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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Prior to buying the DL0 car, which I promptly sold, I was looking for a specific P10.

What I was looking for:

1) No Sunroof
2) Manual
3) Pre-93.5
4) Cloth Interior
5) Color other than white, brown, beige. But was hoping for a AG2 or AJ4.
6) Black interior

This car got 5 of 6 things I wanted. The only thing this car was equipped with that I didn't want was the leather interior. Naturally, as with all the leather interiors it seems, it is ripped up. But the rest of the interior is in very good shape.

The previous owner, which only had the car for a few month, told me it had a dent in the rear driver door. I knew of a KH3 door for sale so no biggie there although the dent was not really a dent. I have a picture of it but not on me. I'll upload that later on.

The car ran fine when I started it and test drove it briefly on an his yard, although the clutch was slipping badly along with the alternator belt. All the brakes were fresh and the belts were OEM surprisingly. Flashed some cash and drove it home. Then it developed rod knock, but it made it home which, luckily, was not too far away.

Enough talk here is the car.






While my QN0 car is waiting to get back together, I plan to drive around in this car for a while.

1st thing I did, which was reflected in the photos above, was replacing the rear driver side door.

Next is to get the car running again.
I picked up a '01 RR from a local yard for $200. Claimed mileage is est 61,000 and I was doubly skeptical when I got this




Due to the look of motor I had my doubts. Later I did a free vin check and it seems the last record was in Nov '06 when it was declared salvaged due to a collision. So 8 years on a rack in a warehouse of engines with 60k. OK the look of the engine made a bit more sense. The motor still had Nissan green coolant, oem plugs, wires, belts and cap so more and more the 60k part seems legitimate.

I pulled most of the parts I wouldn't be using...namely intake manifold, heater pipes and disty. I still need to pull the P/S pump. The valve cover cleaned up nicely and most of the engine just has a layer of grime and little to no corrosion so far.

Cleaned the top of the Valve cover. Didn't clean up the spark plug area or the sides yet though.



I don't have a photo, but I did peek in the oil filler and it was dry, but very clean looking. I'll be popping off the VC later on so I can get a better look.

Why a RR? no particular reason other than cost and mileage. But I've also never had one so it also has caught my curiosity.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
December 24-28

I got a considerable amount of work done on the car.

We got off work early and so I worked on the engine. Pulled the VC, oil pans, etc. I changed the front and rear main seals.
From sitting for so long I presume, but there was some sludge build up in the oil pans. The block and head otherwise were pretty clean, nothing out of the ordinary.

I changed the valve springs out for VE ones and did a "mind as well" change of the valve guide seals. From what i saw they really didnt need to be changed. Still pliable and not cracked. I had read on the dash that 00-01 B15s and 00-02 P11s had different cams. Sentras had 240 duration on the intake while P11 had 232. However the P11 had 240 on exhaust and the sentras had 232. In addition the 00 B15 exhaust cam had bit more lift (9.2 vs 8.8). I happened to have a P11 top end and this motor is an 01 B15. So I decided to pair up the B15 intake cam and P11 exhaust cam. I was comparing the cams and it *seemed* the P11 had a 'fatter' lobe....but then again it was late. Later on, I plan to try a set of Tomei Poncams and then an set of S3Rs or vice versa I have sitting on a shelf.

Working on changing the valve springs. Only pic of the inside I took. Sorry it was a busy time period. This was on Christmas day (night).


I was tired and forgot to install 4 valve guide seals...I noticed when I did a parts count after doing two cylinders. I think it was a combination of tired (it was like 1-2am) and just difficult, but I had a hell of a time getting the valve keepers to go in. I got better by cylinder four though. Practice makes perfect, ha.

Engine dressed up, before taking out the old DE. 3 gens of USDM DE parts...RR long block, low port manifold & coolant pipes, high port ignition




Low port TB and RR VC fits like a latex glove.....tight. I did some clearancing of the TB so it wouldn't hit and the plenum would seat properly. Otherwise low port manifold bolts on like it was meant to be there.

Rod knocking biatch...upon closer inspection looks like the trans was opened at one point. Presumably for 5 gear pop-out, but years ago...dirty as fawk though. When I drained the oil it took an amazing long time to do. The pitch black oil was much more thick than the gear oil in the trans, which was relatively clean. So the rod knocking wasn't too surprising.


After taking the motor out I found that both outer tie rod ends were completely shot and the rack bellows were torn. I replaced the outer with good used oem ones I had around and bought new bellows locally. While I was in there, I changed the filter filter as well.

After a lot of work yesterday, I got this far. I primed up the engine oil by removing the fuel pump fuse and used the starter. Took a bit of tries, but I got it primed. All fluids are topped off and ready to go. Its pretty much ready, but I'm missing one part. The part should be ready in a day or two. Can you spot it?



