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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
We are trying to get the upper oil pan off, and can't get it off!! It's a pain in the ass! We tried screwing in the transmission bolt, but it's way too hard to screw in, and doesn't seem like it's the right size. We are working on it right now as I write this
 

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Koojo said:
We are trying to get the upper oil pan off, and can't get it off!! It's a pain in the ass! We tried screwing in the transmission bolt, but it's way too hard to screw in, and doesn't seem like it's the right size. We are working on it right now as I write this
Hold on! Make sure you remove the two nuts that are behind the flywheel cover plate. A friend found out the hard way :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ya we got the downpipe off by cutting the nuts with a dremel, that took about 3 hours, it was a pain in the ass.........

we finally got the upper pan off!!!! I got pictures later.

Now we gotta go rent the drill and drill the block after we eat some foooooood!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well....Day 3 has come to an end at exactly 8:50PM. A full 12 hours worth of work, minus about 2 hours I spent eating and at the hardware store.....it has become a very succesful 3rd day. I have A LOT of pics to show you guys, and I will write about this more after I go take a shower and eat some food. Check back in a little bit!
 

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Sounds good, let us know of your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
DAY THREE

We began this morning by taking braking apart the nuts that held the downpipe to the cat. There are 2 nuts, and they have welded themselves onto the studs, and it's near impossible to remove them without cutting them. We used a dremel, and about 2 hours later, the downpipe was off. We also disconnected the rear O2 sensor, using a 7/8" wrench.

We removed the front passanger side wheel to give us more space. We put a jack under the transmission, and with 2 blocks of wood, we lifted the transmission a few cm, so when we remove the front motor mount (need to do this in order to remove the upper oil pan), the tranny wouldn't lean over and harm the rear motor mount. Anyway, we unbolted the front motor mount, and started taking out all the bolts on the upper oil pan. We then got stuck....the pan wouldn't come off. We thought we tried everything, until I stuck a very sharp screw driver into the side of the oil pan, and began to hammer it into the where the upper oil pan meets the block. You will see this in the pictures. Anyway, we put one of the transmission bolts into the designated hole on the oil pan to pry it off, but it wouldn't screw in far enough. My dad had a wonderful idea of putting a cut bolt inside the hole, and then screwing the transmission bolt into it, which finally, after taking the screwdriver to many parts of the oil pan, we finally got it off like 2 hours later.

We cleaned off all the surfaces that had the old sealant on there, so when we go to put them back on, we wouldn't have to worry about it. I went to Home Depot, and rented a right angle drill (as seen in the pictures). We had to move the radiator up a little bit, and the drill fit perfectly....well worth the $20 it cost to rent, rather then having to drain the coolant if I were to remove the radiator completely. After we drilled, which was rather simple, but required 2 people (one drilling and one at the bottom pushing on the drill head). We were done like 20 min later because we wanted to make sure we got it perfect, and then we tapped the hole.

Also, I found the oil pressure sending unit, and added a T in there for the oil for the turbo. All the threads will receive a good coat of silicone tomorrow. We also did a few other things, like cut the EGR tube, and clean the oil pans all nice and good, because there was a lot of sticky oil residu stuck to the walls of the upper oil pan (nasty stuff). I also put Tee's into the brake booster line for the BOV and the boost gauge. Well anyway, I guess I'll stop talking and show you the pics of Day Three:

AHHH, don't you love looking at YOUR engine bay?
Dad and I thinking of where to start
Me firing up the Dremel
Taking out the upper oil pan
I'm hard at work, trying to get the oil pan out
Mike unbolting something, while my dad pulls down on the cross member
Upper Oil Pan
Right-angle drill
My dad with the big ass drill
Drilling the block
Drilling the block 2
Hole drilled
Tapping the block
Tapping the block 2 (my gramps stopped by and gave a few tugs at the wrench)
Oil Return installed
This is why you have to remove the oil pans...
Me taking a break
Stock downpipe...all damaged and is starting to crack for some reason.....only a 4 year old car!!!
Mike trying to get the oil pressure sending unit out
Oil pressure sending unit, with the Tee (from JGY) installed
Tee'd the oil pressure sending unit
Exhaust manifold removed
EGR tube cut
Tee in the brake booster line for the boost gauge
Tee in the brake booster line for the BOV
Stock 2000 G20 Fuel pump
My work station at night after some cleaning
A BIG thumbs up for the night!

Done Today:
Dropped the Upper Oil pan (Pain in the ASS!)
Cleaned the oil pans and the mating sufaces
Cut EGR Tube (which we will be adding another tube to run to the downpipe)
Drilled and tapped the block
Removed and Tee'd the oil sending unit (REAL Pain in the ASS!)
Put a Tee into the brake booster line for the BOV and the Boost gauge.
 

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Damn looking great dude, did you guys drill the hole with any threading? I didnt see any thats why im asking. If you didnt, how did you get it to stay (maybe made the hole a little smaller and tapped the slightly bigger nipple in there tight?).
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Ya we drilled the hole with the 23/32 drill, and then tapped the hole with the 1/2 NPT tap.

