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USDM RR valve springs

3812 Views 19 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  mirrortints
I know JWT used to make them, and sell for a pretty penny, but what are the current options for upgrading to raise the rev limit safely?

I know I saw that sr20ve valve springs can be used, but what part # (and do H22 springs work)? Do the retainers need to be replaced too, and is that it?

Thanks!

Going to use a RR head with Tomei Poncams.
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You can use VE springs. You need the VE retainers as well and add an inner spring seat. H22 spring are almost a direct fit. Even a VE stock spring setup is better. Most RR motors don't make power much past 7000 anyways so stock VE springs are probably ok. But any VE drop in spring will work
Thanks! Can I use VET springs and VE retainers with RR seats, since there are no inner springs?
VET/20v springs would drop right in with no other mods needed. Use your stock seats and retainers.
Great! What would be a safe rev limit for the VET springs?
depends what cams you are running. with 20v springs and S3R cams 7500-8000 probably.. but wont really make power much past 7000rpms anyways
RR Tomei Poncams and nice sized turbo. Hoping to rev to 8k.
yeah, should be ok... if anything, add a stock VE inner spring to the setup. but if you are using a GT28 size turbo then most likely you wont make much power past 7000 anyways. a GT28R setup at 15-16psi, cams, etc usually makes max TQ at 4000rpm and max HP at 6000-6500ish and falls on its face above 7000...and is useless above that really.
Cool, I'm past the t-28's, and gt30's. :)
If you are in the GT30/35R range then yes you will make power to 8k. If you are going to run a lot of boost then I suggest getting some stiffer aftermarket springs
You can use VE springs. You need the VE retainers as well and add an inner spring seat. H22 spring are almost a direct fit. Even a VE stock spring setup is better. Most RR motors don't make power much past 7000 anyways so stock VE springs are probably ok. But any VE drop in spring will work
Yup fairly straight forward, finding the inner washers is the hardest part. Reving to even 7.5k on a RR sucks, especially NA, after 7k you start getting a nasty oil smell. Turbo at least helps you maintain some torque up there not to smell but yeah power sucks. I am on RR cams though

Here are some steps:
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread...gs-in-an-RR-(Allows-for-8k-redline)&p=1854370
If you are going to run a lot of boost then I suggest getting some stiffer aftermarket springs
Just wondering, why?


Thanks for the link to the write-up Vadim.
Sorry to thread jack. But what has to be done to H22a springs to work on a RR?
They drop right in. Just need the inner spring seats and VE retainers for the dual springs.
Gone with VET valve springs. Trying to decide on 2 cams.

260duration each
11.20mm lift

298/289 duration
11.6i/11.2e lift

PTE6262 turbo, ported head, custom plenum/q45 tb. Which should I choose, and will the 11.6 lift hit the piston? Flat top 10:1 forged pistons.
How did you find VET valve springs? I tried to order them new and they are NLA (No Longer Available) or OOP (Out of Production), whatever you want to call it.
With that turbo at high boost and Reving to 8-9000 the larger cams will make more power. However the others smaller ones will drive better down low, have better mpg idle better and overal driving will be better when not in boost w
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