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Well, i decided to go with the Royal Purple 5w30 and a Purolator PureOne oil filter. Reason being, it only costs me $27 for an oil change that way. The Mobil1 actually costs more than that. I'll try it out and see if i like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #162 (Edited)
$27 for Royal Purple and the filter??? Where you work Pep Boyz?

Thing about RP's "claims" is EVERY oil manufacturer claims better fuel economy or power then the other. Hell, TORCO even claims you'll get more power because its thinner and causes less drag on the crank, but the friggin crank doesnt even sit down soaked in oil. The rotating mass sits about the oil on most of our japanese vehicles. Even my fav. Eneos claims better fuel economy and power. But I dont believe ANY of them. Power claims that any oil allege are just ridiculous because its not you're going to get 10hp more from stupid oil. The power gains they are talking about is like 5 at the most, any gains which may show up anywhere which are well within a dyno's margin of error. And fuel mileage testing can be shady as well. Like we all know by now K&N doctors its CFM numbers, same stuff with oil
 

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pep boys has a $10 off $30 coupon online right now so if they have oil you like you guys should use the coupons.

Walmart just lowered it's price of M1 to $22 for the jug. Wish they would lower the supertech because that is up to $17.00. My bargain oil isn't looking like so much of a bargain anymore :(
 

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$27 for Royal Purple and the filter??? Where you work Pep Boyz?

Thing about RP's "claims" is EVERY oil manufacturer claims better fuel economy or power then the other. Hell, TORCO even claims you'll get more power because its thinner and causes less drag on the crank, but the friggin crank doesnt even sit down soaked in oil. The rotating mass sits about the oil on most of our japanese vehicles. Even my fav. Eneos claims better fuel economy and power. But I dont believe ANY of them. Power claims that any oil allege are just ridiculous because its not you're going to get 10hp more from stupid oil. The power gains they are talking about is like 5 at the most, any gains which may show up anywhere which are well within a dyno's margin of error. And fuel mileage testing can be shady as well. Like we all know by now K&N doctors its CFM numbers, same stuff with oil
I work at a local (Northeastern) auto parts place called Consumer Auto Parts. Our cash customer price on RP is $7.99/qt, my price is $4.95.

We don't carry Purolator so i had to go to Advanced Auto Parts and get the filter for $6.
 

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I just read the entire thread and this caught my eye.

20/50 is a good idea on engines with more than 250,000 miles. The intervals we move up in viscosity at the shop is 0-120K = OEM fill, 120K-250K = 10w40 or 5w40 Eneos, 250K + = 50weight. Whether it be 20w50, 10w50, 5w50 or just plain 50, lol.
I consider myself decently educated when it comes to engine oil, weights, etc. but I always hear recommendations of heavier oils (heavier than the manufacturer recommends) for higher mileage cars. Can you explain this in a couple of sentences? Just assume I know what you're talking about, I can look things up if I need to. Just hit me with the general idea.

I assume the theory is that the tolerances between the main and rod bearings are likely widening? Is this not a myth itself? If it is not a myth, does this mean if you've replaced the main and rod bearings with new, you should switch back to the lighter oil?

Also, while you're at it, can you explain why heavier oils are typically recommended in high output / turbo applications? Is the assumption made that higher rpms will be sustained, or is there something about the power that actually benefits from heavier oil? Or is this an improper recommendation?
 

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Discussion Starter #167
/\/\ You hit it on the head with the higher mileage vehicles and tolerances. But its more than just bearings. Piston rings, valve train clearances, which valve lash can usually be adjusted but there are other clearances. AND you also got it right that when we rebuild and engine with all new parts we go back to the lighter weight oil.

