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Turbo Feed Line for T25 on a P10

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2K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  boostedhks  
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#1 ·
So my oil feed line broke as i had a wrong bent and it touched the exhaust manifold which just finished that line anyways. So i'm looking for pictures or a diagram to show me the right way to route this feed line through the manifold, any input will be helpful. Also what type of line should i get next as the one i had couldn't handle the heat ? I need something that could withstand the headers heat... I was thinking of covering the headers with that stuff to prevent the heat from disipating ?

Ideas ? Pictures ? Suggestions ?

What type of line ? Where to get it ? what angle to take ? etc... rlly trying to not let this happen again..
 
#3 ·
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#4 ·
I'm not too familiar with the fittings, what's the difference between -3AN and -4AN ? What is a restrictor used for ? I'm using the stock fittings that came with the turbo, guessing they're -3AN right ? I will post pictures in a few when i get home so u could see what i'm talking about and exactly what i'm looking for. Steel braided was in my head tho, i kind of figured this will do the work...
 
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#6 ·
Yea i see that, like it doesn't go threaded the hose just plugs into both tips going to the turbo and block and its a pretty tight fit with some clamps on top to hold it down, where could i find this kind ? I don't really want to start from 0 with this and get everything, rather just get the line if thats all i need and wrap up the exhaust mani and call it a week (as i know it won't be done before the weekend)

Or would it be a better idea to just upgrade the whole thing at this point ?
 
#7 ·
To buy the quality stuff, or to not buy the quality stuff, in the end you get what you pay for. If you are unfamiliar with AN fittings, do a search online. The information is out there.

-3an fitting to your turbo requires 7/16-24 I.F. to -3AN, Earl's makes good fittings, AN Plumbing is where I usually get my hardware http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Steel-13.html. ENO is right, good stuff on ATP too.

This thread has a lot of goodness on how to put quality stuff together and make it all work.
http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?102670-Turbo-FAQ

If you need anymore information than that, you're either not reading enough or you lack the ability to read. Good luck man.
 
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#8 ·
Greately appreciate that, thats a great thread u just pasted there. I will go over all this stuff and start ordering it, however i need the car running tonight so i'm just gonna get a replacement high temp hose for now with some thermal wrap for the exhaust and for covering some of the hose until i get those parts. I will assume for next weekend i should have it working. I will post again when i'm about to order them to make sure i get the right parts, thanks again
 
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#10 ·
set a price shipped to 06098 if u find it, do u got the fittings tho for the turbo and block also tho ?

Also i just realized my old line actually melted against the engine, is this normal ? I was told by an emissions tech (as i had to take the car there) that the car is either running hot or need to clean the EGR Valve. My temp usually goes up to 210 and then it cools it down on the aftermarket water temp gauge i have, the stock one is usually a little less that half way, never really overheated however it does sound like the car is running hot.... Any inputs on this ?
 
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#12 · (Edited)
no wideband, AFR shows as very rich, the gauge only shows lean, medium or rich.... its always at rich maxxed out, it's been this way since i bought the car. I just did some research tho, it shows optimal temperature at 100 degrees Celcius which is 210 fahrenheit, so the car is running at optimal temperature... would the EGR valve have something to do with this like the emissions technician said ?
 
#13 ·
It could if the line was resting directly on the EGR tube that links the exhaust manifold to the egr valve. Narrowband O2 gauges are practically useless, running too rich isn't good for your car either, an EGT or Wideband would be needed to better understand how efficiently your engine fires.

Out of curiosity, how are you running the EGR on a turbo setup? Do you have an EGR port welded to your exhaust manifold or to the downpipe? Most people have their EGR systems bypassed when running a turbo.
 
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#14 ·
I think it must of been bypassed in my car then as i don't have any sensors on the manifold or downpipe, only o2 sensor down in the cat, thats it for sensors all along the whole exhaust system. I need a tune to get the car running properly however the car was running great like this before, never had a problem until i started beating on it and didnt check the oil, blew the turbo, a coolant line broke on the back of the engine under the manifold and the manifold cracked as well.... i've been fixing it after that until now that i finally got it running but now seems to have some minor issues...
 
#15 ·
EGR valve sits on your intake manifold, a port off your exhaust manifold (on an NA car) or a port off the exhaust downpipe somewhere (on a turbo car) recirculates the exhaust gases into the intake manifold and the car will reburn those gases.

In the majority of cases, many USDM sr20 engines that have been turbocharged exclude an EGR system because it takes a lot of work to fabricate the components to make the emission system work properly.

So unless you are one of the very rare cases where you have an EGR system with a turbo on a boosted SR20 engine, the emissions guy doesn't know what he's talking about. Everyone pops a resistor in the EGR temp harness plug, and seals off the EGR components.
 
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