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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Turbo write up PART II -- with PICS - 56k beware

So, I'm upgrading turbo's since I want some more power (Write up for the current setup can be found here: http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23285).

This is my current setup:

Avenir W10 T25 Turbo
Avenir Manifold
Spearco 27x5x2.5" (2" endtanks) IC
2" IC piping all the way around
Greddy Type-S BOV
TurboXS dual stage boost controller
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Delphi 38 lb/hr injectors (about 400cc)
Nismo FPR
Apexi SAFC II
JGY 2.5" downpipe
VRS 2.5" mandrel-bent exhaust
Magnaflow 3" muffler
UO Pulleys (2 piece)
Wideband
2 Slim Fans


I want to change to this (changes in bold):

Garrett GT28R (GT2560R) - Dual Ball Bearing
JGY Manifold

Spearco 27x5x2.5" (2" endtanks) IC 2" IC piping all the way around
SS waterlines with new fittings
SS oil lines with new fittings
Greddy Type-S BOV
TurboXS dual stage boost controller
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Siemens 55lb (580cc) injectors
Nismo FPR
Greddy Emanage Ultimate
JGY 2.5" downpipe
VRS 2.5" mandrel-bent exhaust
Magnaflow 3" muffler
UO Pulleys (2 piece)
Wideband
2 Slim Fans

I already have the emanage ultimate and injectors, which I bought last year, I'm not including those in the price figure yet. I will be selling the current setup, so that should put some money in my pocket to spend on the new parts.


Result:
Should allow me to be near 300whp safely. Turbo should also spool pretty fast due to being ball bearing, and should give me a lot more power up top, unlike the T25 which peaks near 4-5000rpms.


Stay tuned for more info. I will be updating this as I get more parts, and especially when I start the install.

EDIT: I decided to keep the 2" piping, rather than going to 2.5". Reason is that someone over at the sr20forum dyno'd his car with 2" IC pipes and 2.5" IC pipes, and near 350whp or so, he made just 4more whp by going to 2.5", but his spool was faster with 2" pipes. So to save a few hundred dollars and a lot of time by not having to make new IC pipes, I'm staying with my current IC and piping.
 

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I had that turbo on my P11, it has better spool that the W10 T25 it has more power at same boost levels and the BB kicks ass.

Get the JGY ajustable actuator (WG) and set it to 12psi, some cams and rock those front tires.

Check my writing about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had that turbo on my P11, it has better spool that the W10 T25 it has more power at same boost levels and the BB kicks ass.

Get the JGY ajustable actuator (WG) and set it to 12psi, some cams and rock those front tires.

Check my writing about it.

Did you ever have the car dyno'd? How much boost were you running daily, and with that boost, how much whp do you think you were making?

P.S. none of the pics work anymore on in your write-up
 

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I was running on a 8.5:1 11psi all day long with S4 and 3" all the way. I never took it to the dyno so I don't know how much power I was making with that set up.

Litting the front tires passing someone in those Vermont roads will be a everyday task, so hang on tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
^^ LOL it's a daily occurance with even the T25 turbo, I can only image what it'll be like with an extra 100whp.
 

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WOW that's a heck of a price on the turbo! Your not going to share that info as to where you got it? I should slap a new one on considering my gt28r has 123k miles on it!!!!

I guess your not going to try and switch over to a map system? I heard that the ultimate can eliminate the maf and use a map or something else! I would love to rid my self of the stupid maf! Always seems to be a problem on the sr.

Here is my dyno with this turbo. The lower number is baseline NA! My mods are in my sig, but I didn't have the walbro at the time and it was only at 6.5psi. Now don't let the chart scare you because when this was done my wastegate bracket was bent and I was getting boost really late! Man when I fixed the bracket a blip of the throttle pins my boost gauge at 7! I was amazed. I know the numbers are low but you gotta remember I'm on stock pump, injectors, maf, exhaust and was having that boost problem! All in all 196 @6.5psi is not too shabby.

http://www.g20.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12990
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I actually just won an ebay auction for that brand spanking new GT28r. Other places have it for $200 more, so I had to jump on this. I won (after a good old snipe).

I could switch to a map, but I'm not sure if this will cause more problems with installation and crap. Remember, your maf and my maf are different. The RR maf is bigger. I'm not sure, unless I get heavily persuaded that the map sensor is much much better, I'll just stick to what i have. I'm not trying to make this thing into a perfect machine, just as long as I can boost safely to near 300whp.
 

