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There's a thread on the Legacy GT forums about Shell Rotella T6 synthetic. It's apparently quite good -- people are getting 10,000+ mi OCI recommendations on oil analyses for turbo 4s with the boost turned way up. Apparently the new CJ-4 formulation is the one you want; it will say on the bottle (and the bottle is also shaped more aerodynamically on the CJ-4 than on the CI-4).

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rotella-t-5w40-run-sti-oil-analysis-bitog-105302.html
 

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Discussion Starter #202 (Edited)
Yeah, T6 is great stuff. I've been running it in my Titan. Still gonna stick w/ Eneos in the G20 and Supra. There IS a difference in what makes up Eneos and T6 and I like to keep what I got with Eneos in those cars.
But the Titan which the VK56 appears to exhibit high shear properties the T6 has a better add pack for the shear. I still wouldnt run 10,000 miles on ANY oil though.

Rotella T6 is a true full synthetic. A full Group IV base stock, which is what attracted me to it in the first place. When I was considering oils for the Titan (i had been using Castrol GTX to much success but couldnt live with myself much longer not running synthetic, and I wasnt gonna throw down the insane cash for damn near 2 gallons of Eneos!!!) I had considered Pennzoil Ultra, O'Reilly's "Full synthetic" and Castrol Edge. Well after doing research O'Reilly's was just crap (makes sense right?) but not for reasons you would think. It IS a synthetic oil but a mix of Group III and IV base stocks and ontop of that the add pack is really light in protectants. Not really appearing to be suited for spirited driving or prolonged drain intervals.
Then Penn Ultra and Cast Edge are not actually true FULL SYNTHETICS. They get away with claiming synthetic status because they use Group IV base stocks, but its a blend with Group III and Group IV base stocks. I didnt want any Group III in my truck if I was going syn.- might as well stick with dino...
BUT Then I came across Rotella T6, did my research, liked what I saw and ran with it. Haven noticed a difference in much anything, but thats the reality of oils. Usually people who claim to feel a power difference or mileage difference are actually feeling the placebo effect or if they're getting better mileage something has changed in their driving.
I'm not dogging Penn Ultra or Cast Edge because they ARE good oils. They just didnt have what I was looking for and they will offer better protection that many other oils out there
 

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Ok well since I wont be able to get a Full True Synthetic oil from a majority of places, I would like to purchase the best "synthetic" oil that I can go to the local chain auto store to purchase. Maybe one day I'll go for a one of a kind oil (ex. Amsoil/t6/Eneos) and since some of these are at special performance shops I would like to get something I can get everywhere in case of an emergency. So basically whats the best "synthetic" oil you can purchase from a Pep boys/Advanced Auto/Autozone etc, to put in a daily driver that faces all weather climates???
 

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I put a 3 inch diameter cat back exhaust on my '96 G20. I am needing to add 1/3 quart oil every 1000mi. It has 175k miles of city and highway miles on it. Do I need to add oil because of miles or 3 inch exhaust?
 

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The exhaust is totally independent of the engine internals and will not affect oil consumption. Is there a leak, or is it burning the oil? Either way, a quart every 3000 mi is not bad. If you had a Subaru with 175k that was only consuming that much, you'd be counting your blessings. My brother's Forester with 160k is eating a quart every 600-1000 mi. Just fix any external leaks (especially easy ones like valve cover and oil pan gaskets), check your oil frequently, and periodically evaluate whether oil consumption is increasing.
 

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this got bumped so i will post here cuz its been on my mind for a while.
Is it bad mixing synthetic and regular motor oil for use in a sr20? i got 2 quarts leftover from our corolla and i wanted to mixit with regular oil for my next oil change on the G. was tinkg of 3qt regular and .7 of synthetic, same brand pennzoil motor oils.
 

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Considering how many oils are synthetic/dino blends, I'm fairly sure it is perfectly fine as long as you maintain an appropriate oil change interval.
 

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I mix all the time with no issues. I never mixed a high quality like ethos which is a different class of oil with dino. But mix reg with mobil1 or walmart brand sythetic then yup all the time. Mobil1 isn't even considered synthetic oil in other parts of the world.
 

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Mobil1 isn't considered synthetic here, either. It's marketed as such, but it has a mineral base stock, not PAO like real synthetics have. That has been discussed earlier in the thread, as well.

