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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched around the forum, I used the 'SEARCH' option, I put words like: Engine Noise, Engine Knocking, Engine Pinging... but I'm still not fully sure I'm getting the answer I'm looking for. I'm hearing this ...'knock'... in my engine when I rev it around 4500-5000 rpm or higher... it kinda' starts low and as I press the gas it gets a bit louder. :-\ Now, my friend tells me it could either be the timing belt or the oil. I do have a leak in the oil pan, but I've been on top of my oil until' I get the leak fixed. I run mostly on 89 octane, but at times I'll throw in 87 octane... when I'm type boke... :knockout: What exactly inside the engine could cause that noise? What are the exact parts? When the noise has to do with revving, is it the timing, the oil or the gas?? I hardly hear anything at idle, and my car doesn't have any colored smoke coming out of my exhaust... if anything, I'd call the regular water drops I get a "good combustion between the air/gas/spark plugs"
So why is it making that noise?... Oh, also, I took out my OE airbox and added an OBX air filter to the stock MAF and pipe... I can't blame the noise on that cuz' it was making it before I had added it... Does anyone know...?
 

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I hate to be the one to say this, but it sounds like you have a bearing knocking (usually people call it a spun bearing, but they rarely actually spin).

Pull the plug wire one at a time and if the knocking goes away, you've found the cylinder that has the bad bearing. If the noise doesn't go away, then it's not likely a bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
...ok... I gotta try this..

Ok, I'll try it .. basically what you're saying is... let the engine run, then pull the plugs one after the other and see if the noise will stop as I pull them... Now... won't the engine start shaking when I pull the plugs...? Is it safe? I don't hear the noise on idle, will I have to give it some gas while a plug is out to test it?
And also, if I do have a "spun bearing"... what can be done to fix it? .... Is an expensive type of problem or a moderate, top-engine part type of problem...?
Thanx for the quick reply Geo ;)
 

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Re: ...ok... I gotta try this..

Fraychild said:
Ok, I'll try it .. basically what you're saying is... let the engine run, then pull the plugs one after the other and see if the noise will stop as I pull them... Now... won't the engine start shaking when I pull the plugs...? Is it safe? I don't hear the noise on idle, will I have to give it some gas while a plug is out to test it?
And also, if I do have a "spun bearing"... what can be done to fix it? .... Is an expensive type of problem or a moderate, top-engine part type of problem...?
Thanx for the quick reply Geo ;)
Do it with the engine running. It will shake. Rev it if you have to (it won't like it). Don't try to rev it too high. If it only does it at rpms over 3k, don't do this.

I'm afraid if it is a bearing, your best bet is to install a JDM engine - that would probably be cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
....A NEW ENGINE...

I know everyone in here wants a DET engine dropped in their bay!! But a new engine already?? I'm not even done paying the car off!! :eek: Please tell me there is ... possibly... another... cheaper way... I do want a Turbo engine someday... but not now! and... approximately... how long do you think ... it could last (fingers crossed) ... :nervous:
 

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Re: ....A NEW ENGINE...

Fraychild said:
I know everyone in here wants a DET engine dropped in their bay!! But a new engine already?? I'm not even done paying the car off!! :eek: Please tell me there is ... possibly... another... cheaper way... I do want a Turbo engine someday... but not now! and... approximately... how long do you think ... it could last (fingers crossed) ... :nervous:

Sorry, but until you check things out, or get them checked out, I'm through speculating. I'd rather not go down a bunny trail here.

BTW, there are JDM SR20DEs as well as DETs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh noooo...

You're not through speculating boy!! :lol: (joke in time of distress)

The Test: I did the official 'Geo Test', I took out the wires one by one and gave it a lil' gas each try.

The Results: 3 wires were pulled out and the noise remained the same except for one wire where the noise was less... The wire where there was no noise was less the second plug from the distributor cap (Right to Left on a SR20DE).... the noise was less but it didn't go away completely, you could hear it really low.

The Questions are: What 'bearing' exaclty are you talking about? Where is it located in the engine? Can't it be replaced? What could've caused it to 'spin'?