Shit I was just tightening my lower oil pan, and broke one of the bolts off. At least there are like 11 other bolts up there or something, to hold the fucker up, haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Day Four

This morning I put sealant on the upper oil pan, and attached it to the block. The baffle plate came next, and then the lower oil pan. After I was finished with that, we fitted the turbo in (check out pics), but the AC line was in the way. We decided to unscrew the bolt holding the screw down, so maybe we could turn the line, but no luck, it wouldn't turn. Just as we go to put the bolt back, the line forcefully came out (AC lines are under extreme pressure), and hit Mike in the Jaw, while I, scared to death by the noise when it almost hit me in the face, jolted out of the car. All the AC fluid came out, and the pressure was gone....no AC! I guess I'll get it recharged at some point. Anyway, we fitted the manifold, and it went right in. We tapped into the heater hoses, and ran hoses to the turbo. Also ran a hose for the turbo in, and turbo out, and connected everything up.

Then....came the shittest part of the whole install......taking out the intake manifold to replace the injectors. It was a COMPLETE, I repeat...COMPLETE, pain in my body. It's very hard to remove the intake mani on a RR engine...I found that out today. Some of the bolts I was able to reach from the bottom of the car. When we took it out, like 3 hours later or something, we went to work on the fuel rail. We soon had it out, and I put in the MSD injectors, and they fit right in. I took out the injector harness, and brought it home, so I could solder the MSD clips into them.

Got done Today:
Reinstalled upper and lower oil pans
Fitted turbo/manfold/elbow
Put the fans back to make sure they fit fine (it's snug, but fits perfect)
Took off the intake manifold
Took off the fuel rail
Replaced injectors

Tomorrow:
Solder MSD clips into the injector harness
Extend the front O2 sensor wires by about a foot (to reach the exhaust elbow)
hopefully be able to put the fuel rail, harness, and the intake manifold back in
Start working on the IC piping
And then other stuff

Bottom oil pan with sealant gasket
Upper oil pan and baffle plate installed
Manifold gasket on
Getting ready to put the turbo on
AC fluid spill
AC line disconnected (which caused the spill)
Me cleaning up the AC spill mess
AC hose shot again
Turbo installed
Me working on the exhaust manifold
Heater lines Tee'd
Heater lines with hoses
Fans fit perfectly
Taking off the throttle body
Taking off the fuel rail bolts
Fuel rail with stock injectors (with one MSD injector on the end)
Stock RR injector vs. MSD 38lb/hr injector
Stock RR injector clip vs. MSD injector clip
There are 2 wires coming out of each injector clip (a black one, or almost black, and a colored one)
MSD injectors installed
Another MSD injectors in fuel rail
RR injector harness
Front O2 sensor, injector harness, MSD clips
 

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Oh wow, I was checking out all the pictures while you were switching hosts Koojo lol. I was wondering why some of them were acting funny.

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Well its 3pm now, and the injectors are in, and the intake manifold is back on. Next are the IC pipes.....almost done :)
 

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Nice bro! The hard parts are now finished! The IC pipes takes a little figuring out, but other than that it will be fine! Im sure youve got everything written out. Have you connected the SAFC II yet? Im proud of you man! Make sure that EGT gauge is connected after everything is running smoothly!=) I cant wait to do mines now:beard:
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I know SAFCII has been connected for about 2 weeks now and it works great. The EGT just needs to be put in place, and it's all ready to go. I can't wait. I just hope when I start the car, everything goes well
 

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Koojo said:
I know SAFCII has been connected for about 2 weeks now and it works great. The EGT just needs to be put in place, and it's all ready to go. I can't wait. I just hope when I start the car, everything goes well
Im sure it will, you seem to be following some great steps in the whole process as well as others judgement (dad and friend) to help out with possible issues. You are also documenting EVERYTHING on here and if we see anything out of place or forgotten im sure well catch it and let you know. But you seem like you prepared very well for this so im sure little or NO issues will come about. Its a great process dude, when everything flows great, a couple of months will pass by and you can look back at this old thread and feel proud that you did this all yourself. I look back on mines and remember my own self doing all that shit 2-4hours a day in the rain outside for 3 weeks (I was a part-time lifeguard and when it rains you go home un-paid). I also had wrong parts etc.... so it took even longer especially someone who didnt even know how to install an intake at the time lol. That turbo setup made me learn the SR20 fairly well, and now if anything is wrong with the car I can decipher it (especially little boost leaks etc...).

Its great for YOU to know where the lines are hooked up etc... So if one day you have a boost leak you know where to check, or if your boost gauge comes loose you know where to look and so on. Im just happy that I am fortunate enough to have Andreas Miko 30 minutes away, this man can do all that in one day as hes done it like 50 times already so he knows what to expect. So im gonna save that pain in the ass and headache to him
;)

Once again, good luck with everything brotha, and next time I go to Vermont (Jan. 2005) by Mt. Snow, ill shoot you a holler and probably take a ride to meet you and peep at the G20:p
 

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Koojo said:
Armenian. Don't call me Russian.....lol jk. I am fluent in Russian though because I lived there for a while
My girlfriend is Armenian :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Kevin, this whole install has taught me one thing.....take your time, and do it right. If you half-ass something...you are just setthing yourself up for failure later. I have a lot of pics of what has been done today....so I will post later one after a much needed shower, and some much needed food. And DEF, if you are ever up near vermont, let me know, because we are def chillin.

Hmm all this work on the car....I'm going to be afraid to turn the key. I'm scared that hoses are gonna fly and the engine will blow up hahaha. I prob shouldn't be laughing. I've done everything right, I just hope it all works right
 
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