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will the new intercooler fill up the mouth more? I like it when you can just see the end caps, but none of the piping.
visual is everything to me :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It depends. The problem I had with the current IC is that the end tanks come right up to the AC lines on the passanger side. What I might end up doing is get a slightly longer IC, and push it out further forward than the current one. That way it might clear the AC lines, and give it a different look at the same time. I'll see though, I need to take off the front bumper and see what I can do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I received the turbo this weekend, and decided to clock the bad boy. Originally, the compressor is pointed in the right director...toward the block. I want to the compressor to be pointed down, how my current turbo is. Here are some pics of the turbo:









If you know how a turbo sits on an sr20 motor, you know that currently, the compressor outlet will be pointed straight toward the block. So I'm going to rotate it.

First, grab a 1/2" wrench and loosen up the six bolts which I have colored red in the picture below (there is one hiding behind the exhaust housing).





The compressor is held tightly in place by being squeezed by the small brackets in between the bolts.



So you must loosen them (but do not take them off). Just enough where the bracket wiggles back and forth:



Once the six compressor housing bolts have been loosened, go to the front of the comp. housing and loosen, and remove, the two wastegate bracket bolts (I colored them green):


The wastgate is now free:



Now what you want to do, with your hand, rotate the compressor housing down. It will rotate very easily. Get it roughly where you want it:


As you can see from the above picture...there are no holes for wastegate bracket in the new location on the comp. housing. What people have done before is either fab one up customely, or buy a premade one. After that's done, just tighten up the bolts (in a cross-cross order) and you're good to go :).

 

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good price on that turbo, nice snipe.

if you pick up a GTi-R wastegate acuator and bracket you can bolt it right up to that guy no problem, as it bolts behind the housing instead of in front like the stock one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
^^ That might be good idea, thanks for pointing it out. I know people that bought a specially made bracket which basically does the same thing. I'll see what I can find.
 

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Very nice! Keep up the good work! I had no idea about the gtir wastegate. I definately woulda went that route if I had know!

Koojo as you know it's really tight between the turbo and the radiator fans. I wouldn't torque all those screws down until you do a test fit. A few degrees of rotation can make a big difference! Also a few people have had a 90 degree bend off the turbo This would make installing the IC pipes much easier and cleaner.

If your using -4 oil feed lines you need an oil restrictor. -3 is questionable if you do or don't. I actually had no restrictor and the -4 lines. Then the return line kinked and I got oil in my IC pipes! I smoked out the whole neighborhood! Please post pics of your return when you do it! I had to loop mine in order for it too work! I know it's gravity fed but the loop works. I do not suggest this! I want to redo mine that's why I want a pic!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Rob, you made your own wastegate bracket right? Do you have a pic?

ATP turbo has 2 or 3 wastegate brackets, I'm not sure which one I need yet.

Oh BTW, I have slim fans, so clearance issues with the fans is not a problem.
 

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I myself didn't make the bracket. I will try and get pics. It's just a bent piece of aluminum! It's not pretty and didn't even work at first. It was keepin my wastegate open and which wouldn't allow me to boost. I had to bend it into place!

Here is the only pic I have right now. You can sorta see the bracket! I know this doesn't really help!

 

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good price on that turbo, nice snipe.

if you pick up a GTi-R wastegate actuator and bracket you can bolt it right up to that guy no problem, as it bolts behind the housing instead of in front like the stock one.
when I clocked my GTi-R turbo down the wastegate no longer fit. the SOB didnt have enough clearance between the turbo and mani, and it didnt want to fit over the fattened part of the compressor. I had to use the GTiR wastegate bracket and avenir wastegate actuator. it took some dinking around with behind and a little grinding to make it all fit..
 

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I was told it was a bit of a PITA. The custom bracket and slight bending of the actuator rod was needed. I swear I read that the modified bracket from ATP works though? I will do some research today!

Hopefully when I get pics this will all make a little more sense. I will try at lunch today. I only have a camera phone with me but I should get some useful pics.
 

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when I clocked my GTi-R turbo down the wastegate no longer fit. the SOB didnt have enough clearance between the turbo and mani, and it didnt want to fit over the fattened part of the compressor. I had to use the GTiR wastegate bracket and avenir wastegate actuator. it took some dinking around with behind and a little grinding to make it all fit..
Yeah good info, when I did a test fit it was pretty tight, but for me it looked like it was going to fit with the GT2560R and GTi-R actuator/bracket/manifold
 

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Discussion Starter #20
^^ Does the GTiR bracket/actuator sit in the same spot as the stock actuator on the GT2560R? I'm afraid that since the actuator is in the space between the compressor and the block, that it will hit the block.

Also, was the GTiR actuator/bracket a direct fit onto the gt2560R?
 
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