The Solution: HELLLLPPPPP!!! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
.....

Hey... Geo... scratch my last questions. I did some research online about 'spun bearing' and you're right, a swap may be cheaper and more efficient. ... I'm gonna get my mechanic's two cents on the whole thing and see what he could do for me... Do you know any sites where I can get the SR20DE engines for a good price? Also, if I'm getting a DET, Will I need major mods or will it fit like the regular DE... I need to seriously start looking into swapping at this point... Tell me what you know about putting in another engine... :sleep:


thanx man...
 

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Re: Oh noooo...

Fraychild said:
You're not through speculating boy!! :lol: (joke in time of distress)

The Test: I did the official 'Geo Test', I took out the wires one by one and gave it a lil' gas each try.

The Results: 3 wires were pulled out and the noise remained the same except for one wire where the noise was less... The wire where there was no noise was less the second plug from the distributor cap (Right to Left on a SR20DE).... the noise was less but it didn't go away completely, you could hear it really low.

The Questions are: What 'bearing' exaclty are you talking about? Where is it located in the engine? Can't it be replaced? What could've caused it to 'spin'?

The Solution: HELLLLPPPPP!!! :eek:
I'm afraid it's a bad connecting rod bearing. Not being there I cannot tell for certain though, so don't panic just yet.

If it is a bearing, and you are lucky, the crankshaft won't be scored. If that is the case, the bearing can simply be replaced. If the crankshaft is scored however, it's pretty much game over. Some people will say you can sand it with emory paper and smooth it out, but that's pretty monkey and really doesn' t work on these engines because the tolerances are so tight.

In all likelihood you will be better off replacing the engine with a JDM import. Sorry about that.

If you don't have a mechanic you trust, I can probably hook you up with the brother of someone on the SE-R Mailing List. He's quite familiar with the SR20. Beyond that I don't know the guy, so I can say he's going to take care of you or rip you off.

Lastly, what causes the problem is metal to metal contact (there is usually a thin film of oil between the metal parts). That is usually caused by oil starvation from the oil being too low, hard cornering, oil too thin due to too long between oil changes, and sometimes just damned poor luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I see...

Well, it's probably oil starvation... cuz' I do have that nasty leak... but I've been keeping up with my oil level pretty well... :-\ I guess I'll just pour some more thicker oil in there for the time being and save for a new engine.... What's a good, thick oil that you know about... ? and I know this may sound dumb... but what is thicker (number-wise) 10-40 or 10-30? Or should I go full Synthetic from this point on?.... Tell me about swaps... mods etc...
And if you can hook me up with that someone's brother Geo, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanx.
 

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sounds funny

its funny your having this problem cuz just went through this. on my way back from summerslam on sunday (i live on l.i.) my g20 started sounding really shitty around 3k. its always been a little loud but now it was LOUD!!! i pulled over and pulled the 3rd wire from the left and noticed no difference in the motor. by the time i got home the motor sounded like a little man with a hammer was trying to beat his way out of my motor. rather then spend tons of money i contacted soen trade corp. in jersey. i went there today and came home with a jdm sr20de (not "t") for a little over $500.00 bucks. and he has at least 20-30 more motors. the number is (732) 937-8322 you can get them in queens for about $750.00 or on ebay but i thing this guys way more professional. plus you can go in the warehouse and poke around and pick out the motor you want.
 

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Are you sure that you are not experiencing octane related knock? Before you start thinking about replacing your engine you should put a tank of premium gas in and see if you still hear the knocking at the higher rpm. Also check your ignition timing. It does sound like you may have a bad rod bearing or a worn piston pin, but you should eliminate octane/timing related knock first.
 

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1. yes
2. I did
3. I did
4. its not

had you been there when i yanked off the valve cover you would understand why its not a motor worth repairing. plus the swap is almost done n e way. thanks though
 

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heres my thought on the origanol problem... i have that infamous rattle at 4600 rpms...... if trully screwed... and spun a bearing.. how is it ive lost no power in my engine.. i would think that i spun a connecting rod bearing that the piston in question would not work at all.. thus causing me to lose 1/4 of the engines power.. this would affect things even a moneky would know.. (ive ceased several engines foreign and domestic ;) ) my main concern is to the fact that problem occurs often but could it not just be detonation, timing chain, or something of the sorts.. im gonna go search the mailing list.. ill be back with my findings..
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
OK... I SEE THE LIGHT...

