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I'm currently at 181K+ KM (~113K mi). I've had an 'oil consumption' issue since I got the car (67K km, ~42K mi). However, I get killer mileage, and as Loek will concur, NEVER a hint/sight of blue smoke from my exhaust. Would going up to a 10W30, (or other 10w40/50?) help slow it down? I'm thinking it's ~1L per 2,000 km? I know my #1 cyl compression is lower that the other three (sorry don't have the #'s off-hand, but IIRC, #1 is lower by ~ 10-12psi vs the other cylinders). Like I said, the car has always run great, just annoying to keep checking the oil so often.
 

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'Luke'
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I concur, never saw a hint of blue smoke, driving behind Lou. But his oil level always went down slowly. No leaks either. Very odd !
Btw I run 5W40 Motul V300 now, absolutely great, also at start-up.
 

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grimsta, I'm undecided if I should go for OEM Nissan or royal purple ATF transmission oil for my auto with 90K miles. which do you think is better?
OEM Nissan Matic D is basically Dexron 3. Any off the shelf Dexron3/Mercon ATF would be just as good. I have Maxlife Dex/Merc in mine. If you opt for synthetic, Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline, Royal Purple are all good.

I'm currently at 181K+ KM (~113K mi). I've had an 'oil consumption' issue since I got the car (67K km, ~42K mi). However, I get killer mileage, and as Loek will concur, NEVER a hint/sight of blue smoke from my exhaust. Would going up to a 10W30, (or other 10w40/50?) help slow it down? I'm thinking it's ~1L per 2,000 km? I know my #1 cyl compression is lower that the other three (sorry don't have the #'s off-hand, but IIRC, #1 is lower by ~ 10-12psi vs the other cylinders). Like I said, the car has always run great, just annoying to keep checking the oil so often.
lou, sounds like you're burning oil. Moving up to a 10w30 could help. But try a high quality synthetic like Syntec 0w-30 (german), I've got it in the p11 for the winter fill and it feels fine. that 5w30 'regular' syntec I saw in your trunk last time is actually one of the thinnest 30wt oils, go check castrol's website for the product information sheet.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
I'm currently at 181K+ KM (~113K mi). I've had an 'oil consumption' issue since I got the car (67K km, ~42K mi). However, I get killer mileage, and as Loek will concur, NEVER a hint/sight of blue smoke from my exhaust. Would going up to a 10W30, (or other 10w40/50?) help slow it down? I'm thinking it's ~1L per 2,000 km? I know my #1 cyl compression is lower that the other three (sorry don't have the #'s off-hand, but IIRC, #1 is lower by ~ 10-12psi vs the other cylinders). Like I said, the car has always run great, just annoying to keep checking the oil so often.
No blue smoke doesnt sound like its burning. I suppose its possible very small quantities could burn over a long period of time, but its probably the oil's volatility, what are you using, Mobil? I know Mobil does this. Mobil will "disappear" over a period time.

OEM Nissan Matic D is basically Dexron 3. Any off the shelf Dexron3/Mercon ATF would be just as good. I have Maxlife Dex/Merc in mine. If you opt for synthetic, Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline, Royal Purple are all good.
Yeah, Maxlife is good stuff, thats what we use at the shop for autos
 

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Please excuse my stupid question but I'm a newbie. I have 93.5 with 210K, should I be running a high mileage conventional or synthetic? This is my DD and I'm kinda on a budget, so I've been looking at going to a place that uses Castrol. How is Castrol? Your thoughts are much appreciated.
 

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...I wanna know more about that castrol edge too. I want to give it a try but dont wanna buy and waste my money ya know.... Castrol syntec $6.99, Castrol Edge $7.99.
I've been using Amsoil in my cars now for nearly 10 years - I've gotten great performance using their recommended extended drain intervals. I always planned to Amsoil use for future oil changes.

I was ready to order some earlier this week (I was actually a couple of weeks overdue based on their year interval, not mileage). However, I had stopped into Advance Auto to buy something else and noticed they had a special on the Castrol Edge: $29.99 for 5 quarts of 10W30 including a "Bosch Distance Plus" filter (I will be changing at 5k miles based on the info I've read here). The special ended today - sorry I didn't see this post earlier. :*(

This price was considerably less than Amsoil so I decided to give it a try.

From the "naked eye/ear" perspective it seems to perform similar to the Amsoil. It claims a 15,000 mi / 1 year change interval. I will likely get an analysis done when I change the filter.
 

