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i noticed you used a brass T fitting for the oil pressure sending unit. I hope you didn't T it straight to the block cuz those brass fittings break under stress. i had one break in my block and that was a real pain. if you can use a short stainless steel braided line then T it from there. this allows the brass T not to be affected by the engine vibrations. Or i think nissport has a strong billet piece they make for that or you can get a hard anodized T fitting. Anything that is stronger than that brass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Hmm, I did Tee it staight into the block. Should I just shorten the length of the oil line? I don't want to change the fitting right now, but probably will later on
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
Day Five

Started with soldering the new injector clips into the stock harness, and extending the wires on the front O2 sensor. The harness fit right in, and then came the intake manifold. The manifold was much easier to put on then take off, because I knew where the bolts/nuts were and how to get to them. Word of advice...be patient, and try different types of tools. Once the manifold was back on, the throttle body was connected, and the coolant lines to it were hooked up.

I then fitted the intercooler many times, and made a custom support which will allow it to hang from the top. After that, I went to home depot and rented a big ass electric saw, which was used to cut the IC pipes (a lifesaver!!! compared to a hack saw). We made pipes for the hot side (turbo to intercooler), and also the pipes from the turbo to the MAF and air filter. That was the day.

Word of advice: when connecting couplers, make sure you use a wrench on the bolts to tighten the clamp, and not just a screwdriver.

Tomorrow:
Make piping for cold side
Mark places for the BOV, the PCV valves, EGR on downpipe, and the rear O2 sensor on the downpipe, and take them to a shop to have bungs welded.
Extend rear O2 sensor wires
Change the plugs
Put oil and a little coolant in the engine.
Run pipe (hand bent) from EGR to downpipe

Pictures of Day Five
Soldering MSD clips into fuel injector harness
Fuel injector harness with new MSD clips
Front O2 sensor wires extended
MSD injectors installed
Bolt + washers needed to install the fuel rail (new bolts are needed because the MSD injectors are a little longer)
MSD injectors once more
Putting back the EGR selenoid
Front 02 sensor installed in exhaust elbow
Front of car with Intercooler
Intercooler shot once more
Intercooler w/o the bumper
Hot side piping
Hooking up the intercooler with the custom bracket
Intercooler hook up once more
Hot side piping
The big saw
Hot side piping
Location of MAF
Hot side piping
Hot side piping done
Pipe from turbo
Hooking up the MAF
Hooking up the MAF piping
Connecting the coupler
MAF piping complete
Front shot
Downpipe
Downpipe and Hot side piping
Engine shot
Engine shot 2
 

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myprojectp10 said:


Hold on! Make sure you remove the two nuts that are behind the flywheel cover plate. A friend found out the hard way :(

yep i did that once and cracked my oil pan... but luckly i had a spare one lying arround...
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
boostedgunit said:



yep i did that once and cracked my oil pan... but luckly i had a spare one lying arround...

Lol, a spare oil pan is a wierd thing to have laying around....:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Should I hook up the boost controller or not? I'm thinking I just want to do everything and get it over with, but a part of me is saying leave the car to see how it runs at stock boost first. My only problem is I have to get the car to the dyno immediatly after I'm done everything to tune it, so I would rather have the boost controller on the car to be able to bump the boost to 10. But I'm not sure.
 

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If you are going to dyno the car, then YES hook it up! Just dont go overboard with the boost.

Im sure that baby will fire right up!=)
 

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ERIKbronx said:
[email protected], do u have any more of those custom coolant attachments available, asap. I need them asap.:)
As a matter of fact, Ive got one set of turbo ones on hand. These are the ones tapped with the 1/4 NPT for water lines...$75 shipped for those ones, hit me up on PM if you want some.
 

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Koojo, hook up the boost controller later. Make sure everything is routed correctly.

Now please take the following as constructive criticism:

-Never use a screwdriver to pry apart the upper intake manifold. You are gouging soft aluminum that may not seal correctly later.

-PLEASE go back and use some plumbers tape on those threads. The orange silicone looks pretty ghetto.

-I see you are not planning on running an oil pressure gauge. That is a VERY BAD idea. Get rid of that stock sending unit (there is absolutely no reason for you to have it), and plug an autometer 1/8" NPT fitting there for your car. You will soon learn that your oil pressure will drop after high boost runs without an oil cooler.

I had a turbo SR20 for over two years, that made over 380whp with the same kit you are using. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
 

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MrFancypants said:
Hey man... are you going to cut a hole in your air filter so the cold side pipe can make it to the throttle body? Im a little confused :-\


- Greg -
I was wondering the same thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
MrFancypants said:
Hey man... are you going to cut a hole in your air filter so the cold side pipe can make it to the throttle body? Im a little confused :-\


- Greg -
Domiken said:


I was wondering the same thing
All in the mean time my friends.....I am very creative :) Pics will come tonight. I already have all the IC piping connected, now I need to take some of it to the shop to have bungs welded.

Cnynracer1 said:
Koojo, hook up the boost controller later. Make sure everything is routed correctly.

Now please take the following as constructive criticism:

-Never use a screwdriver to pry apart the upper intake manifold. You are gouging soft aluminum that may not seal correctly later.

-PLEASE go back and use some plumbers tape on those threads. The orange silicone looks pretty ghetto.

-I see you are not planning on running an oil pressure gauge. That is a VERY BAD idea. Get rid of that stock sending unit (there is absolutely no reason for you to have it), and plug an autometer 1/8" NPT fitting there for your car. You will soon learn that your oil pressure will drop after high boost runs without an oil cooler.

