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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay guys and gals.. ....my search skills are lacking this Sunday afternoon because I've just spent a few hours trying in vain to find the tread posted here that I know I remember seeing someone post on how light they got their g20.

I know there was this awesome itemized list someone took the time to determine and post up.. where did it go?

I remember Colin saying he was at 2500 pounds with full Interior and A/C on I believe his former 93.5

What I'm trying to determine is just how light a 1991 or 1992 g20 can get before caging (trying to determine if it is worth the effort of making G20 track rat #2 or not based on what can be done for weight when all said and done!)

Anyone? Bueller?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They prolly argued until they moved it to Sponcers section are something.
haha.. okay


weighed my friend Steve's 93 g20 this morning (automatic no airbag highport with full interior, spare tire, A/C, etc. but no sunroof) and it came up 2790... EEEEEEEK
 

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my 91 base base base p10 is 2617lbs complete running. i just drove a 96 base that was deff more weight and you could feel the difference so i know there is a lot more weight in the newer ones.

I did not weigh everything that came out of snickers (my 92) but i did weigh a lot of the other metal and stuff that was cut out of the car. some people would not agree with me and think that my 92 will weigh a lot more than i think it will, but i have removed A LOT of other stuff that you cant remove with just nuts and bolts, so in my mind, adding up whats left, my car should be in the 2000lb range even with a cage and air jacks. Might be 2100 but still, thats light for whats there
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
^ It doesn't seem feasible to get anywhere near 2100lbs without having to go crazy weight loss with lexan replacing all glass, gutting doors out to sheet metal welded in place, gutting hood and trunk to 1 layer, cutting out all sorts of metal like the rear deck, swiss cheesing the bumper supports, etc.

Our former 95 was 2790 w/cage and 180lb driver.... so unless we can be anywhere close to 2500 WITH cage AND 180lb driver, it isn't going to be worth the effort to go down the g20 path again...
 

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How much do you want it to weigh? I'm sure you can get it there depending on what you are willing to lose; which I know is tricky since you have to follow rules.

But I don't follow rules since I'm not racing competitively. My goal is 2204.622621848775807229738013450lbs. Nice round number, in metric lol.

I never weighed my car 100% stock. My old p10 was weighed and corner balanced when the daiyama coilovers were installed. It was a 93.5 base model, manual, cloth seats, no sunroof, + carbon hood which is a little lighter + touring front seats which is a lot heavier + wings west m3 spoiler, and other little negligible additions like jdm side markers and emblems and whatnot = 2751 lbs. The first time I weighed my current car (which was identical to the old car when they were new apart from dealer added foglamps) I had already ripped out most of the interior as I threw stuff away as fast as I could pull it out. I didn't have access to scales when I purchased the car, but soon as I did the engine swap I was able to drive it to work where we had scales. It was still a little over 2400, but I still had random things like driver airbag since I hadn't swapped steering wheels yet. In the first few months I got it down to 2335 by continuing to remove little things, and then 2310 after loosing the stock seat and going to a sparco evo xl. Window cranks vs motors are like a pound a piece, manual side mirrors really don't give you anything except less wires. Eventually there were a few more large items. Carbon trunk lost like 22lbs, but then I put my 11lb spoiler back on. Lost 20lbs on switching to JDM rear bumper. Only lost another 11lbs switching to jdm front bumper because I didn't have foglamps or brackets on the stock one, but the JDM did and I love stock foglamps on p10s so I kept them. Then I added LSD. and reinstalled some of the little finishing trim pieces to make my car look presentable. So the last time I weighed my car it was 2270, that was about 3.5 years ago. I has to be back over 2300 now as I have trailer hitch on the back now, as well as bigger brakes, and wheel/tires. But when I do the engine swap, I suspect the engine itself, mostly the intake and exhaust manifolds and catback and smaller batter will get me close to my 2204 goal. Also the heavy sound deadening on floorboards is still there, seems like a lot of work to chisel out and repaint so I haven't got to that either.

One really heavy part of the car I'm keeping is the doors. I haven't cut anything out of them, and even after I get a cage I still won't. I'm willing to carry around extra metal between me and the other idiots. Also the rear deck is still one piece, I didn't remove it, Charles did on his car but I think I'll just leave it in for rigidity especially since I don't have cage with a 100+ tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
..and that's just it... we don't want a Lexan windshield or rear window (could deal with lexan sides).. do not want to go crazy cutting out door sheet metal or other metal like the rear interior decklid where speakers sat, or gut the hood and trunk... There comes a point where it just takes too much effort to get there..