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drunken master
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just saying this but the b15 i 6 speed swaped used amsoil and his car had over 200K on it and not a single oil leak are seep was in sight during the whole swap i did go ahead and replace the rear main seal anyway since i was their.
i sell motul but am also a amsoil dealer but dont keep stock of it.

I sent some sperm to a lab once came back it cures cancer. who would have thoght? lol
 

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1995 G20 w/ 125K Mi

I've got a 1995 G20 with about 125K miles on it for may daily driver. I live in the mountains and commute about 35 miles climbing almost 3000 ft each way. Live in Nor Cal, temp rarely drops below 32 but mostly in the 80's. Engine in usually between 3000 rpm and 4000 rpm for most of the drive unless I'm going to pass someone.

Currently using Royal Purple 5W-30. I haven't noticed a MPG gain by switching to RP and in my '05 Tahoe actually noticed a MPG drop. Any thoughts?
 

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Chevy's suck?

Jason, you should come up to the shop some time! :)
Yeah yeah yeah, but when I bought the 'hoe it was better priced and more comfortable than any other SUV I could afford. Still glad I did it.

I'm out in Boulder Creek, so if I do end up a bit north I'll stop by the shop. My G20 is really just a commute car, no special mods just general maintenance, but most folks are impressed at the pickup it has for a 1995 commuter. I have been known to pull away from WRX's on HWY9 and skyline blvd, but that's probably due to idiots buying WRX's and thinking that'll make them better drivers...
 

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This info was created by Jdub on Supramania. He is THE MAN when it comes to this stuff. I think it would do the world a great good to learn this :):


Next up is Castrol SynTec European Formula 0W-30 (aka German Castrol, it must say made in Germany on the back):

It’s API Service Category SL, SJ. It exceeds ACEA A3 requirements and meets ILSAC GF-3/GF-2 emission system capability requirements. This oil far exceeds API Service Category SF, SG requirements.

Here's the data sheet

This data sheet is provides minimum info…I’ll add a few pertinent figures:
40 deg C viscosity (from analysis): 72.9 cSt
Velocity Index (from analysis): 166
Pour Point (from Material Safety Sheet): -40 deg F
Flash Point (from Material Safety Sheet): 437 deg F
A basic volatility test revealed: a 9% loss at 4 hours and 17.5% loss at 8 hours at ~340 deg F.

Here’s an oil analysis from another user on a virgin oil sample (in PPM):

Iron..................3
Silicon...............4
Sodium............14
Potassium……....12
Moly................<5
Phosphorus…...903
Zinc.............1157
Calcium.........1941
Magnesium......770

Gas Chromatograph and Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) analysis revealed the base stock appears to be a blend of mostly 4 cSt PAO with either 6 cSt or 8 cSt cuts. The oil is comprised of Group IV PAO base stock (plus additives). The above analysis did not show any esters in this oil, but a different, more thorough EI and CI Mass Spectrometer analysis did reveal esters of a type not seen in other oils.

Why would I use this oil? Its very good ;)

- German Castrol is a true synthetic oil…no Group I, II, or III base stock at all. IMO this is important for a turbo car considering the heat produced by the turbo. I did not want any problems keeping my SP61 turbo cool (it’s oil cooled only) and avoid any chance of the oil coking on engine shutdown.
- The oil flows very well cold, getting the oil up to the cams and to the bearing quickly where it’s needed the most. German Castrol is on the thick side for a 0W-30…the 40 deg C and 100 deg C (operating temp) cSt numbers confirm this.
- At engine operating temperature, this oil gives me excellent pressure at idle (10-15 psi) and at 3000 rpm (45-50 psi)
- The Viscosity Index is high, indicating that this oil will resist viscosity degradation over time. It appears to have few viscosity modifiers as additives…this means the base oil itself handles the rated viscosity range very well. It also means a higher percentage of actual oil vs additives.
- The oil has low volatility and a high flash point, indicating consumption from oil evaporation will be minimal. This is typical for synthetic oils.
- German Castrol has an excellent additive pack. Well formulated detergents and anti-wear additives. My only wish is that it had a bit more moly
- Not scientific, but my valve train is quieter running this oil…definite difference from Mobil 1 5W-30 and Amsoil 0W-30 I’ve tried. It’s quite possible the thicker nature of the German Castrol is the reason.

