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Discussion Starter #421
Looks good. Keep an eye on your bumper that it doesn't start melting. The maui needs a new exhaust. I'm scared to try and undo any of the bolts. They all look rusted really bad. You have any issues?
i sprayed the bolt every night for a week. so not at all. but the CAT has the stupid threads in it. so i had to drill those out cause they were just rotten away pretty much. I didn't mind doing that though. i dont get why infiniti made it with threads on the CAT. so yeah that's really the only "trouble" i ran into. and getting those damn exhaust hanger off. haha.
 

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looks great man. i wish wish my exhaust was as tucked as yours. it used to be BAD, but i took it to midas and they helped a little. still hangs a little though :-\
 

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Discussion Starter #423
looks great man. i wish wish my exhaust was as tucked as yours. it used to be BAD, but i took it to midas and they helped a little. still hangs a little though :-\
Yeah it was so tucked that me and my dad had to modify the heat shields a little bit so the exhaust wouldn't vibrate against them. I would say there is about half an inch between the heat shields and exhaust. IMO perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #425
nice setup, btw are your visors spray painted black?
yeah lou. they came purple unfortunately. :( but i didn't care. i spray painted them with lens tint so they would still be able to see threw them. Worked out nicely since i can still see threw them. lol. but thanks. yeah the car is getting there. needs fresh paint. some cams. and some gauges and i think i may call it a wrap for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #426
so the new exhaust is awesome no doubts about that. But like we all came to the conclusion it needs to extend a little more out the rear of the car. I looked it up on mandrel exhaust's website that a 1 foot pipe is only $5. Thank you steve for the offer but i think it's cheaper to have it shipped to my house at a grand total of $16. also this way i will know that it's the same exact aluminized steel being used. which is good. So yeah i guess i will drive the one hour away to their recommended installation and what not place as well since i live so close and was going to try to contact them to get them to do the 2 inch extension for free. It's always worth a shot since it is supposed to be a bolt up system and it completely was except that it should hang out the rear of the car another 2" so yeah guys we will see. but yeah the bumper has gotten dirty right there more than normal i noticed that and it got yellow. so i am going to try to get that pipe extended before it completely stains the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #427
finally hooked up my oil psi gauge and sender. put the nissport oil distribution block in. changed my oil while i was at everything cause it would have been a big mess if i hadn't before taking everything out. very happy with it. will be more happy when i know it does not leak at all. so yeah. here is the install.



of course i ran a wire then after that. but you get the gist of things.
 

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Discussion Starter #428
put a new pass side axle in the weekend. was super easy to do. i was surprised. Going to put my s3's in this weekend i believe but kind of scared to since i don't want to mess the car up...
 

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Yeah, please enlist a skilled SR20 mechanic to do the work, or if your gonna DIY theres lots of how to info out there...just take your time. I aint bad with a wrench, I myself had mine professionally installed both times, hired a NISSAN TECH/sr20 enthusiast to do a side job. I didnt trust myself to this type of install on my own. Cost me $175.00 for the JWT S3's installed in my P10 w/new tensioner (which I recommend you replace with your cam install)and $200.00 with the TOMEI poncams w/new tensioner and oil squirters installed in my P11 (Different mechanics each time).



Going to put my s3's in this weekend i believe but kind of scared to since i don't want to mess the car up...
 

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Discussion Starter #430
i will probably end up just doing it by myself. it seems to easy. unless i end up having problems like denis. haha. i hope i don't..
 

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i will probably end up just doing it by myself. it seems to easy. unless i end up having problems like denis. haha. i hope i don't..
make sure you follow the guides to a T. make sure you have ALOT of zipties, & no matter what anyone tells you,. MAKE THE WOOD WEDGE THING~!!!!! it will save you tons of headache



alos.


you might want to consider moving you oil pressure sender off of the nisport adapter. people have reported that with the extra weight the block crakcs where it threads in.

i have my sender mounted to my firewall with a SS line running to my nisport
 

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Discussion Starter #433
you might want to consider moving you oil pressure sender off of the nisport adapter. people have reported that with the extra weight the block crakcs where it threads in.

i have my sender mounted to my firewall with a SS line running to my nisport

So the actual part where it threads into the block cracks? like the threads? and i don't get how that is since there really isn't much weight on the thing. and it's not like the sender fills up with oil either. so really only the nissport fills up with oil.
 

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Sounds that simple and is that simple for those who understand and can apply torque value. The torque spec for the cam bolts can be found in the FSM. More then just using a torque wrench it's the degree of turn. Again if your up to installing them make sure you understand how much these bolts need to be torqued and you should be fine. You don't want to start the install mess up and have to pro-long the install beyond the normal 2 to 3hrs and then someone else to assist or complete the install for you. I would have done mine supervised preferably but time is money....so I just paid and stepped aside.



don't you just drain the oil, take off VC, change cams, replace gaskets and put it all back right?
 

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Discussion Starter #436
i have a torque wrench boys. and i remember numbers pretty well. This off the top of my head is the torque for the cam sprocket bolt to the cam. 109 lbs. i believe it could be 109-116 but not sure. and i would always follow the torque specs.
 

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It's the vibrations of the engine, together with the extra weight of the Nissport + oem sender together that can cause the cracking near the sender unit. Better to avoid this. I also use an SS line from the block to the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #438
really.? you guys are going to make me worry about this like that... don't do this to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #440
I talked with mike. he said just change the gaskets and that it was unnecessary to change the whole tensioner. i talked with my dad and he said that he would help me as well. I'm going to buy a torque wrench that does small values since the one i currently have is 1/2 inch drive. lol. going to get a 1/8 or 1/4 inch one depending on what values it does. After i do the whole install i am going to drive down to mike and get it dyno tuned so then i can get the most out of them and so i'm not running rich or lean when not driving hard. So yeah that's the story.
 
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