I had a turbo SR20 for over two years, that made over 380whp with the same kit you are using. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

I used a lot of teflon tape on the threads. The silicone is there just to protect it further and give it a better seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Day Six

The day started with cutting the bumper a little bit to fit the hot side piping. After the completion of that, I got to work on the cold side of the intercooler piping. After a lot of cutting, and trial and error, I got it to fit rather nicely. I marker the places on the pipes for the PCV bungs, BOV, BOV recirc bung, the O2 sensor bung and the EGR bung on the downpipe. I took it to Mineke, and had a guy weld the bungs on. When I took everything home, I hooked up the downpipe...and the o2 sensor bung was facing a wrong direction, so I couldn't get the sensor in there. But no problem, I'll have the bung moved to a new location tomorrow.

I also bought some copper, hand bendable tubing from home depot, and ran it from the EGR tube, all the way down to the downpipe. Hooked up my BOV, and the recir hose. I also installed the dual stage boost controller. It was probably around 5 pm when I was done with that stuff. I did a bunch of more fitting and tightening the couplers and all the clamps. Put the oil filter back on, and filled the engine with some oil. Also, added some antifreeze, since we lost quite a bit during the installation.

Well boys and girls, after 6 long days of install, it was time to fire it up. We pulled the fuel pump fuse. Took out the spark plug wires and the spark plugs. We took the OIL IN line out of the turbo, to see if oil was flowing. We turned the key, and the started began to turn, but no oil. We later figured out that we have to put the spark plugs in, and also the fuel pump fuse, and just leave the spark plug wires unhooked. Turned the key......and oil began to flow through the hose. I was so happy!! We connected the line back to the turbo...put the plug wires back in, and turned the key to start the engine. It started up with no hessitation. It did sound like a V8 though because remember, I still have that hole in my downpipe where the rear o2 sensor is suppose to go. The vac reading on the boost gauge was at 22. We gave it some gas in neutral and in drive (while the car was on jacks), but the boost gauge only went up to 0, and not into boost. I was pissed, so I had to call Kevin (Domiken). He told me that I should unhook my boost controller, put the wheels on and go for a drive. That's exactly what I did.

I went over all the clamps and couplers, and tightened everything up. I unhooked the dual stage boost controller, and put the wheels on. I mooved slowly down my drive way, but it seemed like the engine was pushing on the throttle by itself. I knew the reason right there....my throttle cable was a little twisted. I didn't care though, I went for a 1 min drive down my complex....I turned the corner....pushed on the throttle, and HOLY SHIT!!!!! The fucker MOVED!!!!!! I was like HOLD ON!!! to myself. And that was only about up to 3000 RPM's. AND my boost gauge was at around 7psi, which is stock boost for a T25 wastegate. SOO I will stay at stock boost tomorrow at the dyno (i have an appointment tomorrow), and then hook up the boost controller after everything is all tuned. I'm not sure if it was the boost controllers fault that my boost gauge would only read 0psi when the car was on jacks, and gear was on drive, and the engine was revving around 3000rpms. Does the car actually have to be on the road and moving in order for it to read boost? I didn't go out for a drive with the boost controller plugged in. Someone help me out here. Also, I may need to put the ground for the boost controller in a diff place.

Anyway, I came back, looked at my muffler tips, and they were almost black from running so damn rich. I talked to Kevin for a while and called it a night. Tomorrow, I will get the rear o2 sensor relocated, extend the wires, and hook it back up. I will do little touchups, and then I have a Dyno appt at 3pm tomorrow. I CAN'T WAIT!!! Even now, I dunno if it's all worth going turbo....maybe once the car is tuned, I will change my mind. :)


Pics of Day Six:

Cold Side piping through hole in body
Cold side piping below
Cold side piping
Cold side piping from intake
Cold side piping
Cold side piping
Cold side Piping
Front shot with bumper on
Front shot w/o bumper
My custom IC supports (to relieve pressure from side pipes, and also to prevent bouncing and stuff)
Custom top mount bracket for the IC
Engine shot
Boost gauge line
Engine shot, everything is on
MAF shot
Fitting the BOV
Me under the car
Me still under the car
I'm talking with Oleg
Connecting the BOV
Mike unattaching the OIL IN line from turbo to test for oil
Me bending the EGR pipe
EGR Pipe in
Mike's BMW
Mike's BMW
My Dad's oldsmobile with my rims....hahaha
Hooking up the boost controller
Mike's BMW again
MMMMM....I love antifreeze!!!
Mike's trying to piss oil
Picture shy
Spreadin eagle
Right before the starting the car....crossing fingers
The G finally out of garage
The G in the driveway w/o bumper (that's how I drove around for a few min)
The G in the driveway again
The G back in the garage....sleeping until tomorrow

Video Clips:
Clip 1
Clip 2
Clip 3
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Hmm...so maybe the darn boost controller does work! I guess I'll still go with stock boost for dyno tuning tomorrow, and then install the boost controller later on when everything is up and running at stock boost. I can't believe how fast the car moved with I gave it just a little bit of throttle!!!!!! I CAN"T WAIT FOR THIS SHIT!!!
 

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Bro one VERY important question! DID YOU BEAD YOUR PIPES???

Your IC piping looks about right just like mines on the cold side as mines was on the hot side, and I HIGHLY suggest you get this:



welded if you did not bead the pipes, it will be popping off all the time, doesnt matter how tight it is under full boost. And trust me its a pain in the ass to get out of the car everytime you hit boost due to a leak. If you dont know what it is, its this:



Its a little LIP on the end of each IC pipe that makes it a lot harder for the coupler to fall off. That pic isnt too great, lets look at an ordinary turbo:



Look at the lip on the compressor outlet, that is what you shouls have on the end of each pipe especially if youll be pushing more psi later on, just a suggestion as that was the MAIN part that sucked ass with my turbo setup.
 
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