Infiniti G20 Nissan Primera Forum banner

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New Driver side and passenger side axles, KYB front and rear struts with Tein lowering springs. Also installed a new connecting pipe gasket. Riding much better now.
 

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New Driver side and passenger side axles, KYB front and rear struts with Tein lowering springs. Also installed a new connecting pipe gasket. Riding much better now.
How was it replacing the front struts? Did it go smooth? Also could you link the front struts you got.
 

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Tbh I could be completely wrong, from my understanding isn't the header and first catalytic converter all one unit on the 00-02 G20s? I thought it was a 2 cat system.
You are right, the 1st cat is built into the exhaust manifold. The 2nd is located under the floor near the shifter area. If you get a header, You might get a CEL though and might not be able to hook up the 2nd O2 sensor. Unless there is a provision on the header for it.
 

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Dummy valve got stuck in the bore on the line pressure solenoid. Cleaned it and the rest of the bores and solenoids on the valve body and put the shift kit to work with a new filter. Almost 1 inch strips of friction material stuck up in the filter. Only engaged gears a little slow with a little slip. Tiny hole in the filter letting dirt up in it causing the grind that is now gone. Low 1 still pulls good but weird because i can almost fit my pinky between the low reverse clutches .198.000 miles time to rebuild. If anyone has an automatic i highly suggest the shift kit. Alot easier than it sounds. Just keep clean.
 

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You are right, the 1st cat is built into the exhaust manifold. The 2nd is located under the floor near the shifter area. If you get a header, You might get a CEL though and might not be able to hook up the 2nd O2 sensor. Unless there is a provision on the header for it.

Thats crazy. Had no idea. Learn something everyday! This is my first G20 so there is stuff I don't know yet for sure.

So today I replaced the interior cabin filters in the P11. The old ones were GROSS. Although I don't think they are the original ones from 18+ years ago as it said they were made in China on them. All in all, replacing them was easy. You just remove the 6-8 Phillips head screws holding in the glove box, unhook the interior light, and the glove box pulls straight out and you can put it on the drivers seat for the time being. Then the two filters are right there stacked on top of each other. When I pulled them out, not only were they disgusting, there was a whole bunch of old leaves and other dirt that fell out onto the carpet below. For anyone that plans doing this- I recommend having a vacuum handy and to use the smallest attachment you can find as the filters location is very narrow and it's hard to get anything in there to scrape the stuff out. Pics:



The brand new filters. I got them both as a set for $17 shipped w/ Amazon Prime. Infiniti wants over $60 for the two IIRC.



The glove box removed, and you can see the glove box light dangling at the bottom. It just sort of unclips from the hole.



The location of the filters. Note that this pictures was taken sideways, they are actually stacked vertically. There is a black clip at the bottom of the lower one which your remove with a flat head screwdriver. My new filters actually came with a new clip so I used that one.



Sliding in the new filters. It's a bit of a pain to get them both in there because there is a clearance issue at the top with one of the airbag sensors. I didn't want to mess with that so I had to work with them to get them to both fit.



The new vs old filter. YIKES!! Can't believe I've been breathing through that. Although its only been a few days, I noticed the air coming in has no smell to it, that is how it's supposed to be. I bet it will REALLY make a difference in the summer on those hot humid days when the car used to smell like wet dog.



And lastly, these were the so-called "instructions" that came with the new filters. My friends and I got such kick out of it. Tools needed: YES - hahaha. Oh man :scream::cheeky:
 

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'99 G20

I finally changed the distributor O-ring gasket last Friday. Previous owner did not believe in oil changes. The original O-ring was hard enough to be a wedding ring. After cleaning off that area of the engine as best as I could, it was time to put the distributor back on. :nervous: I lined it up as best as I could tell (I marked the engine) on the inside and the outside and tightened the bolts. It started right up and idled smoother than a criminal. It has not shown any signs of leaking so far.

