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Discussion Starter #201
So I haven't messed with the coilovers since and I haven't driven the car either except from the lift to its parking spot. It was not as stiff as I thought it would be with 8k/6k, but again it was moved only for maybe 100ft.

Eventually here I hope to swap out the motor and drop the RR motor into the P11 I have. I'm hopeful I can do this over the winter...I also decided that I am going to remove the JWT pressure plate and swap it out with a OEM one. Hopefully that will also help remedy the engagement on the clutch as well. Being that at the moment I have no intent on going turbo with this car and the motor with just bolt ons, I dont think I'll need the heavier clutch. So rather than over clutch I'll go with the lighter pedal :)
 

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Discussion Starter #202
OK, so since I broke my other P10.....

I tweaked this one a little bit :)

I adjusted the clutch engagement by removing that spacer thing in between the slave and bellhousing. Feels better than it did before.

Then thought it should be time to adjust the ride height....I measured what i had up front from the fender lip to the top of the tire. Roughly 1.5" of gap. I had roughly 3" in the back. So then measured the rear coilover from the bottom of the perch lock rings to the top of the knuckle bracket lock ring. 4.25" there so subtracted the 1.5" to get 2.75" and that is what I adjusted the rear too. Gap ended up being approx 1.75" but close enough for me. Now for an alignment, but I think I'll swap out the Cusco UCAs with regular ones....and save the Cusco ones for the original white car.

Couple of pics.

 

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Discussion Starter #203
So drove it home....8k/6k isn't insane....I wish I got the same rates for the other car too. Its need more damping, I don't know what setting they are at shipped, but it wouldn't be as bouncy i think. I will have to mess with it soon. Has a great ride other wise :)

 

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The best way to do this, is once you get it all setup how you want it, remove the shocks, measure them and calculate what preloaders you need. Then install and adjust for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Ok a bit of progress or at least the start of progress.

I bought a JDM motor a while back


and I plan to put it in this car. From the research I have done, this is an engine from a N15 Autech Pulsar (Lucino)...this the engine Autech N15s had before Autech's N1 version debut with the SR16VE. Outside of some small stuff, the engine is relatively stock. The header is not the original as this vintage Autech had a cast manifold. The P10 Autech from what I had read used HKS's 4-1 manifold. This probably explains the power difference of 180ps for the p10 and 175ps for the n15.

Anyway, I dragged it out of storage, removed the trans and got the engine on the stand. Over the next few weeks I hope to remove all the unnecessary stuff, and reseal the usual suspects before getting it in the car. I will need to modify the IACV on the manifold a bit as the rear mounted Alternator and the highport intake manifold what to occupy the same space. For now I plan to use the Autech ECU as well. I was planning on using the trans, but I forgot I changed the trans mount on this car to the p11 style one. The gear ratios are the same between the trans in the car (SE-R gears), but the final drives are different. The box I have in the car is 4.437 while the Autech used the T4's 4.375 final.

I was really hoping the trans had an aftermarket LSD in it, but no dice. The clutch was a used up oem clutch, but some weird springs in it. I need to look up the part number for the flywheel to see if they are different with the regular DEs.



Anyway on the engine stand and waiting for the next step:lick:
 

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Discussion Starter #208
The next step.

So this weekend. I stripped the engine down to just the long block & intake manifold. After that I removed the RR from the car



Thanks for your service RR! You are not as bad as people make you out to be! lol

So for now, the car will be engineless until I get to installing the JDM hotness :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #209
So I've been working on this car over the past month.

I rebuilt the transmission with a new 1st gear so it can accept a double synchro assembly. This apparently wasn't introduced in the 32 series trans until 99. This trans is from a 98 B14 IIRC. So since the 1st gear swap requires the removal of all the pieces on the mainshaft anyway I replaced all the synchros as well. So I did that and have a couple pics to share for later.

Over the last couple weeks I have been working on the engine. The front cover, oil pans had been leaking some oil so since it is out of the car I decided to reseal them. I had a 20v oil pump rolling around and decided to swap it as well. I learned the hard way that to use the 20v pick up/strainer you have to use 20v oil pans (which look the same as RR oil pans, not sure if they are exact or not). I didn't have a p11 ve oil pick up (which from my understanding will work with regular DE oil pans) and I didnt want to redo the front cover again so I opted to remove the girdle and use the 20v oil pans I had. I happened to have a new set of RR main bolts so out went the girdle. It works out in the end I needed a girdle with another build I am planning to do anyway. Also went ahead and changed the water pump out as it looked like it might have been leaking.

So maybe next weekend I can get most of the engine put back together...I'm still devising a plan on how to handle the rear mount alternator with the highport manifold....it is definitely a tight fit in that area but shouldn't be impossible.

Slow progress, but hopefully I'll have this beastie on the road again next month.
 

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You using an s13 case on the alternator? That is what I was going to do, but now that I think about it, I wonder if the steering will be in the way. I may need to swap to one of the tiny ones just because of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #211
I am using an s13 alternator. I clearance most of the manifold, but I'm going to have to remote mount the IACV. A smaller alternator would be much easier with this swap, maybe allowing you to have the IACV in the stock location.

Steering components are not in the way there's enough room. Naturally the P/S pump is gone so frees up a lot of real estate in that area (I also removed the lines). The car was that way with the RR in it so I know it works....its just the highport manifold. Its hard to see, but you can see the alt in the attached in the photo a couple posts up.
 

