through it, so i ran two bottles of it in a month's period of time, and that seemed to help dramatically along with still putting higher grade gas in it. I also then changed the fuel filter. Then I decide to start putting the lower grade gas in it again, and that was a mistake because it started with the problem again, So I then continued putting higher grade gas in it and I also had the timing advanced a little bit. The car does fine for the most part, but if i drive a lot in one day it still starts in with the shaking/skipping/sputtering. It has never stalled and you have to drive about 3 hours or more to get it to start in with its little problem.

But what I want to know is what I have to do to get it to stop doing this, it seems the colder its getting outside the less it does it, but when it starts getting warmer out I feel as if i'm done for again. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is or has had this same problem and can tell me what to do to fix it?

Also can anyone tell me where the sensor for the temp guage is located on the engine so that way I can examine the wiring, because the temp guage flutters around a bit when the engine is idleing and when its at higher rpms, if you rev the enging up to about 2500 or 3000 rpms it seems to work, or when the car isnt running and the ignition is in the on position after the car was running it give an accurate reading.

Thanks for all help and advice in advance.

G20 Driver.
 

·
Still learning :D
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
I've read somewhere on this forum that if you're shaking between 1k and 2k; you should clean out your EGR. There's a "how-to" somewhere. Search for it and you're bound to find it :) Some basic maintenance never hurts either. Check your dizzy cap/rotor, spark plugs/wires, and O2 sensors. Reground the MAF, and see how she runs. Hopefully some one more knowledgeable will chime in, but do a little basic maintenance if you haven't already.
 

·
Used to own a P10
Joined
·
5,396 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
hey, do you have any engine codes? check that before changing the EGR. EGR problem would give you a code I think P1400 or something like that. Post the code here if it does show. From what you have said you already have done a tune up and that does not solve the problem. heck some people even suggest tune up to fix a flat tire here! since you know "hey it won't hurt"! That might be true but troubleshoot not randomly change parts that you know how to change.lol....
 

·
Used to own a P10
Joined
·
5,396 Posts
pmaadani said:
hey, do you have any engine codes? check that before changing the EGR. EGR problem would give you a code I think P1400 or something like that. Post the code here if it does show. From what you have said you already have done a tune up and that does not solve the problem. heck some people even suggest tune up to fix a flat tire here! since you know "hey it won't hurt"! That might be true but trouble shoot not randomly change parts that you know how to change.lol....
Realistically, the symptoms here (sputtering, etc.) are in line with what can happen when you need a tuneup, so it's not a terrible suggestion. And you don't need to be throwing a code for something to need cleaning. I was having idle issues with my Subaru, but no codes... cleaned the IAC with Seafoam and the issues went away.

The snide comments are not really necessary...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
pmaadani said:
hey, do you have any engine codes? check that before changing the EGR. EGR problem would give you a code I think P1400 or something like that. Post the code here if it does show anyou. From what you have said you already have done a tune up and that does not solve the problem. lol some people even suggest tune up for a flat tire here! since you know hey it won't hurt! That might be true but trouble shoot not randomly change parts that you know how to change.lol....
yes, the car has already has a tune up and i thought that it would help but nope, lol those tune ups really help with flat tires, i was beginning to think people didnt trust that i gave the car a tune up when they kept suggesting a tune up. i had the timing adjusted/advanced, dont hold me to it but i think that they guy who did it said he advanced it to about 17 degrees maybe even 19, i'll have to dig out the timing light and have a look see, but, lol, i feel like a DA for asking, but can i check the car for engine codes without hooking it up to a computer or bringing it to a parts store, and if so, how?
 

·
Used to own a P10
Joined
·
5,396 Posts
G20 Driver said:
i had the timing adjusted/advanced, dont hold me to it but i think that they guy who did it said he advanced it to about 17 degrees maybe even 19, i'll have to dig out the timing light and have a look see, but, lol, i feel like a DA for asking, but can i check the car for engine codes without hooking it up to a computer or bringing it to a parts store, and if so, how?
If the timing is advanced to 19 degrees, you should really be running premium anyway.

This has ECU reset procedures but also how to check codes:

http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1992&highlight=check+codes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #11

·
Used to own a P10
Joined
·
5,396 Posts
You will have to check for codes BEFORE you reset, because they won't be there afterwards. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Glad you asked that question. I have the same problem.
Hope we get some good suggestions. I just got my 1993 G20. It has 123k on it and I'm wondering how many miles I can expect to get before having to replace the engine or get a new car. Anyone have thoughts on approx how many more miles I can get? I'd like to invest some $$$ into it but am reluctant if its only going to give me a few hundred more miles.
 

·
Used to own a P10
Joined
·
5,396 Posts
My engine lasted over 169,000 miles. I have heard of people with well over 200,000 on their original engines. I have also heard of people who have had to replace their engines after less than 100,000 miles.

It depends on a few factors. The most important one is keeping the engine properly lubricated. Change your oil every 3,000 miles if you use normal oil, and even more often if you do a lot of short, low-speed trips. If you use synthetic oil I'd venture to say you can go a bit longer, but I think 5,000 miles might be stretching it a bit of our old cars. If you do not change your oil enough, especially if it is non-synthetic, you are rpone to sludging, which can cause blockages and kill your engine due to oil starvation. Also check your oil level often -- make sure it's not too high and not too low. It's a good habit to check it every 500 miles or so, but I unfortunately haven't developed that yet. :)

It also depends on your driving style. If you never shift above 3000 rpm, that could contribute to sludging. Modern engines are designed with at least a few pulls to redline every once in a while. However, if you consistently drive high in the rev range, that is also hard on the engine (higher operating temps, which can cause the oil to break down; also, you are liable to wear out various bearings more quickly).

Also keep your engine properly tuned. The knock sensor should prevent against detonation, but you still want to avoid misfires as much as possible. Do a full tuneup about every 60,000 miles, or more often if you drive less.

The problem is you have no idea if the previous owner maintained the engine properly. A member on here bought a 1999 G20 with relatively low mileage, but the previous owner had obviously neglected maintenence. He opened up the valve cover and the inside looked like a nice rich chocolate cake had been dropped in there. :shock: In other words, a ton of sludge. He had to replace the engine.

My engine was fairly well maintained (in my family since new so I know everything was done properly), but after a while it developed a chronic oil leak (about a quart every oil change), worsening lifter tap, etc. The final straw -- it threw a rod.

SR20s are a fairly reliable engine, but like with anything mechanical, YMMV. There are a ton of variables that you have to account for. Personally though, I think G20s are worth it to keep for the long run, so I'd say dump whatever money into it that you need to get it running properly.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top