Engine/suspension related parts to change in the near future....

- Rear cross member mount from Loren.
- OEM pass side mount
- Upper UCAs
- Ball joints
- SR16 trans
- Axles
- Flywheel
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here is one of the tie rods. Someone took off the oem boot and replaced it with polyurethane slip on ones. Probably should consider regreasing alot it you change to that style boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, this sucks. Nothing is going like planned....

- Header won't be ready from coating until Monday
- Trans was supposed to show up on the 29th....still not here. Seems to be stuck in Portland.
- Wanted to drop off the old engine for core....wrecking yard is open but won't accept cores until Monday....wtf
- Trans rebuild parts are back ordered from Nissan

I guess lots of stuff to do for next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry, atleast you got other bits for the White P10 :)
Thanks to you, yes :) Didn't do anything on it though.

Got my Impul header back yesterday. This header is also the main reason why I deleted the EGR (no bung for it)


Didn't do much during the holiday on this car...it mostly just sat. Repositioned the rear door a bit more so it closes better and then rewired the cluster to accept the 93.5 cluster. Need to iron out a few bugs in that still though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It lives!

Changed out the collapsed passenger side engine mount with a MT P11 one.


Installed the header, which I was thinking it was a VE one, but it is actually for a DE so it worked out great in this case.


I picked up some gaskets at oreillys that looked like they would work between the IMPUL header's primary & secondary section and it seems I got lucky. I don't know exactly what car these are made for, but the gasket company is ROL Gaskets and part number is EG24826 or FP-60776. The packaging has both p/n on there. So far, knock on wood, these appear to be holding up.

Once I got the above parts changed, I went and fired the car up. On the first attempt, I forgot that I pulled the fuel pump fuse. But the 2nd attempt the engine fired right up :) yay. I'm surprised a lot of people are not interested in the RR...it is a very smooth/quiet sounding engine and seems eager to rev. Undoubtedly, part of that is due to the 4cw crankshaft. I have my doubts of installing a lightened flywheel now. Did not drive it far and did not rev too high (5k), but the engine has good power even on the higher geared early P10 box! I don't know if it is mostly because of the lighter chassis, or mods, or just the engine but it felt good. I did not have particularly high expectations, but I was impressed :)

One of the eye opening things that happened though is the temp gauge. I had the car hooked to my laptop via the consult port so i could tell, but when the engine was at 80*C, the temp gauge showed that the engine was overheating. So the lesson here is that if you swap clusters out, you need to change the temp sender for the gauge as well. I checked with Infiniti and sure enough the part numbers were different between 91-93 and 93.5-96.

So far no oil or coolant leaks. But it does have a problem with high idle. Will sometime idle at 950-1000, but most of the time 1200-1300rpms after warmed up. Cold it revs around 2000. I think its a vacuum leak, but can't find any easy ones. I need to look into it and see what I can find. After a search, i found a few people with the exact same issue, but no one posted a solution :(
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got one leak fixed. PCV valve :thumbsdow

Instead of 1200-1300, now I am at 950-1100, but still the idle screw is cranked down. Plenty of people had the Air Regulator Valve leak, so I tested it but disconnecting it from the manifold and plugging the holes...and no change.
TPS swapped, no change. I think it might be the plenum gasket. The IACV I am using was the one on my QN0 car which idled fine, so I can't believe that its the problem, but if it comes down to it I'll test it out.

A/F alpha on consult shows 109% and the IACV is at 10% duty, its minimum value from what I am aware. I'm pretty sure its a vacuum leak and not electronics issue....
 

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CH0DEmobile
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Poor grounding will also cause your temp gauge to read high, although I think you've correctly diagnosed your particular issue. Vacuum leaks around the fuel rail are common. I've left out a plastic spacer and run into a similar issue. Also check for the extra bolt in the inlet manifold next to the stud and water outlet on the front of the engine.
 

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CH0DEmobile
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Lemme know what you think about the brakes compared to your 94. I went from a 95 to a 93 and I really dislike the smaller MC + early ABS.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Poor grounding will also cause your temp gauge to read high, although I think you've correctly diagnosed your particular issue. Vacuum leaks around the fuel rail are common. I've left out a plastic spacer and run into a similar issue. Also check for the extra bolt in the inlet manifold next to the stud and water outlet on the front of the engine.
Thanks for the suggestions Brian :) The injector grommets are in rough shape to be honest and knew it going in I have a huge order with Greg at gspec and most of that order seems to be BO and the grommets are part of that order. I've been spraying wd-40 and brake cleaner around and can't seem to find the leak yet. I'll check out the bolt you suggested near the oil filter. I can definitely hear a leak in that vicinity.