As for high output and turbo applications, heavier oils arent recommended... necesarily. I mean, heavy as compared to what? In my Supra I use a 0w50, although it has a 50 in the title its actually not very heavy. I had a customer who bought a Supra and the previous owner told him to put friggin Delo 15w50 in the car, I was like "WTF!? What a jackass". Just because thats what you're supposed to use in a turbo diesel doesnt mean thats what you use in a turbo automobile! Infact heavier oils in a turbo vehicle ARE NOT recommended by performance standards. You need the thinness to lubricate better. THicker oils are kind of more recommended out of ignorance.
But its 2 fold, they may say thicker oil because turbos generate more heat. When I used a 5w30 on my Supra oil pressure would almost drop to 0 at idle on a competition day that was very hot. With Eneos 0w50, I maintain 10psi higher. If your turbo vehicle has an issue w/ your oil thinning out to much when it gets hot, I dont recommend thicker oil, I recommend some heat shielding, a cooling system, and better oil. As a last resort use a slightly thicker oil, but no Delo 15w50
 

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Discussion Starter #169
yes, supposed to be. But based on that and the composition of Castrol Green, Eneos, Amsoil, Redline, those would also be those "ultra high quality" oil. And actually Redline would beat all of them out since its a pure Ester based oil
 

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I think the heavier oil for high perf use is from the dino oil days and before all the modifiers and stabilizers. I'm sure if you used a 1960s or 70s era oil you would find much shorter oil life. Couple that to sloppier tolerances in the past and heavier oil makes sense (up to a point)
We went round and round with this in the early/mid 90s on the old SER list.

Great info BTW, thanks Grimsta!
 

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Hey grimsta,

Whats your thoughts and opinions on Mobil 1 0W-20 & 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy?
 

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Discussion Starter #172
Not in a G20, way to thin.

But I dont have any data on that. I also dont have any data on Castrol Edge which I am interested to see because is supposed to be "better" than Syntec
 

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Nissan sells a pure ester based oil for use in the 370z (gtr too maybe IDK). Heard it is $12 a quart. I am switching all my cars to valvoline just because the price has dropped and walmart brand has increased.
 

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Nissan sells a pure ester based oil for use in the 370z (gtr too maybe IDK). Heard it is $12 a quart. I am switching all my cars to valvoline just because the price has dropped and walmart brand has increased.
Is that the Valvoline "synthetic" version? If so, where do you get it? I'd buy at Wal-Mart, but all the Wal-Marts in my area are super far away.
 

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Not in a G20, way to thin.

But I dont have any data on that. I also dont have any data on Castrol Edge which I am interested to see because is supposed to be "better" than Syntec
Ooooo i see. I thought that too. Can my friend use it on his '00 daily driver 1.6 automatic civic lx?

I wanna know more about that castrol edge too. I want to give it a try but dont wanna buy and waste my money ya know.

You can find valvoline synthetic at your nearest auto parts stores. At my store its priced at $6.99 a quart. Mobil 1 synthetic (1qt) $6.99, Mobil 1 Ex. Perf $7.49, Castrol syntec $6.99, Castrol Edge $7.99.
 

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I've read trough the topic but I still can't make a decision.
My G20 has about 95k miles and last time I used Kendall GT-1 5w30 Sunthetic oil. After almost 4k miles the level of oil is normal. So i don't want to go to 10w30 or 10w40 high milege oil. I'd like to use true synthetic oil.
As I understend from this topic the best choice is German Castrol and Royal Purple. But the only "made in German" Castrol that I could find is 0w30. Is it a bad choice in SoCal?
Should I try Eneos 5w40?
Thank you for any suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #177
Eneos' 5w40 is a good oil, so is your Kendall GT1. This topic certainly DOES NOT say the best choice is German Castrol or Royal Purple. It simply offers different analysis. With 95K 5w30 is just find for you. I wouldnt recommend a thicker oil until at least 120K.

I also dont recommend putting a 0w oil and ANY daily driven car unless you live in Alaska, Canada, the Netherlands or somewhere REALLY cold
 

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I also dont recommend putting a 0w oil and ANY daily driven car unless you live in Alaska, Canada, the Netherlands or somewhere REALLY cold
LOL, The Netherlands have the same climate as for instance Vancouver BC. Not very cold here in wintertime. But thanks for thinking of us....
 

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grimsta, I'm undecided if I should go for OEM Nissan or royal purple ATF transmission oil for my auto with 90K miles. which do you think is better?
 
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