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Steering components are not in the way there's enough room. Naturally the P/S pump is gone so frees up a lot of real estate in that area (I also removed the lines). The car was that way with the RR in it so I know it works....its just the highport manifold. Its hard to see, but you can see the alt in the attached in the photo a couple posts up.
Your steering wheel, and brake master, etc. is on the other side ;)
 

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You could try the case from a non sr 01 sentra. On the 1.8. The mount on the case is more center than the s13. Which will make it sit lower but it is slightly bigger. But on mine it gives for less belt tension adjustment. Have to try a few different belts in oreillys parking lot. Also need a few washers or a spacer because mount width is about 7/8 inch thinner.
 

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Discussion Starter #216
Yessir, still working on 'em.

Speaking of which there has been an update. over the past couple weekends.

- Got the engine all bolted up and ready to go
- Installed the trans, clutch and header bolted on as well. Should be ready to get dropped in.
- I decided to just block off the IACV for now and try the crack the throttle open a bit routine. I am hoping that maybe with a functioning High idle valve thingamajig, no A/C, no P/S that it would be livable. If not, I'll devise a remote IACV set up.

I do have a couple things on the car side to do. I switched the throttle cable out for the lowport one when I had the RR in there so, I will need to change that back to the highport style. I will be using the Autech ecu, so I will also need to swap the nismotronic out. I'm sure there are more things to do, but since its been over a year I'll have to jog my memory once I get started on the car part of things.
 

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Discussion Starter #217 (Edited)
So the deed is done. Got 'er done. Swapped the Autech ECU & Throttle cable in. Removed the remnants of the P/S lines since the engine was out.

everything went pretty well and staright forward. Had a few hiccups though. Battery wasn't fully charged, so it had a hard time turning the engine over to prime the oil. Had a couple of vacuum leaks to plug up to get it to idle and stop idle hunting. I forgot to plug one vacuum line for the evap canister behind the TB and the fuel pressure regulator was leaking like a sieve. Then the one I swapped to also had a leak which was worse. I eventually dug up the Nismo FPR I had on old lowport manifold that was on the RR I had in this car. Fixed that problem, but had to patch the fuel line off of that as it cracked.

After I set the idle to 950rpms (via the adjustment screw on the TB plate) I tried to time it. I'm guessing the VE pulley I had, has a slipped outer ring and the marks don't line up at all, nor can I see them. So I set the timing based off disty position of 19*. According to an under hood sticker I found for a P10 Autech the base idle is 950rpms and timing is 20* using the Autech ECU.

So I went to drive the car and noticed that the clutch wasn't engaging at all...end up the oem pressure plate needed the pedal readjusted. With the JWT PP, I needed all the adjustment I could get and the oem pp needed it adjusted back a bit so it would let the clutch engage. I was getting pretty worried that I messed up the trans, but happy that it was just the pedal that needed adjusting.

Without the IACV, the engine behaves quite well since the car doesn't have A/C or P/S. The electric loads doesn't seem to affect the idle too much, the 950rpm idle no doubt helps. Although haven't tried it with headlights and defrost on. That will be the true test imo. The engine is however quite cranky until it warms up....I was hoping the air regulator valve under the plenum would work its magic, it does, but it doesn't. Having that said last I messed with the engine cold was when I still had the vacuum leak from the FPR.

The engine has the upper portion of a Place Racing highport intake, ASP budget header, 20v Oil pump and pans, girdle delete and the rest is all Autech. Car is pretty gutsy imo compared to the 20v car. Its kind of unfair to compare to the 20v car as it is so much heavier than this one though as that is a loaded touring car. The roads were wet so I haven't had a chance to feel it out completely yet, as the wheels would break loose. I have to register the car as well, the tabs expired last April :dead:

Here is a vid of it idling. You can tell it has a lumpier cam in it.
https://youtu.be/22xhK2D3_bQ

Next up:

- Swap Fujitsubo exhaust from 20v car to this car.
- ROM dump the ECU.
- Swap the Nismotronic back in
 

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Discussion Starter #219 (Edited)
Respect. Looking and sounding good. When you get the Nismotronic back in, are you bringing back the IACV?
I might have to. The air regulator thing does give the car a high idle when cold, but its not enough to combat the other cold engine stuff it seems. If you rev it and let it settle down it wants to stall and sometimes does until the engine is warm. But we'll see.

I tried it out on a short stretch of road today (as it is dry right now, but not for long), great power from 2500+ Haven't done a redline pull yet but kinda feels like a bigger motor. Autech seemed to know what they were doing when they put this combo together. I need to fiddle with the clutch adjustment a bit more or consider a swapping the JWT PP back in. I was hoping the OEM PP would hold it but with the LSD, summer tires and power it seems like it might be slipping.

Also other soon upgrades would be some body upgrades so it will look the part too.

Autech wing, TE rear bumper, Nismo grille and Autech lip. The only part not black is the lip as it was from Colin and so its still silver. Only part I'm waiting on are side skirts.
 

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Discussion Starter #220
Decided to get some of the Autech on the car...removed the touring spoiler and buffed the paint


Didn't get any photos, but I did install the rear Te Bumper along with the park bench!



The Autech ECU ROM is being dumped as we speak. Hopefully I'll get the Nismotronic back in soon. After toying with the car the last few days, I definitely want to get the IACV back in. Its too much racecar in the cold. Just doesn't like running well until it heats up.
 
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