Even for real, high-quality full synthetics (Amsoil, Eneos, German Castrol Syntec, Rotella T6, etc.), think about it logically for a second. The purpose of oil is to lubricate (and, in some turbos, to cool, but that's a special case). Any other concerns are mostly issues because some properties of some oils reduce the efficacy of them lubricating some engines. Problems with sludging, shearing, flash point, contamination, etc. are secondary to the lubrication issue.

Say you use the shittiest oil out there. I don't know, Quaker Stater dino? If you use it in an engine that is not hard on oil (e.g. a stock SR20DE), and use a 3000-mi OCI, the oil you drain at that 3000-mi OCI will still be sufficient to lubricate the engine. I wouldn't recommend leaving it in for a 10k-mi OCI, but 3k is fine; it will have broken down a decent amount, but not enough that it would be dangerous to the engine. Now, say you combine the Quaker State half-and-half with Amsoil. Is it going to cause any problem with lubrication? No, brand-new 5w30 is brand-new 5w30, no matter what. The only way there could be a problem is if the combination somehow deteriorates faster than the Quaker State on its own. When you consider the superior additive pack in the Amsoil (which gets evenly distributed through the oil as the two types mix), it's actually going to deteriorate a decent amount slower.
 

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Discussion Starter #210
Here's an interesting bit on Rotella T6. So we had a Miata in the shop with horrid valve tick. Typical of 1st gen Miatas and you either have to thoroughly clean out the hydro lifters or put in the updated part. Both incur alot of expense to the customer. He had ran regular dino 5w30 and regular dyno 10w40 and the noise persisted. We switched him over to Rotella T6 5w40, noise goes away. T6 has got what the Miata wants! lol
 

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Ok well since I wont be able to get a Full True Synthetic oil from a majority of places, I would like to purchase the best "synthetic" oil that I can go to the local chain auto store to purchase. Maybe one day I'll go for a one of a kind oil (ex. Amsoil/t6/Eneos) and since some of these are at special performance shops I would like to get something I can get everywhere in case of an emergency. So basically whats the best "synthetic" oil you can purchase from a Pep boys/Advanced Auto/Autozone etc, to put in a daily driver that faces all weather climates???
Didn't see this post before. I got four 1-gallon jugs of Rotella T6 from Autozone. They should also be available at Advance and WalMart, I think. Just make sure you get the new CJ formulation if you can (CI is still good, just not quite as good as CJ).
 

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awesome info man! I've been trying to find the best oil for my high-milage sr (230k right now). I'm currently using mobil1 10w40, but i've been considering changing it up. What would you recommend for a higher mileage engine?

ive was using the factory recommended oil weight on my 220k motor and the oil light started coming on..
Then switched to straight 30 weight and its been running smoother than ever..

Now to figure out the ideal weight for a high mileage lsd /tranny
 

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ive was using the factory recommended oil weight on my 220k motor and the oil light started coming on..
Then switched to straight 30 weight and its been running smoother than ever..

Now to figure out the ideal weight for a high mileage lsd /tranny
Straight 30 weight is the dumbest thing to ever put into your car if you think you had problems before that 30wt is not good for cold start situations. Run a 5w30.10w40 or whatever but straight 30wt is absolutely stupid if you want longevity out of your high mileage engine.
 

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I agree. Have used Amsoil Signature Series and Amsoil filters for 5 years on my 01 and 02 Gs. Run for 1 year or 15,000 miles. No problems so far.
 

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so I have a 2001 g20 bought last month with 139,000 about to have an oil change and am thinking im going to go with the enos 5-30...? is the 5-30 all its cracked up to be from them....also thinking of getting a purolator filter. Grimsta is the 5w-30 a good oil from them or were you talking about 5-40 from that brand being great? Also would going from 5-30 to 5-40 in cold nj winters be a bad idea? or are all their oils great? thanks.... new member here who has been buying f**** tons of parts for this thing to get it right and since im investing so much I want to keep it around and not cheap out on filters and oil. so far... valve cover gasket(done)...two new front axles sitting in living room....2 new hubs(just in case others are not to my liking) 2inner wheel bearings for front....4 new spark plugs...hopefully after this all I will need is some bushings to tighten up the front end. O yea and the weapon ri is here waiting for me to have time to put it in...just concerned about dealing with all the crap axles i been getting for this thing....gonna just have to rebuild the oem
 
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