Yes! The brake feel is totally different between the cars. I was thinking there was something wrong with one of them...The 92 has an abrupt feel in the pedal (and stiff?) and the 93.5/94 feels more like a normal car imo.

P.S.
I haven't consolidated my notes yet, but I was going to comment on your thread about the 91-93 to 93.5+ cluster swap. I used it to help do the swap.
 

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Yeah upgrade the early master to a later one. Then if you don't want to put the stock wheels back on get some p11/maxima brakes. 11" front and rear.
 

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The figure it out guy...
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I have oem p11 calipers with carrier brackets and brake lines and some oem disks and pads ill sell you ;)
 

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CH0DEmobile
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Thanks for the suggestions Brian :) The injector grommets are in rough shape to be honest and knew it going in I have a huge order with Greg at gspec and most of that order seems to be BO and the grommets are part of that order. I've been spraying wd-40 and brake cleaner around and can't seem to find the leak yet. I'll check out the bolt you suggested near the oil filter. I can definitely hear a leak in that vicinity.

Yes! The brake feel is totally different between the cars. I was thinking there was something wrong with one of them...The 92 has an abrupt feel in the pedal (and stiff?) and the 93.5/94 feels more like a normal car imo.

P.S.
I haven't consolidated my notes yet, but I was going to comment on your thread about the 91-93 to 93.5+ cluster swap. I used it to help do the swap.
MC upgrade is a must! I am likely going with an Altima 1" from an ABS car to compliment the 300ZX calipers I have laying around.

I am glad to hear my thread was helpful. :D I never actually went through with the swap, though. Got lazy and bought a speedo cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've got the master from my 94 around here somewhere. I put a Altima 1" in that car with A32 bits.

WeazG20 - thanks for the offer but I'll pass this time.

Brake upgrades will come after teh broken is fixed ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Jan 10, 11

Got a bit more done on the car and felt it was safe enough to drive home :)

I P10 showed up in the yard that was a base base car and it was a 96, so I took the headliner, fenders, good bondo-less door, throttle cable and some little bits.

Put the car up on the rack yesterday checked out the brakes/suspension. I know the UCAs were done and the ball joints have torn boots, otherwise the front end was ok. The rear, somehow, had badly warpped rotors. I kept the rotor/pad set from the QN0 car and swapped it this car. I also noticed the wheel bearing was a little noisy on the driver rear, so I took care of that with again from spares I had.

I fixed the issues I had with the gauge cluster and that was the airbag light and I had the seat belt and brake light wiring backwards. The airbag light it seems needs to be removed from it socket or it remains lit.

The driver side exterior door handle's nut was missing so I replaced that and then changed the door panel to the touring stuff as those were mint. When I changed the rear driver door I didn't put the door panel back on, so I took the time to finish it off, again with a touring panel.

Spent some time and also installed the TB-MAF portion of a Injen CAI that I had on the QN0 car about 10+ years ago and swapped the throttle cable to the lowport one as well. I do not do cosmetic mods too often, but I had bought an IMPUL grille around 2005-ish. I never installed it on the QN0 car as the grille is black. This car has an IMPUL header and it is black, so what better car to use the IMPUL grille on :)



It looks good, and fitment isn't horrid, but all the coolness that the grille provides is lost in the crappiness of the paint on the car :(

Speaking of crappiness...


Run into bumpers much?? Must of been a city car....

Anyway, I drove the car home and boy it is a hoot to drive :) After about 5-6k power drops off fast, but it has good lowend. The roads were wet yesterday, so if I laid into even a little bit the tires spun. Looks like the weather will dry out the roads a bit today though :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Weight Post

Here is part of the *planned* mission for this car....to get it light as I could without going full racecar and still look like a normal day to day car.

So I hope to weigh parts that I remove and add to help keep track. Unfortunately, I do not have the weights of the engines, although I have a feeling the RR is a bit lighter.
Hopefully in the near future I will get the car itself scaled so I know where I stand.