I also run a quart of 100% ester based oil (VP Racing RS530…another excellent oil) as a seal conditioner. The ester helps to keep the seals soft and keep the motor clean. This is probably not necessary due to the formulation of German Castrol, but it sure won’t hurt either

German Castrol can run at an 8,000 mile change interval…a PAO base stock oil will easily go this long. Based on other results others have seen with this oil doing the same thing, it should last until the 12-15,000 mile range.

The only place I know of in the US to get the German Castrol is at AutoZone…you may have to ask for it or special order it. It only comes in a 0W-30…any other Castrol SynTec you see on the shelf is a Group III base stock…it is not a true synthetic oil. In Canada, it’s my understanding is WalMart and Canadian Tire sell the German Castrol. This oil would be especially good for those cold winters up North
I have been telling people about 0-30GC for a LONG time. Noone GETS it. I cut oil consumption from 1qt in 2500 miles in my 2001 WS6 (LS1) to 3/4qt in 4500 miles just by switching to it. Even in the LS1, it has a service-life according to samples sent to Blackstone of around 8-9K miles. It is a VERY! good oil.
 

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^^^ lol if you go to post #'s 181-184, they told me to go with this specific oil back in Dec '09, but I guess I never clued in properly. After reading your personal experience with the German 0W30 Castrol Syntec, I'll have to give it a try. I'm due for an oil change now.
 

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They're all amazingly good if you change the oil and filter regularly and don't abuse the engine. You can find any number of stories of 1,000,000 mile Chevy pickups using Pennzoil dino oil. Not a recommendation, just pointing out that modern engines can run a very long time with no magic, just regular maintenance. There are certainly superior oils but anything with recent SAE certification is going to be extremely good.

When I started driving, 50 years ago, most cars had significant engine work before 100,000 miles. Valves burned, main bearings worn, cam and followers scored, most old engines were nightmares, even with 2,000 mile oil change intervals. Most people ran straight weight oils and some even used non-detergent oil, if you can imagine such a thing. When you tore apart an old car it would often be full of sludge, so much that the oil could hardly circulate.

Everything has improved to where I feel completely confident of my G20 with 150,000 miles. Something could go tomorrow but it is a lot more likely that it run many more miles before I have problems and the engine is not the number one candidate for failure.

Those with highly tuned cars have a whole other set of requirements and I respect your need for higher performance oil. With a stocker I'm quite happy with the ordinary stuff.
 

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Pining for "DMSentra"
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They're all amazingly good if you change the oil and filter regularly and don't abuse the engine. You can find any number of stories of 1,000,000 mile Chevy pickups using Pennzoil dino oil. Not a recommendation, just pointing out that modern engines can run a very long time with no magic, just regular maintenance. There are certainly superior oils but anything with recent SAE certification is going to be extremely good.

When I started driving, 50 years ago, most cars had significant engine work before 100,000 miles. Valves burned, main bearings worn, cam and followers scored, most old engines were nightmares, even with 2,000 mile oil change intervals. Most people ran straight weight oils and some even used non-detergent oil, if you can imagine such a thing. When you tore apart an old car it would often be full of sludge, so much that the oil could hardly circulate.

Everything has improved to where I feel completely confident of my G20 with 150,000 miles. Something could go tomorrow but it is a lot more likely that it run many more miles before I have problems and the engine is not the number one candidate for failure.

Those with highly tuned cars have a whole other set of requirements and I respect your need for higher performance oil. With a stocker I'm quite happy with the ordinary stuff.
Key words in Penzcrap's success. Leave it too long and there's problems. You can count on when you pull and engine apart and see it sludged up it's pennzoil. Yes, been there, done 20 years of it. I will not willingly add paraffin to my lubricating system.
 

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Bringing this back around the way since there are other oils on the market that I haven't seen mentioned. And a recap correct me if I'm wrong,
but Pennzoil Platinum is it a Group III or a real synthetic oil and it is better than Mobil1/Mobil1 HM right?? And is Mobil1 HM any better at being a synthetic oil or no?

Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic what kind of oil is this and is it better than Castrol EDGE

So My question is how does this list go?????
Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic
Castrol EDGE
Pennzoil Platinum
 

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Well I finally found German made 0W30! For you Canadian folk, Crappy Tire had it. Only in 1L bottles, but strangely, it was cheaper than any of the local made in the US stuff! $6.99/L vs $7.99-8.99/L. And Wally Mart had it but was expensive; $8.87/L. Hopefully I have time to change it this upcoming weekend.
 
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