you could actually replace the stud without removing the rotor. All you need to is to rotate that stud so theres nothing blocking the back of it, and hit it out as usual.

 

but to remove the rotor, you just need to take the caliper off, 2 17mm bolts.

 

The brake rotor isn't held on by anything really except the wheel being bolted on in front of it. Over time though rust and nasty will sort of seize it in place, just use a big hammer or stick a bolt in the extra threaded hole to pry it off after removing the caliper.

 

Re: Re: Wheel Stud Replcement...

The brake rotor isn't held on by anything really except the wheel being bolted on in front of it.

You sure about that? the centre bolt only holds the drive shaft to the hub. Ive never had to undo that to change brakes, but you are right, its a really big nut, either 27mm or 32mm or whatever and it aint easy to remove.

 

Re: Re: Re: Wheel Stud Replcement...

The centre bolt does take a lot of effort to get off. We had to jump on the end of a 5 foot long piece of steal pipe to get enough leverage to break it when I switched axles. You don't need to remove the axle to get at the stud do you though?

 

nope, thats what i was saying,
to do the stud, you dont have to remove the rotor.
to do the rotors, you dont have to remove the centre shaft bolt.
but if you wanna remove the rotor, remove the caliper, 2x 17mm bolts, thats it.

 

So I don't have to remove the rotor/caliper, I can rotate the wheel and there is a space that the bolt will fit through?

 

yeah, all you need do is jack up the car, support it, remove road wheel, then look at the back of the hub, behind the rotor. You will see the hub is an iregular shape, as you turn the hub, youll see the back of the studs come into view somewhere around there, this means that if you line up the stud you want to remove, to a space, it will drop out once you punch it out.

Your basically making space for it to come out, as the hub blocks the exit of the stud. You could just bash it out, then fiddle about getting the loose bit out. Im just giving you a heads up to save you from fiddling, having saaid that, a snapped or shorted stud would prolly come out easier anyways, just cos its shorter.

 

as for getting the brakes off I have two tips. to get the caliper bolts to come off it's good to have a rubber mallet to use to pound on the end of your socket wrench. but one side of the car (and not the other) you can use your floor jack to budge them. just put your socket wrench on the bolt, and roll the jack underneath it and jack up the end of the wrench until it pops off. on one side of the car the jack will turn the bolts left, and on the other it will turn them right, so on that side just whack it with a mallet. getting the rotots off is simple. I think it takes an 8mm bolt, there was a nice how-to thread that listed the wrong size bolt. go to the hardware store and get one of each of the metric bolts and then you won't have to hit your rotors with a hammer (not recommended). just stick the bolt in the extra hole, screw it in, and pop off the rotor. if you must use a hammer, once again use a soft rubber mallet and not a metal one. instinct says to hit the back of the rotor in order to push it off, but you will have better luck hitting the front. it will bounce back from your hit and pop off that way. I only recommend that for removing old rotors you don't want anymore though.

 

I jacked up the car and took the wheel off... i looked behind the rotor to find a spot where i can get to the back of the bolts. I canted find a place, the dust shield is in the way, unless its on the bottom? Please let me know.
Jon

 

yeah if memory serves me right, its to the lower side, towards the back, dont worry about that just now, just get the old one out, then when the holes there, you can see into it and look for a space to put the new one back in.

worse comes to the worse, if you cant get it back in, you will still have the other 3 studs, which is the same pradicament your in LOL

dont worry, i have faith in you.

 

I am replacing one in the front, on a p10. I don't know if this changes anything... If it doesn't i will go bang on it and hopefully it will turn out alright.
Jon

 

its the same task just bash it out, then look thru the hole to find a spot to replace it.

im going offline shortly so ill post up some refitting distructions for you, read them when you get the old one out.

 

To install a stud do this.

rotate the hub, look thru the hole as you do, so you can see when theres a clear way from the back.

place the stud into the hole from the back and pull it thru straight with your fingers. give it a little twists (left to right) so the splines locate themselves.

now using a 12mm ring spanner, place that over the stud protruding from the disc/hub so it rests against the surface of the disc/hub.

now get a wheel nut, this should be a thru nut ie the hole goes all the way thru right. The side that touches the rim is tapered, the other is flat. Turn it around and use the flat side to screw onto the stud. The flat side will then rest upon the ring spanner.

Use your wheel brace and tighten the nut, this will draw the stud into position. Just tighten till you cant. You may need someone to press the brake pedal.

*The ring spanner is there to protect the disc/hub and to act as a spacer. The nut is reversed so you dont damage the side that contacts the rim. Some nuts have tapers which are slightly larger than the grip area, in those cases where you cant get the brace onto a reversed nut, you may have to use it the correcct way round or find an old nut to use instead*

Now lossen it off and remove the spanner.

Refit wheel.

*dont worry if you cant get the stud to pull all the way out, when you put your wheel back on, it will pull it tight. Just recheck your wheel nuts after a short drive.

 

After much violence and furious anger I got the old one out, only to find there isn't a hole in the dust guard on the other side of the bolts. I used a flashlight through the hole and rotated it all the way around and looked. I can't find a single place except for underneath the brake caliper housing. In the process of retireving the arrant bolt, my rotor popped off which made it so i could get the bolt out. I hooked it back up as 3 lugs, so I can do a few short trips. I will try again tomorrow when my light returns, I'll will just go buy some more tools to take the caliper off.
Am I just not looking in the right place?
Thanks for the help everybody.
Jon

 

I just went to the store, bought the necessary parts and did it yesterday evening. Easiest thing ever when you have the right tools. Seriously took me 20 minutes. Thanks everybody who posted info... I think I understand what you were saying about the notch in the dust shield now, however it is behind the caliper. Taking off the cailper was easy, just had to use a little socket wrench and a little effort.
Thanks
Jonathan

 

yeah, there easy to do. i did 2 on the front driver side and 1 on the passenger side in less than an hour.

 

P-11 Front Wheel Stud Broke

Tried to take the P-11 front wheel off and sheared one stud. I replaced one sheared stud on my old 69 dodge before but that was on a drum brake. I guess replacement procedure will be the same as P-10 as described in the thread. Just to be sure, do I only need to take the 2 14mm bolts and caliper off (No need to take the 2 17mm bolts and rotor off) in order to make room for old stud to come off and new stud to go on? Also do I need to put the manual transmission in neutral and jack up two front wheels in order to rotate wheel into a position for stud to come out? Thanks in advance.