Aside from this job, I also had to replace the upper power steering hose crush washers. It was a pain trying to find the part number for the washers, so here it is for anyone else that needs to replace them: 49726-Y0100. The banjo bolt is 24mm and I tightened it down to 47 ft-lbs (shout out to Erics DIY Garage! How to remove power steering pump on a Infiniti G20)

When we bought the car 2 years ago, the power steering was "shot" so the shop we took it to replaced the hose. They did not replace the one-time-use crush washers, so it has had a slow leak ever since. I have not checked the lower end of the hose to see if it is leaking form that end. The upper leak appears to be 95% gone now.
 

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Deleted the P/S and then put it right back on and decided to wash it more. F that. Not super hard to turn but acelleration out of corners kinda sucks on a daily driver. I need that . part #248k3. It is 24.75 inch inner i think. 3 rib. If you try a 4 rib it will rub on the timing cover right where the oil pump outlet goes to the block. Oh and loop the fluid lines. And its a birch to get on and back off to change another and no tensioner. But crank is pulling 50% of that w/p pulley so it would be fine unless it got old and oily.
 

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In the last month or so I have replaced my Tein SS coilovers with some BC Racing BR Type coilovers with Swift spring upgrades (10k front, 8k rear), pulled my rear hubs to install some extended lug studs and Gorilla open lug nuts, pulled my B15 trans (due to a snapped clutch fork arm) and replaced it with my old P11 trans with new TOB and clips and some thinner 80W90 trans fluid, replaced my slave cylinder, and got everything all aligned.

Next up will be getting the AC sorted out (all my freon leaked out, I believe from the o-ring where the low pressure like meets the condenser), getting my extended studs and Gorilla lug nuts installed up front, and getting my passenger headlight working again. I think the ballast on the JDM Dual may have given up the ghost.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
 

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In the last month or so I have replaced my Tein SS coilovers with some BC Racing BR Type coilovers with Swift spring upgrades (10k front, 8k rear), pulled my rear hubs to install some extended lug studs and Gorilla open lug nuts, pulled my B15 trans (due to a snapped clutch fork arm) and replaced it with my old P11 trans with new TOB and clips and some thinner 80W90 trans fluid, replaced my slave cylinder, and got everything all aligned.

Next up will be getting the AC sorted out (all my freon leaked out, I believe from the o-ring where the low pressure like meets the condenser), getting my extended studs and Gorilla lug nuts installed up front, and getting my passenger headlight working again. I think the ballast on the JDM Dual may have given up the ghost.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
How do you like the BC Racing coilovers compared to the Tein SS ones?
 

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P10 Cusco upper control arms

Installed Cusco upper control arms and Moog lower control arms.

Going to junkyard 2 hours away to pull a subframe because the holes are stripped In the rear for Xmember. I have no idea why there is a GM bolt stuck back there. Didn’t realize until I was down there to change xmember bushings.

Also ordered some bushings for the rear arms. Supposed be same as superpro’s without the wait time.


 

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Salt. First time in 2 years there is a 01 p11 in the yard. O shit it's not an auto. Im there soon as the doors open, getting this linkage, pedal, master, shifter swap today, yes finally. So everything going good, kinda rusty on the back 2 bolts holding the shit to the body. Ok . Linkage a little rust on the weld up top but i can sand and clean paint. Well when i turn the bolt for the shift bar, noticed the whole rod moved up, wtf. Look up top and linkage folded in the middle and cracked. Wtf. Dam fucking salty ass roads. Had a Timothy Leary Edition trans too (LSD). 70v. But already know that case ain't gonna hold no power and waste of time. Guess i could make my own linkage, already have a 70v, or just stay auto. Think ill stay auto already drive it sometimes like it's a stick anyway.
 

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Man I'm in the same boat as you - need to start gathering parts for a manual swap. Only been a few P11's in my local yards this year, used to be too many of the to keep up with. Did some of the '01 P11's come with the 70V? I thought those were only the '02 Sport P11's but I'm a noob when it comes to manual stuffs.
 
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