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I decided to install a 4 channel Alpine Amp in my car this past weekend, opting to keep the stock head unit and wiring for now. Of course, that would be the weekend that G20.net dissapears! I couldn't remember how to get the seats out (even though I've done it before when I replaced all the speakers 3 months ago). Alas, I solved my problem and realized that NOBODY had ever bothered to blueprint the wiring/multipin connectors on these systems.


So I sketched up a quick diagram of the units, for all here to enjoy. Wiring colors are too confusing, because there are 32 basic color combos, then each combo has 1,2 or 3 sliver "stripes" to designate it. If you need to know which is which, trace the wire back to the connector.

I pulled apart the front channel amps, and split off the signal to go to the Alpine, which would power the front door speakers, while the stock amp would happily continue to drive the tweets in the A pillars. Then I bypassed the back amp entirely. After all was said and done, I powered it all up, and everything worked. But it all sounded like ass. See, when I replaced the fullrange speakers in the rear deck a while back, everything sounded SUPER trebley. I realized the amps had acoustic compensation built in (EQ) to make the crap speakers sound better. Only prob is, with decent 3 way speakers (6.5's, in this case) it's ALL TREBLE. So I bought the alpine to remedy the problem. Little did I expect the HEAD UNIT to sound like shit, too! I plugged a discman into the Alpine to feed it signal to confirm my suspicions, and yes, the head unit sucked. So, it was off to Best Buy the next morning to buy a AIWA thing that does this tranformer number. (I needed it to look somewhat decent, and all the sony kit was Silver) And has 45Wx4. Wow, what a difference! The alpine is standing by, for now. I needed to go to Dallas to see Rush (a friend got me killer tickets) and didn't have time to make it all work. Eventually the Alpine (35x4) will drive the tweets (it has a crossover built in) on 2 channels, and a sub on the 3/4 channel. After all that work documenting the stock wiring, I bypassed it all and ran new wiring to the speakers. Hopefully this info will save someone hours of frustration.
 

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FREAKIN FINALLY!!!! Thanks for posting that. I've searched all around for this. Some assholes keep telling me to rerun the wires (ghetto style) or search some more for a diagram. Thanks.
 

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Ed - i'm probly just as new to this as you are - but i also promise that you that everyone on this board is in this to help you. If you are bypassing your amps - this diagram will help you cut and splice the correct wires for your speakers. Thus, in essense, you'll be performing the "ghetto amp bypass" that you mentioned. The only other way to bypass your amps, that I know of, is to run fresh speaker wire from your speakers to your HU or your aftermarket amp (whichever you'll be using to power you amps). I promise you we aren't assholes - you've been asked to search, b/c this information is already on the board. Good luck - hope you don't think we're all assholes for asking you to search, or offering answers.
 
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Hey man, nice diagram. Thats a great edition to the audio section of g20.net, but i think you should upload this to your gallery. That we its insured that we wont lose this from the server its on right now. just my 2.

Great job man.
 

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I redid the wiring and it doesn't work :( Do you have a diagram with the colors??? I need to double check what I did. Otherwise it looks like I'm gonna have to run wires all over my car :(
 

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which amp is the back amp, and which wires do youconnect to bypass them
 

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Wiring I've worked out from a 94 FSM


Not sure about the grounds, afaik it's grounded through the chassis of the radio, so ????




 

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Mack Damon said:
See, when I replaced the fullrange speakers in the rear deck a while back, everything sounded SUPER trebley. I realized the amps had acoustic compensation built in (EQ) to make the crap speakers sound better. Only prob is, with decent 3 way speakers (6.5's, in this case) it's ALL TREBLE.
is this true? can someone confirm? I'm planning to buy some used polks or alpines to cheaply replace my blown stock rears and I want to be able to use the stock amps. is it actually a flat EQ curve, or was he right? also, what about the amp for the front? does it have EQ compensation too?
 

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I'd look for some cheap OEM replacements at www.partsexpress.com or something before getting using polks or alpines - they won't like the power coming out of the stock amps.

I do not know if the amps are eq'ed to act like that though, sounds kind of weird, but maybe i guess. Also remember that the stock speakers are 2 ohms, and the amps are designed to drive 2 ohm speakers.
 

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Mack Damon said:
I decided to install a 4 channel Alpine Amp in my car this past weekend, opting to keep the stock head unit and wiring for now. Of course, that would be the weekend that G20.net dissapears! I couldn't remember how to get the seats out (even though I've done it before when I replaced all the speakers 3 months ago). Alas, I solved my problem and realized that NOBODY had ever bothered to blueprint the wiring/multipin connectors on these systems.

So I sketched up a quick diagram of the units, for all here to enjoy. Wiring colors are too confusing, because there are 32 basic color combos, then each combo has 1,2 or 3 sliver "stripes" to designate it. If you need to know which is which, trace the wire back to the connector.

I pulled apart the front channel amps, and split off the signal to go to the Alpine, which would power the front door speakers, while the stock amp would happily continue to drive the tweets in the A pillars. Then I bypassed the back amp entirely. After all was said and done, I powered it all up, and everything worked. But it all sounded like ass. See, when I replaced the fullrange speakers in the rear deck a while back, everything sounded SUPER trebley. I realized the amps had acoustic compensation built in (EQ) to make the crap speakers sound better. Only prob is, with decent 3 way speakers (6.5's, in this case) it's ALL TREBLE. So I bought the alpine to remedy the problem. Little did I expect the HEAD UNIT to sound like shit, too! I plugged a discman into the Alpine to feed it signal to confirm my suspicions, and yes, the head unit sucked. So, it was off to Best Buy the next morning to buy a AIWA thing that does this tranformer number. (I needed it to look somewhat decent, and all the sony kit was Silver) And has 45Wx4. Wow, what a difference! The alpine is standing by, for now. I needed to go to Dallas to see Rush (a friend got me killer tickets) and didn't have time to make it all work. Eventually the Alpine (35x4) will drive the tweets (it has a crossover built in) on 2 channels, and a sub on the 3/4 channel. After all that work documenting the stock wiring, I bypassed it all and ran new wiring to the speakers. Hopefully this info will save someone hours of frustration.
You are my HERO! Why is this NOT a STICKY?!
 

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Just to point out that Mark's 94 FSM wire diagram has an error carried over from the FSM, which you can see if you think about the speaker wires coming out of the radio. The Rt Frt speaker wires are pink and blue (not purple and lt green). Got corrected in the later FSM for 95-96. See my post on retrofitting.
 

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lysander said:
Just to point out that Mark's 94 FSM wire diagram has an error carried over from the FSM, which you can see if you think about the speaker wires coming out of the radio. The Rt Frt speaker wires are pink and blue (not purple and lt green). Got corrected in the later FSM for 95-96. See my post on retrofitting.
just to point out
this threads like 1 yr old
:teeth:
 

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Does anybody have the wire scheme for the 99 G20? Need to install my amp soon because having a stereo less system is extremely BORING! :dead:
 

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I'm bumping an old thread... but I just wanted to say THANK YOU!!! I installed my amp today simply by soldering the leads of the RCA cables to the "in" wires on the rear amp... and it sounds absolutely awesome! No inline converter, no nothing; just straight up connections.
 
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