Weights - scale weighs in 2oz increments

Removed
- Cruise Control Actuator & vacuum pump - 1lbs 14oz
- AIV valve, AIV intake hose and resonator & IGN coil with bracket - 5lbs 6oz
- Oil seperator - 1lbs 6oz
- OEM Air box, snorkel, MAF - 5lbs 0oz
- Intake tube & resonator - 2lbs 6oz
- DE W/P pulley - 0lbs 6oz
- OEM Grille - 1lbs 6oz
- Exhaust Manifold with EGR&AIV Pipe and downpipe 26lbs 4oz
- High Port engine - ??
- 92 FSM - 2lbs 2oz
- 92 User manual and pouch - 1lbs 6oz
- Unused Spare - 14lbs 6oz
- Jack and tools - 6lbs 2oz
- 92 Pump and filter - 1lbs 6oz
- 3rd Brake light - 1lbs 2oz
- 92 Rear deck - 4lbs 6oz
- 92 Rear Speakers - 1lbs 12oz
- 92 Front Speakers w/brackets - 2lbs 10oz
- 92 Tape deck radio - 4lbs 2oz
- 92 OEM wheels and tire - 132lbs 8oz
- 92 G20 Steering Wheel - 6lbs 4oz
- 92 G20 A/C - 44lbs 14oz
- Vibration dampner on rad support - 6lbs 10oz
- Sound deadening tar & jute padding - 36lbs 4oz
- Antenna cable - 0lbs 8oz
- Rear heat ducts - 1lbs 4oz
- 92 Trunk Mat, 4lbs 0oz.
- 92 front seats 83lbs 4oz
- Lap belts, seat belt ecu, misc brackets related to the seat belt conversion was 5lbs 0oz
- Front seat belt tracks were 9lbs 4oz* need to reweigh them.
- ASCD computer, Theft computer and rear speaker amp, 2lbs 2oz
- Center seat belt, 0lbs 12oz
- 92 OEM Front Bumper & support (no fog lights), 31lbs 0oz
- 92 Fender well intake resonator, 1lbs 10oz
- 92 OEM Rear Bumper, 40lbs 10oz
- Brake Dust shields (both), 1lbs 2oz
- AGX F/R Shocks&Struts with OEM Springs, 61lbs 8oz
- 92 UCA (Both), 6lbs 12oz
- Stock Flywheel with exedy OEM replacement clutch - 28lbs 2oz
- Cable Clutch pedal, brackets, cable, etc - 6lbs 4oz
- 92 P10 MT Trans - 79lbs 12oz
- 92 P10 MT Trans mount - 5lbs 2oz
- 92 P10 trans frame rail bracket, harness connector bracket, LP pass side manifold bracket - 3lbs 4 oz
- P10 Cross Member w/mounts - 12lbs 10oz
- Power Steering (except for small part of the high pressure hardline)- 16lbs 2oz
- 92 P10 rear sway bar - 6 lbs 10 oz
- 92 Crankshaft - 37lbs 12oz
- 92 Alternator harness - 0lbs 8oz
- Alternator - 15lbs 2oz
==================
Total weight removed: 763lbs 4oz

Installed
- VE W/P Pulley - 0lbs 8oz
- JWT POP Charger, Injen TB-MAF tube with MAF - 4lbs 14oz
- IGN Coil with Aluminum mount bracket - 1lbs 14oz
- FRP Mesh Grille - 1lbs 2oz
- IMPUL Header - 10lbs ? (guessimate, will weigh later)
- RR Crankshaft - 30lbs 12oz
- 94 touring rear deck w/ sound deadening - 4lbs 0oz
- 190lph Walbro w/ filter - 1lbs 0oz
- Desmond Regamaster EVOs 15x6.5 and 205/50-15 tires - 115lbs 0oz
- S13 SE Steering wheel - 5lbs 4oz
- 94+ trunk mat is 1lbs 10oz
- 93.5+ Seat belts with brackets, 9lbs 8oz
- B13 SE-R seats, 67lbs 8oz
- JDM TE Bumper with support and fogs, 21lbs 10oz
- JDM TM/TS/Ci/Cu bumper with support, 18lbs 2oz
- Cusco UCA (both), 7lbs 12oz
- Fortune Auto 500 coil overs, 45lbs 2oz
- Comp Clutch flywheel, JWT Pressure plate & B15 disc - 22lbs 0oz
- P11 Hydro Clutch set up w/o damper - 6lbs 6oz
- 99 P11 trans w/ 4.437 FD & MFactory HLSD - 87lbs 6oz
- 99 P11 MT Trans Mount - 3lbs 14oz
- 02 P11 trans frame rail mount - 12oz
- P11 Cross member w/mount - 13lbs 2oz
- Rear mount S13 Alternator - 13lbs 10oz
- Addco rear sway bar - 10lbs 14oz
- Modified alternator harness & grounds - 1lbs 8oz
==================
Total weight added: 495lbs 14oz

Current approximate weight savings: 267lbs 6oz

Items of note:
- Door Cards between 91-93.5 and 94-96 weight is slightly different due to the lack of carpet on the bottom of the 94-96 models, but not measurable on my scale. 94-96 is slightly lighter. Front door cards are approx 6lbs and the rears are 3lbs 4oz.
-94+ rear deck. The 94+ rear deck is lighter than the 91-93 (not sure of 93.5) due to less sound deadening and 2 less clips/retainers. Without sound deadening, the touring rear deck is probably the heaviest as it has the most material otherwise.
 
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