What we loved about the 95 was being able to drive in the street, and lock up for street parking (cruise still worked as did the power windows)... yes a little spoiled but ultimately the cruise control and power windows were not a significant amount of weight to shed for the class we ran in.

We ran in PTF and would want to build for PTE in G20 #2 (so we would want an easy goal of 2500 WITH 180lb driver and cage) <-- and no my 6'2" husband will not be losing any more weight... he is 180lbs with gear on (gear alone is about 12 pounds between the suit, gloves, shoes, socks and helmet).. then add 30 lbs for cool shirt system as well!

...by easy goal I'd expect the following:
- fully gutted but maintain main dash (goodbye glovebox)
- lexan back door windows permanently mounted with rest of door gutted but not cutting sheet metal
- stock front windows with ability to roll up and down
- front and rear carbon hood/trunk an option for weight savings
- no abs/a/c like our former 95 ...and no sunroof of course
- not wanting to swiss cheese anything (not bumper supports or doors, etc.)




...but the more I read about weight, the more it seems the 91 is the best possible option for least amount of weight.. not sure why there would be a difference between 91 and 92 but it seems that there is....
 

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At 2300ish lbs, I have glass windows that roll up and down, door locks since I park downtown, even ghetto areas occasionally, although the actual power locks are unplugged as the wires are gone but I've only took out one of the four actuators, nothing is Swiss cheesed although if you crash with a jdm bumper support you will need a new bumper support. A mini cooper squished mine, I pulled it out but it really needs to be replaced since it sort of warped now. I even still have ABS cause I drive 22k+ miles a year and probably half or more is in rain or snow. I have a top half of the dash, but it hollow underneath.

..but the more I read about weight, the more it seems the 91 is the best possible option for least amount of weight.. not sure why there would be a difference between 91 and 92 but it seems that there is....
91 is the most basic p10. Wiring is way different as far as where they put relays and stuff. They don't even have window switch on the passenger side door.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
^ you don't have heat any more with no heater core though, right?

..keeping the heater core is a requirement as well (we need heat and defrost ability on colder/foggy and/or rainy track day races)


Staring with 2617 is doable... I guess 91 is the only option at this point... hmmmmm.. might have to talk to Snickers about his 91 again.. lol
 

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my 91 and 92 were identical cars other than my 92 had leather and my 91 was cloth. but once that was out, the 2 cars are exactly the same. I have cut A LOT of stuff out of my car, small brackets, tabs, nubs, rear deck (not small) and plenty of other little things that are not needed once stuff is removed. This made a HUGE difference.

my 92 DOES NOT have ABS anymore, or any other accessory. Also, another thing to note, is that the 93.5+ air bag dash bar weighs like 1 2.0lbs more atleast than the 91-93 bar. the early bar is made from 16ga tubing with just a few additions on it while the later one is 11ga and has a lot of extra strengthening for the air bags and stuff.

I do plan on adding heat back in, but i have a heater box cut up really good just to supply the defrost, front center vents, and floor and a simple heat or no heat. my current heater box weighs in at 3lbs complete with the heater core. thats ok for up here since heat is needed... and i will go cut 3 lbs out elsewhere.

When i have been having to add in brackets to the car i have been using aluminum for sure. I also have cut out and rebuilt the stock radiator support, for my own reasons, but little things like that are saving LBS.

I DO plan to partially gut my rear doors and cut the skins and other pieces out, i will leave the support crash bars in though.

i think you would be suprised how much weight you can save by removing little things that you cant just unbolt... and "interpretting" the rules works well too
 

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^ you don't have heat any more with no heater core though, right?
Heater core, and all the stock hvac is gone. I have 3" tubing piping fresh air from the cowl to the center vents I usually leave open in the summer, and 4" tubing going from the cowl through an attwood bilge blower that pumps fresh air to the front defroster vents. With one or both front windows cracked an inch or so, it works okay when moving, not super great when stopped in traffic and it is really cold or really humid out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks guys... I guess we'll see if a 91 or 92 no sunroof manual g20 vs. 01-05 Miata manual presents itself in Phoenix this year over thanksgiving or christmas week because that will be the determining factor (need winter months to build it for the 2014 season)
 
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