[p10det]

Plugging the vac line would make it leak more and than cause surge. Come on man!
What is up with you westys lol. I t ok of you I run my greddy type s open with no noticeable friability problem at all have done this with many mad and injector and ecu combos like this. so IM just letting you know with a good valve and no other problems you should not experience drivqbility problems. I have set up many 240sxs hear with similar no problem.
I also with nistune in my daily with s13 ecu can hop right in the car and begin driving worn engine ice cold from time to time and do not exhibit any drivability problems. But when I used jwt years back that is a diffent story

 

[Meunvmost]

your tellin me, ive done plenty of 240's and still own 3 240's and ive never had this many issues with a SR20 EVERY.... So i leak checked the valve and its sealed. i simply took off the vacuum to the BOV to see if it being open atmosphere causes any issues. and ive seen plenty 240 SR's running with no bov even bov with no vacuum and run just fine.

so im gonna double check timing today and see where its at again.

 

[p10det]

Cool if you want to explain the problem you are having a little please do. I can try to help.
I Gabby seen that Bov not leak before lol. Usually the leaks from it are minor found spraying it with soapy water. But you would be amazed on how many cars leak boost that people don't notice.
I just finished a s14 stock rebuild and swap sr guy should pick it up tomorrow. Drives nice but engine needs brakeing in still so no testing it lol

 

[Meunvmost]

so the problem is,

starts up perfect, cold start idle etc, warms up, go for a drive in the parking lot and stumbles and dies when i engage clutch (put load) it feels hesitant, intake popping, wants to die and go no where. engage clutch take load off engine goes back to idling perfect.

i notice at idle sitting, i rev the engine and its backfiring in the intake at peak of the rev

 

[seguroski]

I could burn a set of chips with the basic Z32 MAF 370cc injector @ 4 bar,
if you want to try. I also have a calum and the best way the car runs is with the 370cc program.
I've ran the 550cc program and it has hiccups here and there so I'd recommend to go back to the basics
with the Calum ECU.

 

[Meunvmost]

I wonder if the car is running out of fuel..... Hmmmm

I'm gonna post a video tomorrow

 

[p10det]

Do you have a wide band?. I have axes to a chip burner but I have never burned chips for a Nissan.
To my knowledge I can set up a ROM on my nistune confirm its calibration and operation than burn that modified ROM to chips and send them to someone.
Never done it. What I know for sure is the roms I have modified in re Al time did not have the little bugs I used to experience with jwts roms on cold running engine.

Reset ecu and disconnect o2 sensor and see if this big goes away. The skinny sensor is not set up correctly if you had not for harness modification and you are more than likely getting messed up readings.
Since it when its warm it might be an effect of a o2 reading where closed loop is doing not so nice things because the ecu thinks afr is different that actual reading. I think for your ecu the 87 300zx turbo o2 will work as a replacement you just have to change the connector and wire o2 correctly.
I have this o2 for my s13 ecu and been lazy about hooking it up and welding m12.1.25 but for a bung.
I set my ecu scaleing with out o2feed back so when enabled the ecu does very little intend of reining and adding. The big reason I have been driving around WIth out an o2 sensor and only side effect is some loss in fuel economy

 

[Meunvmost]

figured it out...

found this post on nicoclub

Re: SR bogging horribly!! Searched to no avail!!

Postby Speedracer5767 » Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:01 pm
Final update!!!!!--->

After trial and error of swapping parts and buying new ones, I have fixed the problem. I recently purchased an intercooler setup for an S14 SR, had to fab a bit but it looks way better than my old one. Problem still persisted after the new kit, so that narrowed out any sort of a boost leak( new couplers and T-bolt clamps too). I started to look into fuel issues and all the injectors checked out great. No leaks or malfunctions, walbro worked fine with last setup and F/F is a new 300ZX, however......I went back to my previous suspicion of the FPR. I found a guy that had an Aeromotive Adj. FPR already setup for an SR. He was kind enough to let me borrow it to test with. So I bolted it on and went for some test drives. At first my a** dyno couldnt tell a difference, still felt somewhat "held-back". But the stumbling was not as noticeable....After about 9-10 good pulls up and down the highway and slowly upping the pressure at each stop, I apparently reached the magic number. Ending fuel pressures:

With Vacuum Connected: 39psi
Without Vacuum Connected:49psi

I feel pretty safe with these numbers. A/F stayed around 11 +/-2 at WOT. Mostly on the richer side of 11.
Slightly more stalls due to BOV venting to Atmosphere and it is much richer than with the stock FPR. It was maxing fuel pressure with vacuum at 32psi. Definitely hid itself on the UEGO. Consult was no help either due to slow OTC Scanner . Unfortunately my ECU had no LED so codes were unattainable also. Keep in mind this engine is in stock form, with32K miles, FMIC, WALBRO, Z32 F/F and BKRE7's gapped at .28.

This may have seemed a little drawn out but I didn't want to be that guy who never posted his fix. I'm sure there is someone having a similar set of symptoms as mine and could be going crazy like me hno: :bang . Its forums like NICO that help us. Hope this helps also.
-end rant-

http://forums.nicoclub.com/sr-bogging-horribly-searched-to-no-avail-t541563.html


set my aeromotive FPR to 49psi vacuum disconnected and now everything is PERFECT.....


why did it have to be so easy. GRR. damn FWD SR FORUMS HAVE NO INFO, everywhere i read, they said 29-43 Psi disconnected. WRONG.

 

[Meunvmost]

so now im gonna put it on a friends CALI SNIFFER dyno and set my AFR to CALI SMOG regulations so it will pass, register it , then take it to Driven Authority get it Dyno tuned and MAKE IT TO WCMIV ? is it 4 or 5 i cant remember....

 

[Meunvmost]

also, yall will hate me, but i been thinking about finishing it up and selling it to fund a WRX STi or EVO. LOL

 

[Loek]

And all of that within 5 minutes...

LOL

 

[p10det]

Lol what was the fuel pressure set to? I usually set at 43.5 after I start tinkering with e85 this weekend are next I might do 4 bar. I heard a guy recommend it and ill see if its needed.

Lol funny though I though the first stuff everyone does is set tps I fuel pressure base timeing boostleak check yadayadayada. Anything that has to be set and can be ADjusted are usually most easy to check.

Well glad you have it. But again the o2 sensor thing you might if you haven't already get wired correctly.

 

[Meunvmost]

the FPR was set at 43 PSI with no vacuum connected, and when vacuum connected it dropped down to about 30 or so psi, so after reading that rant from the kid on nicoclub, i went out to the car, adjusted the FPR to 59 PSI w/ out vacuum, and noticed its at about 40 psi w/ vacuum on.... so somewhere along the line someone is missing a piece of information regarding how much psi to set it at with or without vacuum..


as far as the oxygen sensor im going to borrow my friends scope and see if its really working or if its dead or slow as far as the signal. and as far as the wiring i have no idea if its wired in correctly but seems to be working, no check engine light nothing odd at all. actually it runs pretty damn good.

i am for sure though going to Re-set the timing one more final time...


the other thing im finding is WHY does O'reilly, Autozone, Napa claim the gauge temp sensor is the same for all p10's???

i wanna say from 91-94.5 is a differant sensor then 94.5-96 p10's?

is this true, cuz currently my temp gauge does what it wants. is there a differance in resistance, similar to how 240sx's s13 is a lower resistance then a S14?