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I neutral dropped it until the p0732 code went away and it started shifting again. Ha true story, swear to god. The solenoid was stuck or dirty because everything tested fine and it was stuck in 3rd but not fail safe and the overdrive worked.
 

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This week I had issues starting my 1999 G20 and discovered that the positive post on the battery was slightly loose. After tightening it down and resetting my codes, the P1490 and P1491 codes went away (I guess the carbon canister system wasn't getting enough voltage since they are in the rear of the car?). After tightening the terminal, the car started perfectly and idles like a kitten.

I then removed my windshield cowl since I was tired of replacing the electrical tape (it had no weatherstripping at all and the tape prevented leaks in the passenger footwell). I heat-treated the cowl (it is black again!), applied some weatherstripping that I bought off eBay (item 222746533221), sealed off the rectangular plastic guides in the firewall, and painted my wiper arms. Reinstalled them last night after letting the paint set for a few days and they work like OEM.

Over the break I plan to do a brake overhaul (pads, caliper lubrication, new fluid, new front-left brake hose) since my rear right caliper is sticking and I have a set of new rear pads on hand.
 

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I replaced all 4 shocks then I replaced the brake calipers, pads, hardware and brake discs (slotted) on all 4 wheels. Unbelieveable how much better it stops now. Next is a header and new tires.
 

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This week I had issues starting my 1999 G20 and discovered that the positive post on the battery was slightly loose. After tightening it down and resetting my codes, the P1490 and P1491 codes went away (I guess the carbon canister system wasn't getting enough voltage since they are in the rear of the car?). After tightening the terminal, the car started perfectly and idles like a kitten.

I then removed my windshield cowl since I was tired of replacing the electrical tape (it had no weatherstripping at all and the tape prevented leaks in the passenger footwell). I heat-treated the cowl (it is black again!), applied some weatherstripping that I bought off eBay (item 222746533221), sealed off the rectangular plastic guides in the firewall, and painted my wiper arms. Reinstalled them last night after letting the paint set for a few days and they work like OEM.

Over the break I plan to do a brake overhaul (pads, caliper lubrication, new fluid, new front-left brake hose) since my rear right caliper is sticking and I have a set of new rear pads on hand.
I replaced all 4 shocks then I replaced the brake calipers, pads, hardware and brake discs (slotted) on all 4 wheels. Unbelieveable how much better it stops now. Next is a header and new tires.
Nice work gentlemen!

As for me, I installed a new-to-me rear motor mount bracket (from a P11) so that I could finally install new Prothane engine mounts front and rear.

Apparently I installed the rear motor mount bracket from a B14 when I swapped the motor from the lowport I had put in back to the RR that came with the car. 50/50 chance...and I picked the wrong bracket. Anyways, all good now!

Also, installed new rear tires since they were pretty worn and actually cupped on the driver's rear, causing a hum at cruising speeds. New tires and now no issues!

Branden
Aka hawaiiaNX
 

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When I did the brake job I forgot to mention I installed new flexible brake lines on all 4 wheels as well. The only thing that is not new is the master cylinder and that is working well. I think by flushing the brake system once a year kept the system working well.
 

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My G20 passed Texas state inspection today!! After battling 7 codes (P0138, P0139, P0400, P0440, P1448, P1490, P1491 :thumbsdow) last year in preparation for this month, I must say that I am more than relieved.

The journey to clear the codes was more or less the following:

I found a broken tube on my Vacuum Cut Valve (replaced the unit with one from a Maxima, same part number). None of the codes went away, so I kept looking. I found and replaced a broken hose on the bottom of the EGRC-BPT valve and cleaned the EGR pipe and valve while I had access. I cleaned the throttle body and replaced the OEM intake hose, which was badly cracked in the flex joint area. I cleaned the electrical connectors for the vacuum cut valve bypass valve, which was caked with dirt. I replaced the PCV valve, which was plugged up with oil, since I was already replacing the valve cover and valve cover gasket. No more emissions codes (P0400...P1491) after these fixes.

After several months, P0138 and P0139 appeared. The rear oxygen sensor was reporting data so I did not want to replace it. After tightening my positive battery terminal, which had somehow gotten loose, these codes have not come back (~200 miles). The terminal most likely became loose as a result of a ~400 mile road trip that I took.

Time for mods!
 

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Played find the squeak on skweekers. Only took off about 450 lbs and 3 months of salty shitty roads to start its B.S. And it was not any of the poly mounts. Imagine that.
 

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I installed the OEM Y33 Q45 Bose amp. The plug is the same, and after switching the back plate/cover from the G20 amp it mounts identically. The sound was horrible. I sat in my car 3 times playing with all of the OEM stereo settings. The crackling in my OEM speakers would not go away (too powerful?). I did not perceive any noticeable benefits so I put the G20 stock amp back in. Sounds clear and powerful enough for me!

Other random stuff: replaced reverse bulbs with LED's so people will SEE when I am backing in to my space and wait; cleaned out the cabin air filter box and replaced the filters (some leaves but not too bad), did not bother cleaning the car since pollen is rampant at the moment, tried to replace B1S2 O2 sensor but it is one with the pipe (I will wait until I replace the exhaust system...OEM muffler is rusting out).
 

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Well it was last weekend, but here goes.. I FINALLY got around to installing my drivers side Recaro seat. I need to workout mounting the passenger side seat.


 

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Got some work in on my son's first car. Josh is the proud owner of a 1993 P10 in BW9, I believe officially called dark blue pearl.

The shifter arm bushings on the universal joint at the tranny were missing, so replaced those. Also swapped in a tool box find Energy poly bushing on the shifter stabilizer bar while up there. And topped it off by installing the TWM shifter out of Panda. A nice start and now first gear is easy for him to find :)
 

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No. Had the car checked out about last year they said I needed a new header. Wasn't loud at all and now over time the vehicle has become louder.
Is it an aftermarket header? Sometimes one of 2 things happens - the bolts loosen at the primary/secondary joint and over time it can warp the contact surfaces where they won't sit flush against each other, thus air escapes causing all the noise. Or it could be the flex portion of the secondary.
 

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Is it an aftermarket header? Sometimes one of 2 things happens - the bolts loosen at the primary/secondary joint and over time it can warp the contact surfaces where they won't sit flush against each other, thus air escapes causing all the noise. Or it could be the flex portion of the secondary.
Not aftermarket. Also already had to replace the flex, did the whole front pipe. Just found out that the header on this has a cat so I probably won't end up replacing it now due to the cost of it. No idea what I'm going to do tbh.
 

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Not aftermarket. Also already had to replace the flex, did the whole front pipe. Just found out that the header on this has a cat so I probably won't end up replacing it now due to the cost of it. No idea what I'm going to do tbh.
There's a cat down wind from the header? ----- that's a new one to me. FWIW, you can get a BRAND NEW eBay header (primary and secondary pipes) for about $100 shipped, or less. Easy install and add 5-8 WHP
 

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There's a cat down wind from the header? ----- that's a new one to me. FWIW, you can get a BRAND NEW eBay header (primary and secondary pipes) for about $100 shipped, or less. Easy install and add 5-8 WHP
Tbh I could be completely wrong, from my understanding isn't the header and first catalytic converter all one unit on the 00-02 G20s? I thought it was a 2 cat system.
 
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