Ok... 93det.. you have to stick with me on this one, cuz' I'm not gonna let you go!! :knockout: Did you say a lil' over $500?? Man you are my HERO!! :lol: I just called them as a matter of fact and on top of the fact that the guy, Efron, was nice, he hit me up with $475 for the engine and $55 for the freight!!! Yo... I wanted to jump son! ... The warranty may be for 6 months, but for such a price, I think it's worth it! :p Now, I need to know: Where are you getting your swap done?? How much does it cost? Do you trust the guys? Efron told me the engine's mileage lies between 30-40k, what is it on yours?? ... man you don't even understand... You just gave a desperate, close-to-suicidal, near-depressed, lost and confused mind a big time hope!! Cuz' like I mentioned, I'm not even done paying the car off, so this whole "need new engine" business was a load on my shoulders! I didn't get to check my timing belt yet, but I know it's not Octane cuz' I mostly use premium. I'll check the timing... but I already have my mind on my new engine!! Thanx a whole bunch man!!!

Bernard
 

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Discussion Starter #16
seriously...

I didn't know what a 'spun bearing' was until Geo mentioned it, and I then researched... He suggested that I tested the noise, and I could only assume from my results that in fact a 'spun bearing' was my problem. Now as for performance, I do notice that the car, sometimes, gets a bit sluggish as it climbs in RPM... I would often relate it to the fact that my car is pretty heavy...(especially with the box I have in the trunk :knockout: ) but I do experience power loss, on 1st, 2nd gear... never really understood why.... Maybe it is time for a tune-up, maybe it is caused by the bearing... I thought about the whole: "One bearing not working, should equal to one piston not working", but I'm sure that would just ... *&%#@ up the whole engine big time.... :monkey: Even detonation is a pretty messed up problem.... I read that such problems require an engine swap... regardless... cuz' you're better off. About timing, I'm sure it's important... what would cause it to go off... I don't know... I really should have it checked out for my engine, maybe I won't even have to spend money for that new engine... however it turns out though... I just wanna be able to drive with the peace of mind that my engine is running fine.... :sleep:
 

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well what part of long islang r u from?? im in brentwood. i did the swap myself. i work at speedy. it took me a day and a half. (iwas working on it in between cars) the only modification i had to do was the front engine pipe. the flanges on both motors is the same but the jdm sr20 has a sick header-type manifold. all you have to do is cut out about a 3 inch section and it will be the correct size. trust me its easy. oh and the reason for my motor failing was my intake cam. it wasnt getting fed oil so it gound itself almost to a complete circle. (things come apart when that happens) the moral of the story...kids change your oil in your sr20's or they will die!!:square: yeah but if you need help with the swap you know where to find me
 

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Just wondering, when you guys called/stopped in soken, did u ask a price for the DET engines or not even bother?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Goodness Gracious!!

First off: That audio SR20DEe posted is exactly what my engine sounds like... it's the exact noise when you rev the engine above 3k!! .. man where did you find that?? Did you sneak up behind me when I was testing my engine or something... :knockout: ?? Also, I did (OF COURSE) inquire about the DET engine!! but they didn't carry it there... :-\ ... By the way 93det, I live in Elmont, but guess what? I work at ADP in Deer Park You may know about the Heartland Business District (Pine Aire Drive, Train Station, Golf course, about 3 mins. away from Brentwood!!), I don't know Brentwood too good, but I'm sometimes on 5th Ave, getting my Chinese Food on!! :p I'd like to stop by your shop today or a day that you're working... around 12:30-ish or 1:00pm and you could listen to the engine if you want and give me some better ideas... I really appreciate all your help and I'm glad I could run into you. If you can give me directions from the Sagtikos Pkwy, I'll be there...
Later man.

Bernard
 
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